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The Painting Contract - July 2020


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4 minutes ago, TheOtherJosh said:

Okay ... that cobblestone base idea is pretty sweet ... are they just clipped plasticard?

Just some Greenstuff World bricks, with some bigger plastic blocks mixed in for variety (I cut some extra Greenstuff World plastic tombstones up for these).

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I am working through Star Wars Rebellion and hope to have the Imperials completed in July plus make a start on the Rebels. So far I have painted 30 storm troopers, 24 tie fighters, 4 at at and 10 at at. Next up are 8 Gozanti assault carriers.

Its not AoS so I won’t spam pics, but enjoy this tie fighter

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2 hours ago, Kramer said:

Nice! Where they fun to build? 

Overall, yes!!

Assembling the first ones was kind of challenging for either kit. But once I got the hang of it, it turned out to actually be pretty fun :). I guess my fingers are already used to handling fragile Idoneth, so that factor wasn't  too much of an issue, haha!

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Some progress! These dryad models are a massive pain to build. So many parts of them needed cleaning. However, they are now, built based and the first few stages of paint are on them. Last picture is the test for how I am hoping they will turn out. I decided to use 2 different darker bark colours to add a little variety in the painting process. 

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I've made good progress, so I figured I'd give a mid-month-ish update, as well as sharing some stuff from last months contract that I couldn't post because I had trouble with my account.

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So the last time me and my uncle had an epic warhammer smackdown, he gave me one of his extra 105mm x 70mm oval bases to proxy one of my Judgements of Khorne with, but once I finally got the Judgements themselves, I didn't need this base anymore to proxy with. He said I could keep it though, so I figured I should make something cool with it (make lemonade out of lemons, I guess).My dad had some foam lying around, so I decided to try and see if I could sculpt something cool. Unfortunately, it wasn't XPS, so I had to make something ruined-ish so I didn't look like an idiot who can't cut a straight line with an X-acto knife. So I grabbed a cork board and slapped this together. I found it was a nice excuse to try out my green glow for my OBR army and perfect my lava flow (more on that stuff later). 

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If you've been following my painting contract shenanigan's for any length of time, you probably know I love applying ridiculous amounts of Blood for the Blood God on anything I can, and this was no exception. It was a bit tedious, given that there were a ridiculous amount of small detail around the rim of the Icon (I forget the exact number but it's something like 20 black rocks, 36 skulls and 41 spikes, so I eventually decided to spare my sanity and just cover everything in Blood for the Blood God. It looks a little too glossy in the picture, but that's just the lighting of my painting area lamp.

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This is the Slaughterpriest I painted, he looked a little to glossy around his horn things, so I used some Lahmium Medium mixed 1:1 with water to tone down the glossiness, I also added more contrast to his face, it looked to dark at first. Alright, that was the stuff I did in June, on to July!

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I wasn't going to get and paint a Gothizarr Harvester until my Deathriders and Boneshapers arrived, but when I saw it at my LFGS, I just couldn't resist. Instead of painting him in the usual OBR way, I decided to make my life way easier and (in my opinion) the model way cooler by painting it as an epic magical statue. I pretty much followed Citadel's statue army painting tutorial to do this, but with a few changes. Here's the link if you want to watch it:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLrokQOl4iU. For the changes I made, after I primed the mini, I decided to try for a crackle effect, so I used some audacious tricks to get MASSIVE cracks. The first step is to basecoat the area you want to put the crackle effect on with 'Arcoat (after you've primed obviously) this allows the crackle paint something to grab onto to get bigger cracks. Once that has dried, apply a VERY thick layer of Mordant Earth and use a hair dryer to dry it quicker and get even BIGGER cracks. Then you can paint over that with Mechanicus standard grey. I focused on giving the armour and cracked spots a different feel than the rest of the mini, so I used Rakarth Flesh most heavily on those areas. Because my model is from a volcanic ,lava filled wasteland, I figured using Athonian Camoshade to get a mossy effect would be stupid, so instead I did an all over wash of Nuln Oil and then I applied Agrax earthshade on the armor and cracks as well as in spots where I though grime would collect. Unlike in the video tutorial, I very obviously did not do a blue glow. Instead I went for a mystical green, which is really easy to pull off. To start, you basecoat the source of the light in White Scar, then  drybrush White Scar around the area of the light, we're aiming for an OSL effect here, so be smart. Then you apply Hexwraith Flame over all the areas with white on them and a little past them as well. How many coats you apply is up to you, but I prefer to get a pretty solid green, so like 3-4 coats. Once the Hexwraith Flame has dried, drybrush the source of the light and a small area around it with White Scar and then boom. You're done. The most important part about this effect is that you should try and be clean, not sloppy (unlike me). For the base, I decided a Lava Base would contrast nicely with the greens and grey of the model. I grabbed some cork board and fashioned a little archway thing for my model to stand on. For the lava, I applied Stirland Battlemire all over the base where I wanted the lava and let it completely dry. Once that was done, I primed the whole base with Chaos Black (You're going to want to assemble the model separately from the base or use masking tape or something otherwise you'll be sad. After that, drybrush the lava flow and the area on the cork board closest to the lava with white. This lets the bright colors of the lava and its glow go on easier and really pop. After that, base the Lava flow with Mephiston Red. Then drybrush the lava flow with Evil Sun Scarlet, Troll Slayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Wraithbone and White Scar, building the effect up so that the lava is brighter the farther away it is from the cork. Once that is done, drybrush Evil Sun Scarlet and Troll Slayer Orange over the areas on the cork that you drybrushed with White. I also did this thing on the Harvesters legs where I used Citadels tutorial for the Cracked Earth Environment of Vigilus to get a cool blend from the lava to stone. You can see it on the feet if you zoom in. Here's the link if you want to see it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBjydzj9c1g. After that, pin the model to your base and you're done! (I probably went WAY too overboard with the typing for this one, oh well)

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At last, the coup de grâce, my crown jewel, my pièce de résistance, the Skull Altar! After way to many days of work is finally done. It's so cool it deserves not 1, but 2 pictures. I made the skulls on the rim glowy to match my fire demon theme and applied a ridiculous amount of Blood for the Blood God (no surprise there) I did my usual paint-flicking motion to get some nice streaks, used an old piece of squishy foam to get some blood spots, and I got some nice splotches by putting some Blood for the Blood God on a brush with long bristels and flicking it against the Citadel Texture tool in the direction of the model. While painting it, I noticed that paint was rubbing off on the pointy bits of the model, specifically the corners of the model on the  ground and some of the spikes, so I applied 'Ardcoat on those spots as well as on the whole bottom edge of the model. I then went over it with Lahmium Medium to get rid of the gloss. I call it the poor man's varnish, but it's a nice trick if you don't want to deal with varnishing.

Whew. It's been an exhausting last couple of weeks, but I've finished most of my bigger models, so my progress should start to get faster. as I burn through smaller models. As always, if you guys have any questions, comments or suggestions, feel free to say something. Thanks guys!

 

 

Edited by ogarrah
Typo's. I can't stand them.
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Haven't had much time to paint the last 2 weeks, but made some progress tonight: progress made on 4 blightkings and some tests done on a pusgoyle blightlord.

So, looking for some feedback on the colour scheme; middle leg painted as a trial for the body of the fly. Does it work or does it look off? 

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Then I drybrushed the wing, blending from green to white, but maybe using the khaki colour of the body as the darkest colour would tie  the model together better?

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Thanks for any feedback 😊

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51 minutes ago, MarkK said:

Haven't had much time to paint the last 2 weeks, but made some progress tonight: progress made on 4 blightkings and some tests done on a pusgoyle blightlord.

So, looking for some feedback on the colour scheme; middle leg painted as a trial for the body of the fly. Does it work or does it look off? 

 

Then I drybrushed the wing, blending from green to white, but maybe using the khaki colour of the body as the darkest colour would tie  the model together better?

 

Thanks for any feedback 😊

Yeah I think the color on the leg will "fly" (ha ha get it.... *sigh* I'm a disgrace) I think it'll look fine.

 

I definitely think you should have the khaki color as the darkest color on the wing. Also that is a ridiculously smooth blend if you're drybrushing it like you say. Teach me your ways!

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40 minutes ago, ogarrah said:

Yeah I think the color on the leg will "fly" (ha ha get it.... *sigh* I'm a disgrace) I think it'll look fine.

 

I definitely think you should have the khaki color as the darkest color on the wing. Also that is a ridiculously smooth blend if you're drybrushing it like you say. Teach me your ways!

Thanks, wasn't sure myself!

Ya, I thought that just as I was finished.

I have to credit the Artis Opus videos on Youtube, great tutorials. Basically don't wash the brush until done, keep it slightly damp to stop it looking dusty and use different movements of the brush, eg swirling, stippling and buffing to tie colours together.

This was my first time actually trying it, so definitely impressed with how fast and easy it was, took about 10 minutes with a big wash brush

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