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Found 11 results

  1. I'm feeling a bit bored of Green... so I'm looking for some ideas and colors (GW or Vallejo) to do a non-green Orruk/IronJaws skin color scheme. Some of the ideas I had were doing them in an orange'ish theme or doing them in a sand-skin theme. I've attached two pictures below and was hoping for some thoughts on how to achieve these results or if anyone has any other color ideas! Thanks and I appreciate everyone reading my first Topic Post! Geoff
  2. Hello! I'm using Contrast heavily to paint the Untamed Beasts from Warcry. I plan to do highlights and touchup with classic paints after the contrast. I'd like to varnish after the contrast is done to give me a stopping point so I can play with them while not worrying about the Contrast rubbing off. Is it possible to paint on top of the varnish (munitorium spray) using the regular citadel paints? Thank you for your help!
  3. Gallery of all the paints on Savage Orruks and Scuttlings, plus some early tests: https://imgur.com/gallery/fZMKNVS What is contrast? My guess is ink plus flow-air and some matte medium. What is it good for? Pretty much anything organic and natural like flesh, fur, hair, leather, wood, stone... Contrast it pretty good at reproducing the chaotic texture of these materials. It's also a very good airbrush paint, better than the Citadel Air range in general. I'm pretty sure they can be used as a precise wash, but I haven't tested that yet. What is it NOT good for? Metal and armors in general, any large flat surface. There's not metallic contrast paint, although I guess you could use it as a quick base for NMM. Armor usually need a pretty even coat of paint too look good, and Contrast will pool in the middle of large flat surface, not unlike Citadel Washes "coffee stain", although the pooling doesn't look as bad as the coffee stain. Methodology: All the models were primed with Vallejo Surface Primer White with an airbursh. Contrast was applied with a Citadel medium wash brush, undiluted, with one thin-ish coat. The top paint is on the right, the bottom paint is on the left. I know it feels backward. I listed the closest color in the rest of the Citadel range under every image, but many of the Contrasts are more saturated than their base/layer counterpart. Conclusions: Contrast stains. It stains your fingers (and your cloths) much more than normal paint. Don't drop a bottle. Contrast runs, A LOT. The "One Thick Coat" motto only works if you cover the whole model because it will run everywhere. If you just want to cover a specific area of the model, go Duncan (two thin coats). You can see in the second picture that I used a bit too much Magos Purple and it ran down the legs on it's own. I had a similar problem in the Contrast medium + ink test. Not all Contrast paints are "born" equal. Maybe half of the paints are rather light and will let the color underneath show through, the other half is pretty opaque and the color underneath will only dictate the lightness of the final result. The lighter paints could be combine with a non-white undercoat and act more as a filter(a color-shifting paint). Some paints, notably the light ones, would probably look better with the new Grey Seer and Wraithbone, notably the flesh tones. But I wantedd a neutral test first. Contrast work really well with an airbrush without any thinner. The thick ink consistency is just perfect. You CAN get the pooling in the recess effect if you overspray. With an airbrush you usually don't want any pooling, just a very light coat, but with Contrast the overspray will act a bit like a wash, although not as much as when it's applied with a brush. The ink will also tint the flat surface more than with a brush. If you hate Citadel Pots, take your sprue cutter and cut the plastic hinge to free the lid. The lid floating above the pot is a large factor in the instability of the pot and the pooling of paint on its side. You can also get bottle holders for like 3$. For airbrush, get a bunch of plastic pipettes.
  4. Hello! I am relatively new to this whole miniature thing. I picked up some Khorne and have started to paint my horde of half naked dudes. So far I have stuck with a very basic paint scheme, khorne red, retributor gold, leadbealcher, rakarth flesh, and black. All shaded with riekland fleshshade. I just bought some evil sunz scarlet for edge highlights, but when I used it, my armor just looks like it has orange dots on it. How do I use edge highlights? Sorry about the bad images, I took these with my phone picture 1- my best model, Gary, the Exalted Deathbringer pictures 2 and 3- bad edges, number 3 is a wip
  5. Hey guys I really enjoyed painting however now I have managed to collect quite a number of paint pots. It’s become a hassle to be able to dig through and find the paints that I wants as they are all in a very useful box at the moment. It’s become a hassle to be able to dig through and find the paints that I want as they are all in a very useful box at the moment. What solutions do you guys have for storing your paints I’ve seen some really cool things like wall mounted stuff etc. One issue for me is that I rent and I only have a one bed flat so space is at a minimum. It would be ideal to be able to have something that I can store away?
  6. Hey all Ive been following the Mind of Mengel series on the Warhammer community page and love the shortcut he uses to quickly paint skin. https://www.warhammer-community.com/2017/09/29/witch-aelves-made-easygw-homepage-post-3/ key to this is the light grey corax white. I was wondering if anyone has found a paint that is pretty much a corax White colour match?? As it would be great to have to option of airbrushing when I want to.
  7. Hey fellow Maggotkin! I (almost entirely) finished painting my first model! This Putrid Blightking is lacking a base banner color and a satin varnish, but beyond that he's basically done! I think I'll go back and touch up his apron when I paint the other PBKs, though. Feel free to ask any questions about the paint job or basing. I learned a great technique from my local GW manager: to get cork board edges to firm up and look less jagged, apply PVA glue to the edges. For the list, this one utilizes a Beastmen battalion: Leaders: Great Unclean One: General, Tome of a Thousand Poxes, Grandfather's Blessing, Favoured Poxes, Blade and Bell configuration Lord of Blights: Rustfang Festus the Leechlord: Blades of Putrefaction Great Bray-Shaman Battlelines: Ungors x10 Ungors x10 Ungors x10 Putrid Blightkings x10 Other Units: Centigors x20 5x Tuskgor Chariots x1 Endless Spells: Soulsnare Shackles Battalions: Pestilent Throng The strategy this list employs involves sending the Centigors and chariots flying across the battlefield on turn 1, pinning the opponent in his or her deployment zone while your army takes up advantageous positions. When near the GUO and GB-S, the beastmen units get +6" to their movement, meaning the chariots will move 16" and the Centigors will move 20". The latter can run and charge natively, and the former can use the Feculent Gnarlmaw, since the battalion gives them the Nurgle keyword. The other gift it provides is that, upon death, all the beastmen in this list will "explode" on a 2+, dealing one mortal wound to all enemy units within 7". So after pinning the opponent in place early, the chariots will splatter a MW over hopefully a few units. The Centigors have an ability that gives them +1 to hit in exchange for being +1 to hit for opponents. The downside of that can be addressed by the Lord of Blight's command ability. If BoP goes off, they do MWs on 5+ with 4 attacks each, for a total of 81 attacks that reroll wounds on a turn in which they charged, likely wiping out whatever they hit. The Ungors are 60 pts for a unit of 10 and are needed for the battalion; they just try to screen and be annoying.  The GB-S can use his Devolve spell to move enemy units out of cover and into combat, if desired. The Blight Kings and LoB move into the thick of things and contest for central objectives. Let me know what you think of the list and the painted up PBK! Next time I'll offer up another competitive list and hopefully some more pictures of the rest of the unit.
  8. Hi all, I am taking part in the Fate of Sigmar Narrative event next year and I will be taking Warherd. However I think I need some help in turning concepts into a paint scheme. My main idea is an 'Ulgu' Warherd, so dark neutral colours that represent a Herd who have become one with this shadow land. Any ideas for an Ulgu paint scheme? Secondary is a God-dedicated Herd, Slaneesh with pinkish skin that isn't too much. Any ideas for colours or schemes would be much appreciated. G
  9. Hey all. I am looking for suggestions for a paint color for a project. I am painting some FEC Flayers and am going for a rosy, pick flesh tone for the wings. I have not been happy with any of the GW colors and have not been able to mix up something with the GW paints. Does anyone have any suggestions, either of color mixes or tones from other lines? Thanks in advance for any input.
  10. can anyone tell if this edge highlight colour Dechala Lilac fits in with warpfiend grey / slannesh grey . I need one stage lighter of slannesh grey without going to fair. No store stocks this paint so I cannot have a look
  11. Here is a prototype that I finished. Thanks to Kieran Robinson for the inspiration. I have never been a fan of the red and gold trimmed Armour and thought the design was a little over the top. This color scheme brings that down to earth a bit. This was also my first time using Blood for the Blood God. I think this scheme will be solely for my blood warriors. What do you guys and gals think of it?
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