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Nin Win

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Nin Win last won the day on September 14 2018

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488 Celestant-Prime


About Nin Win

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    Dracothian Guard

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  1. I put Reaper and Army Painter at the top of my list of paints to recommend for anyone who just wants to paint miniatures for gaming. Reaper has free shipping to North America at a really low minimum. One of the reasons I like Reaper is have some of the very first Master Series paints ever made from the very late 90s and early 2000s and they are totally and completely fine. The only thing I don't like about them is their new labels are ****** and the names of the paint can rub off too easily. I've taken to putting a ring of clear tape around every bottle as soon as I get it. Army Painter has a glob of medium on top of their paint so you have to shake them like mad. I've taken to adding 10 drops of water and flow improver and an agitator as soon as I get them. I'd also recommend P3 and Coat D'Arms but lately I've been transferring mine into dropper bottles.
  2. For some a bottle of contrast paint will replace buying a base paint, a shade and a layer. For those people the high price will be worth it. For those of us with a good paint collection already and who already can paint reasonably quickly, less so. My hunch is that the contrast medium is a special combination of flow improver, floating medium and drying retarder. When they cautioned about adding too much water giving tide marks, I was like "that's the same thing decorative painters say about float glazing. Hmmm..." and as well the nature of float medium in terms of being smooth and liquidy without being runny so you can use it on vertical surfaces sounds a lot like contrast paint largely staying put compared to shades that run and pool more. I'd be interested in checking out whether or not something like folk art float medium could be substituted for the contrast medium. I think I'll grab some the next time I'm in Michael's. One of my gaming buddies plans on getting at least a handful of contrast colours as well as the contrast medium, so I'll be able to compare at one of our regular painting nights.
  3. From Pete the Wargamer: Contrast over zenithal priming of wraithbone over black. You can really see the grey and black through the contrast paint. I like it, but some will find it too dirty looking. I bet you could zenithal prime white/wraithbone/greyseer over a dark brick red or a dark purple instead of black and then contrast the red over that. Full video:
  4. So on their citadelcolour.com website they have a video on going from "battle ready" to "parade ready" with a drybrush followed by an edge highlight. Might I suggest an alternate/supplemental process. Do all the battle ready stuff with contrast and then take a shade (nuln oil or agrax are likely your best bets) and recess shade wherever one colour meets another. You might find it useful to keep a small drybrush nearby and feather away any mistakes as soon as you make them. Then do the drybrush and edge highlight if you still want to. I'm also thinking block painting with contrast and then varnish and then an oil or enamel wash and cleanup like scale modellers do might be pretty amazing if you're willing to put up with the drying time.
  5. If you're going to cut your own definitely also get a file and make sure none of it is sharp.
  6. I've left miniatures sitting in LA's Awesome for weeks and they never melted. Do you mean the acrylic ooze was from paint? As for your first point, I think that might be the thing I need to think about. There might be some issues with damage from assembly and storage.
  7. I'm thinking about buying some nighthaunt from a friend, but I'm worried about how their fragile and spindly nature will come into play with the stripping process. I usually strip models by putting them in an appropriate cleaner (LA's Awesome, Simple Green or Superclean or something like that) and then taking a toothbrush to them. Is this going to result in a lot of broken models? Will there be paint I can't get at in the inside of the more hollow ones? Am I going to be taking forever to get the paint off of them, having to hold each of them super carefully to not break things?
  8. AoS2 has been pushing more and more of a faction's special abilities and flavour into allegiance abilities, command traits, artefacts, battle traits and so on. Much like how in 40k the stratagems can contain a lot of the theme of the army. Or the tactics or whatever the equivalent is called in Killteam Skirmish not having those except for the grand alliances definitely stands out a lot more than it did when the first skirmish book came out. And since we like those elements we end up having to house rule and tweak and whatnot to get them to work. In the end we decided that the flavour and fun of the allegiance abilities was more important than the individual model activation and low model count of skirmish and we just sort of stopped playing skirmish. Like Kill Team, skirmish needs faction specific elements rather than just grand alliance based elements.
  9. Winnipeg - There's a GW store that is actually a decent size with more than one table for customer use and is usually busy on Saturdays. GameKnight has tons of table space and terrain and on Fridays they are open til midnight. On Facebook there's a Winnipeg War Council group that has a monthly thing as well as running AoS "Bunker Buster" events that are capped at 12 participants. There's also a group of us that mostly do Narrative/Open at people's houses. A friend rents out the multi purpose room in his building once a month for some gaming. PM me if anyone ever wants details on that sort of thing.
  10. Dark Crystal is so good. Maybe my tzeentch beasts of chaos need some skeksis as great brey shamans. I wonder what the size of the board game miniatures are?
  11. The scenarios in the january edition are good. I like the smaller table size a lot. The biggest issue our group keeps having though is that so much of the flavour of a given army is in their battletome traits and whatnot and none of that is used. We've been using it and trying out interpret it all on a case by case basis and make it all work, but it's been rough. Basically for anything that talks about unit or whatever we've been basing it on the standard bearer and doing the 6" thing. It mostly works but some stuff doesn't really. We're probably going to transition more to the full game with the AoS:Warbands rules (here on TGA, link below) which reduces the minimum unit size. If GW comes out with more in the future we'll look into it, but for now we're going to go a bit larger and play with units.
  12. No, but most dedicated skirmish games would probably work better for tiny games than AoS Skirmish (I'm not saying AoS Skirmish is bad, it's just forcing a non skirmish game super small). It'll be a different experience and you'll have to do some conversion work. Some armies will need real thought as Frastgrave assumes a wizard is leading the warbands, right?
  13. We're starting a new skirmish grow-league on the 26th. We were contemplating moving towards a Path to Glory campaign after that, but I think Warbands will be a better place to go after that. Last year we ran a skirmish grow league and transitioned right into the big game and it was a bit jarring as people had lots of one-ofs and two-ofs and they suddenly needed to paint 8 or 9 more. Going to five will be much better.
  14. I actually bought the Nightvault core set to split with a friend who wanted the Briar Queen (I wanted the 4th and 5th Evocator to make a full unit with the 3 that came in Soul Wars and another Knight-Incantor for the battalion in the Stormcast battletome). So far I've played the game about 6 times and it's good. I can already see though that if you have a large card pool and build a tuned deck it will be stronger than just trying out the cards that come with each warband. I was pleasantly surprised overall though. I've heard good things about the products from Gamemat.eu -- I live in Canada though so I've never seen them myself.
  15. I think you're better off with skirmish than path to glory. Path to glory seems like it should be a great way to play with small armies but then when you add in the random tables it actually takes a huge collection to play as intended. It works fine playing with just using what you have, but it definitely misses something when you can't do the random army building. I really think Path to Glory is best for people with very large collections. Getting into terrain building and making your own playing surface and ruins and whatnot to fight over is also fun. There are millions of youtube videos on this. I recently made a skirmish mat by soaking watered down cheap interior paint into a microfibre blanket. I taped garbage bags down on the table to protect it. It took a day to dry but the end result is a nice stiff mat that looks like grass. I'll probably make another with brown or grey or both at some point. I also totally agree that they should make a starter set for skirmish designed that way from the ground up. GW wants people to play the larger game with bigger armies to sell more models though. So even Storm Strike, which is a far better match with Skirmish, assumes you'll be using the full sized game. If you're going with Skirmish as your main way to play you're probably not going to need to get the battletome books for either stormcast or nighthaunt and you have a wider array of miniatures to choose from as you can add any Order or Death forces to your collecting if you like the look of them. There are a variety of Easy to Build boxes that are the miniatures from the Shadespire/Nightvault boardgame. Steelheart's Champions, The Farstriders and Deathrattle Sepulchral Guard. You might want to consider them as a way to get a few Liberators or a few Skeletons or whatever. They can be run as a character unit with its own warscroll that you can find on the product page or in the AoS app. Or they can just be run as the generic types.
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