GutZilla Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Hey guys. I recently painted up 4 finecast models, and I thought I had washed them thoroughly, but it doesn't look like it was good enough. I primed the models with vallejo polyurethane brown green primer ( I use a brush to paint it on), let it set for 24 hours, and then started painting. After the basecoat and the first wash, I noticed that I was able to, on certain parts, scrape away the paint and primer right down to the finecast. I didn't really know what to do, so I just finished painting the models. The paint isn't just falling off the models, but if I take my nail and scrape I can tear pieces off. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? I won't do it intentionally, but I can imagine that the wear and tear of gaming and transport will eventually lead to chips. Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kramer Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 I think that’s not totally avoidable with dinecast. Scraping it with a nail etc will just take it off. But giving it a hard coat to seal it does help. But if somebody has a better solution I’m all ears 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutZilla Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Darn , so this happens to you to? Is it just a fault of finecast? Thank god those were my only finecast models to paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucio Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 It's not the right primer is the issue. It's designed for acrylic surfaces, not resin. Try a spray primer, they usually work a lot better on the resin models, finecast or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schwabbele Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 Hmm I recently had a few minis primed via airbrush / vallejo black primer instead of GW spray cans -> was also able to scrap the primer of with my fingernails. From what I was able to google that seems to be normal? I think I will use a matt varnish on them for added "protection" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutZilla Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Really? It lists that it can be used for resin on the bottle. Unfortunately it’s the dead of winter here, and I can’t spray prime until the weather gets better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sorokyl Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 my tip would be: Don't scrape the paint off your models with your fingernail. Seriously... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutZilla Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 42 minutes ago, sorokyl said: my tip would be: Don't scrape the paint off your models with your fingernail. Seriously... Thanks for the helpful comment! I’ll totally consider that!! You’re a genius! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitGas Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 The Vallejo PU primers are IMO pure trash, sorry to drop the bomb. Either go for Stynylrez (that is pretty durable, not as durable as spray-painted primer as it doesn't etch itself into the mini but pretty damn strong - very hard/impossible to scrape it with a nail... ) or one of the finer spraycans. But if you plan to play with them, I'd always give the mini a quick coat with a spraycan - at least the main surfaces and edges should be sprayed, other detail doesn't need to be too durable and could just be covered with some airbrush primer. Then you get an amazingly smooth paintjob that is really durable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutZilla Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 9 hours ago, MitGas said: The Vallejo PU primers are IMO pure trash, sorry to drop the bomb. Either go for Stynylrez (that is pretty durable, not as durable as spray-painted primer as it doesn't etch itself into the mini but pretty damn strong - very hard/impossible to scrape it with a nail... ) or one of the finer spraycans. But if you plan to play with them, I'd always give the mini a quick coat with a spraycan - at least the main surfaces and edges should be sprayed, other detail doesn't need to be too durable and could just be covered with some airbrush primer. Then you get an amazingly smooth paintjob that is really durable. Thank you, I’ll look into that primer going forward. Do you know if it is possible to cover the models that I have painted with a clear coat of some sort to harden them up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verengard Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Did you wash the models before priming ? Finecast (and most resin models) have mould release agents on which prevents paint from sticking well. Water + soap does the trick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitGas Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 54 minutes ago, GutZilla said: Thank you, I’ll look into that primer going forward. Do you know if it is possible to cover the models that I have painted with a clear coat of some sort to harden them up? Clearcoat (and time! Usually the primer gets stronger after some time) helps but I fear that you'll have to be careful with them - at least that is my experience. (oh and I washed all my models before priming - resin, finecast, plastic...). I've got no idea why some claim that the Vallejo primers are any good, really. Everyone I personally know that has tried them had nothing but problems with them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckecheese Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 I lived in Minnesota for a decade, so potential aerosol days were very limited. I recommend Gesso for brush on primer. And liquitex brush on varnishes for finish coat. They work great indoors and humidity doesn't seem to matter. The combo makes for some pretty tough paint jobs even on metal, resin, whatever finecast is etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eevika Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 33 minutes ago, chuckecheese said: I lived in Minnesota for a decade, so potential aerosol days were very limited. I recommend Gesso for brush on primer. And liquitex brush on varnishes for finish coat. They work great indoors and humidity doesn't seem to matter. The combo makes for some pretty tough paint jobs even on metal, resin, whatever finecast is etc. Miniac tested this and wearther had almost no effect. I live in Finland and have sprayed minis in -30c. Anyways having only painted two finecast minis that were both old manglers I can say that a good spray primer will stay on. Finecast holds paint way better than metal and metal minis have been painted for ages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckecheese Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Interesting. Mine always were super smelly when I tried that and brought them inside. It still sprayed, but they never seemed to cure outside in humid or cold weather. Good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyriakin Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 23 hours ago, schwabbele said: Hmm I recently had a few minis primed via airbrush / vallejo black primer instead of GW spray cans -> was also able to scrap the primer of with my fingernails. From what I was able to google that seems to be normal? I think I will use a matt varnish on them for added "protection" I found that Vallejo airbrush primer always just scraped off - be it on plastic, resin or metal. Even a vigourous drybrush could remove it. To be honest, I find only the rattle cans (Halfords, GW, Tamiya, etc.) truely work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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