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Stevewren

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Everything posted by Stevewren

  1. Treat the games and the list building the same way you would in 40K - if you can play competitively there you will already be ahead of the curve when it comes to competing at AOS. A lot of the tactics are similar. You're list their is quite tame by the AoS tournament standards at the moment, but i can see that you have already realised that Sayle is required to actually be in the 'Chaos Club.' A list without Sayle the Compulsory really isn't even a list these days! Have fun developing the list, and good luck at Heat 3.
  2. I spent all of my Easter Holidays in 2014 painting my South Coast GT Empire army only to get pipped to the Best Army award by the POinthammered boys who swanned over from America for a jolly holiday. I watched all the West Wing and Buffy to get me through it all. Now with two kids I know I'll never be able to get that sort of time again, so my painting goals have changed to painting in a more economical fashion to get projects done faster.
  3. In terms improvements I think looking at the blight kings I'd like to see more variation across the armour plates so that there is darker to lighter shading. You could do it with some selective washing towards the undersides, or try and layer in a few more highlight layers. You could also be more daring with the highlights in places and push them a bit more so you get more contrast. You have some areas that nail this well, such as the horns on the Chaos Lord, but in other places the colours are a bit flat However the models themselves look great as they are. By pushing your skills a bit more you will have a really stand out army.
  4. Pretty much, yes. It only really works on the bigger models, although I did do something similar for the skin of the Marauders i am working on. I have an airbrush, but its not particularly reliable (i'm not sure I really treated it well in its early days) and the spray cans get things done so much quicker, but with a little less control. You have to expect that you will get overspray in areas and just work with it. I use the GW ones - they are the best, but I also use other brands for more colour variation, which can be risky. I sprayed up the third lord of change and the bright green i bought didn't give a very good coverage so this one will probably need a bit more work to tidy up. Its very much a rial and error approach, but on expensive models it can be a bit heart in the mouth!
  5. For my South Coast Army I needed Kairos to lead my troops. Although he has lost the ability to change the turn roll he is still a good leader. Once again the model was a real joy to put together. I tried to keep the staff separate this time to make sure that the painting was a bit easier this time. I sprayed the model Macragge Blue, then used a baby blue spray paint and some white from a can to pick out the chest and heads. I used spray cans for the purple on the wings and also to do the feet. This gives some nice gradients if you are careful, and means that the base coat is quite effective strength away. All I had to then was wash areas and dry brush and then pick out all the sharp points. However the areas like the gold and the staff took a lot longer than I thought this time. I think I spent five or six hours picking these all out and finishing them off over the last week. I now have two more to do for my trip to Portsmouth so I've got to keep going. The next one I think will be mostly green and purple! If you have any comments or questions let me know below.
  6. First of the Lords of Change completed. I've got the lord of change finished that I've been working on for the last couple of weeks. Couple of small conversions to change angles on the arms and neck, but otherwise its stock. Basecoating all done with spray cans which was a fun little experiment - just had to be careful when doing the purple on the wings and the legs. After that it's a lot of drybrush work. Some Sharpie highlighting too on the golds so that I could work away from the hobby desk. Base again is just playbark all drybrushed up and then some desert ? diorama tufts added. Overall happy for a speedy (relatively speaking) job The wings take a dry brush really well which is great, so you can layer on a lot of different colours to give the model a real Tzeentch feel without being too over the top. I was quite conscious about not making it too much of a rainbow model, so the palette is fairly limited to the red with a lot of purple and blue/teal for the details. I also didn't go round picking out too many of the gems etc as I need the models done (the best colour of all, or so i've heard!)
  7. Welcome to the blogging club! You have some great looking models there too. Keep us updated of how the games and modelling are going.
  8. I can get behind that wooden shield design on the Stormcast dude!
  9. love the old school catapults! They bring back some memories!
  10. Thats a great looking book. One thing I didn't quite get from the show though - Its official GW approved right....? (How funny am I....?)
  11. Stevewren

    Adepticon

    Congratulations on getting the army completed and best of luck at Adoption. For me the painting lacks a nice focal colour. Its all a bit too monotone. When you look at some of the best Sylvaneth colour schemes they have a nice, usually bright, contrasting colour that brings the army to life. Against the browns and greens which are very neutral colours you can pick pretty much any colour, but creams, bright blues and purples or orange are all solid choices. You can pick out the weapons, staffs and faces, the hair on the revenants etc and it will elevate the army to a new level for not much effort.
  12. I'd take both. You cannot underestimate the amount of hold up power the pink/blue/brimstone combination has, but you also need the hitting power that the Tzangor unit provides.
  13. I really like the Rolling Bad Podcast - its my favourite of the new breed that you have identified above. I'd also recommend Bad Dice, although the hosts are a bit slack when it comes to recording regularly!
  14. This is the current state of my Lord of Change, I have chosen a very different colour scheme that will match some of the details on the next lot of Marauders. I started with a Mephiston Red undercoat and then sprayed on the purple to the wing tips and the feet using a spray can rather than trying to blend it or worry about the airbrush. This made the initial base coat a lot faster to do. The details were dry brushed up with wild rider red and Kislev flesh on the red which works nicely as a top highlight. My intention was to go in and highlight the face carefully as this will be the stand out part of the mode. There doesn't seem to be any real benefit in terms of time vs quality achieved to highlight all the individual feathers, although I have gone round the wing tips with Palyd Which Flesh to give a nice bright highlight on the edges of the purple. I am currently working through the gold and the blue armour and I have been using the Duncan video to try and see how it turns out. I am currently pretty happy with the whole thing. The only thing that I am really not a fan of is trying to paint the tabard as the detail is quite flat and the complexity of the folds and position makes this a very tricky piece to paint with any real quality. Fortunately it is hidden away and will probably not be that visible on the final model when it is based. Overall I think this is a great model and its been a lot of fun to paint so far.
  15. I'm a big fan of this little army. Really great use of the Eternal Guard parts. And I like the basing scheme - its very different from the usual schemes that you see which normally have a lot more of a woodland feel. Great job
  16. To complete my Tzeentch army I have started putting together some Tzeentch magical terrain that will go along with it. To start with I have done a couple of large line of sight blocking pieces. I wanted something warped and un natural looking and I was fortunate enough to find a couple of fish tank items that I thought would work well. I didn't do anything much too them. I cut the bases from MDF and then glued the two pieces down using Mitrebond. I then used a lot of filler to go round the edges and blend the base and the rock together. Once dry I then sanded the base. To paint them I just used spray paints. I gave them a coat of macragge blue, then baby blue, then white. I tried to aim the second two sprays so they just catch the edges to try and vary the tones. Once these were done I used a brown spray and sprayed the sand. I'm not bothered about the brown going on to the blue as this just helps blend the two together. Once dry I used Agrellan Earth on the base pieces where the sand had missed. I washed this with Seraphin Sepia and then dry brushed the whole thing with Terminatus stone and a little Wrack White on to the blue areas.
  17. Haha! No problem with that - I think basing is one of my favourite things to do.
  18. Earlier on I posted an image of the original Skyfire model I painted. I have finished the Shaman to go with them now as well. This was a super cool model to paint. Came together really quickly and I was really happy with it. I cut a few corners to speed up the painting so areas like the robes are just the undercoat with no touch ups, just a few edge highlights, and there are a lot of areas that are deliberately not painted (under the disc, underside of the robes etc. As this is a relatively quick gaming army I am trying not to get caught up on all the details, but I still want it to look neat and tidy. One of the things I did was to paint the disc in sections this time which was an awful lot faster and easier than trying to paint them once they were all glued together. I enjoyed using one of the Shattered Dominion Hero bases for it as well as I have a few still lying around. I am most pleased with the feathers on this guy. I think they came out really well and hopefully it can be utilised on the Lord of Change which is up next...
  19. To fit into my budget of Sigmar army I had to do a conversion of some sort on this model. I chose to create my own Shrinemaster figure. I took some of the leftover parts of one of the Maggoth lords as the top half. I glued some plastic sprue inside the body to act as a support post. I then cut the Shrinemaster figure in half and glued the pillar to his waist. The Maggoth Lord top half was quite a bit wider so I had to green stuff some more skin around the join to merge them all together, but I am happy with the result. For the painting I just used the usual Nurgle colour scheme of Greens and Purples. I was pleased with the metals on this as well. Once he was finished I just superglued him down. With hindsight I should have made him removable so that I could use different sorcerers on top, but that is a lesson for another day!
  20. Stevewren

    Brutes

    Your light box is clearly working well. The pictures are good quality. I have a couple of things that you might want to think about. Firstly the Add Boy with the black on it doesn't really go with the Brutes. The Brutes have not got any of the black on them, and I would say they have too much red on them. I'd have been inclined to go in with more of the black on the armor. Also are the weapons supposed to have blood on them? At the moment they look like red painted weapons. If they are blood I would have slightly less on them. Keep working on the army though - it will serve you well, and keep posting pictures too!
  21. I was going for emphasising different areas. I left the skull darker as it was towards the edge of the base.
  22. I love this 1000 point army challenge idea. And these don'd disappoint. What a great looking force. Cant wait to see what else you do.
  23. The skin is mourning brown spray, then Zandri dust spray over the top. I then wash the skin with reikland flesh shade all over. I tend to go in and add more shade into the really recessed areas. Its very quick and I dont highlight at all. However some of the models just get missed with the Zandri dice which is why they are so dark. Im not overly bothered as they are only the battle line models. If i get time before this years south coast GT I'll look at adding in highlights on any facial features.
  24. For my Tzeentch force I need some foot troops. The cheapest battle line in the warriors army are Chaos Marauders at only 60 points for 10 models. However there are a couple of problems. Firstly, the models are really old, very poorly posed and they have a whole load of annoying mould lines. Secondly they are very much of the Old World frozen north aesthetic with the cloaks and beards. All the new Tzeentch models have a very different feel to them. So what is the solution? Clearly to do a ridiculous amount of conversion work on foot troops no one will pay any attention too! I decided that the basis of the conversion would be a box of Kairic Acolytes. I also had 15 of the silver tower Acolytes which add some variation. The heads were taken from all the blood reavers that I had left over from the starter set that I haven't done anything with. I chose all the ones with helmets as I decided these guys would be trying to emulate the Acolytes by hiding their faces, but without the magic they had to settle for the normal versions. When I ran out of heads I started raising my bits box and was able to use some Maruader heads as well as taking a gamble that Space Marine heads would also look OK. Weapons and shields came from the Tzangor kit as well as the Marauder kit. Sticking everything together was pretty easy, but if you want to do this conversion then the neck needs some work as the acolyte heads kind of fit on the front. If you try and stick a normal head on then it looks down at the feet, so the neck area has to be cut and trimmed down, but its not overly complicated. Painting was the usual Tzeentch base coat of brown, and all the armour this time is blue. As ever edging all the gold is the really time consuming stuff, but I have got 10 done so far out of the 30 that i need. As always let me know what you think in the comments below.
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