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Practical help - case for miniatures


J.Z.

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Good morning Alliance!
I had spend some time looking for a case to storage my miniatures.
I got a army of Stormcast Eternals (for now only Vanguard of 1000p ) and Khorne Bloodbound (over 1250p with lots of Bloodreavers) + 3 different Warbands for skirmish (ranging from 5 to 18 minis). Now, I know i wont be ablle to put all of this in single case but i would be happy if i could have at least 1 2000p army in a case or ideally both armies in one case. 
That is why i writing. Do you have any advice what case should I choose?? There are plenty out there and for somebody new to the hobby it's a little confusing. I was thinking about Citadel Battle Case but....

Cheers
 

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There are a number of homemade options it really depends on your space availability. How well protected you want the models and how you store them when you not using them.

I have two ways. Don't have any pics on me so I will try a d explain.

Both ways involve a toolbox  I have a pretty large sturdy 1.

My first method involves foam. Which I can get pretty cheap from a sewing shop.

I cut the foam in to squares so they fit snuggly in the tool box 2 × 1.

In each of these squares I cut out slots for each of my models with a Stanley knife and number each slot.

Each of my foam blocks can reliably carry up to 30 human sized models.

These foam slots stack in the case and when they are not in use the foam slots go into a set of hobby draws and I'll swap them out for a different army.

As for big models I cut out foam squares and then cut the kiddies out so you just have the edge. I can fit 2/3 treelord sized models and I place foam blocks to stop them moving.

ADVANTAGE

Keeps the models very safe and very organised And have been able to survive very long journeys.

Also you can customise it completely.

AND 

It stops damaging models that perhaps can't handle a lot of movement while on their bases.

Disadvantage

It takes time to cut out the slots(Although I've found it quite therapeutic)

It takes longer to set up and pack away your army.

If you have more than one army it can start to take up a lot of space.

 

 

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Second method. Which I be live a lot.of people do in some variation.

Still use the tool box.

Cut a load of corners out with the foam at least 1" high.

Get some thin met and cut squares same as the foam mentioned above.

Get magnetic sheets and attach them to each square of MDF 

ALSO if you have any thin foam you can put it in between the board at the magnetic sheet as shock absorption.

You then need to magnatize the bottoms of all it models.bases.

You can then create "shelves" for models by stacking the foam corners to suit the models height. Placing the board on and then putting as.many models as can fit.

You can then potentially put another shelf on top as needed.

ADVANTAGES 

More diversity when it comes to storing models.

Quicker storage

Takes up less room

Models are stored standing up.

Disadvantage 

Requires a fair bit of prep

Need to be made.precisley to avoid shelves moving.

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Over the years I've owned all sorts of figure cases from GW and other companies.  Now back in the day when models were metal and all of a very similar and smaller  size they worked well.  These days where the models are a lot larger, more dynamic and made of plastic I find that the foam itself is either too small to properly hold the figure or that things get caught in the foam and break off.

My solution is to only pack away stuff I'm not using in the proper figure cases and transport my models for games in plain old plastic storage boxes.  A little blu-tac stops them moving about too much and I can choose a box deep enough to accommodate things like Scarbrand.

I only ever take them from my house to the store and I go by car not public transport so they never get shaken up too much so don't need that much protection anyway.

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As you said there tons of options out there and it really depends on your needs.  I have to say that if you are looking for a storage/transport option that also has some display uses, I have a Tablewar case and love it.  Holds a ton, great for transport and minis look great in it when just stored. It is pricey but I have gotten my money out of it. 

IMG_3458_Edit__88199.1426102125.1280.1280__10327.1480289058.500.750.jpg

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One of the most popular ways is to glue a rare-earth magnet (neodynanium) into the base of your miniature and then use something metal to put them on.  A "Really Useful Box" with a baking sheet glued into the bottom is without a doubt the most commonly seen way of transporting models.  Foam has a tendency to "snag" small and spiky bits of models.

If you are able to drive (or be driven) to where you're going, a box like above works fine.  If you (like myself) use public transport or similar, then I'd suggest looking at something like a Battlefoam Magna Rack or an A-Case+ (when they eventually offer them for public release).  Although a lot more expensive, they're perfect for lugging models around for a number of hours without damage to you or your models.

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Magnetic trays are all the rage at present. Not just for transporting models to a game, but also at events where you can keep your army on a metal sheet and just carry it around easily game to game without having to rebox and unpack it all. It's thus very popular at tournaments and such similar events.

Magnetic trays are also good because the lack of foam spacers means that you can fit a LOT more models into far less space, which makes it much easier to transport larger armies without needing multiple cases. Plus once you've made a case with a sheet you don't need to buy another sheet insert to fit a new army or new models into, so it can save in the long run over having to buy more foam inserts. 

So magnets have a lot going for them, but there are some downsides:

a) Jolting. Rare Earth magnets are strong, but not impossibly so. As a result its possible that a big enough jolt to a bag can cause models to jump or dislodge. If they are chunky metal models (say an old dragon or dreadnought) or top heavy/large then they might well bounce or jolt off their magnet for a moment or fall to the side and thus could cause damage. For car to store its probably not an issue, but if walking long distance or going by plane it might be a cause for concern. 

b) Wobbly models. Some models are not built like marines. In fact GW has quite a few now that have a lot of model held by a very thin bit of plastic - Khinerai are a prime example of models that have a fair bit of wobble to them even without moving them! Models like that won't do well on a metal sheet because they will wobble around a lot as they are moved and thus might break, wear their join area and could become entangled with others. This might scrape paint, snap spears or just make a tangled mess for you to sort out. 

c) Magnet comes off - can happen. Scoring the plastic base and metal joint area on the magnet is essential to helping ensure a good strong bond with the superglue. But even so you might still get models break off their magnet from time to time.

 

Overall I think magnets will work better for some armies over others, some are going to have a lot more fragile models which are just not suited to it; whilst others will have more stable/firm models that will work great with them. Either way if you attend tournaments and big events (or plan too) you might well magnetize your models so that, even if your case is foam based, when you turn up you can pull out a metal sheet and use that to move your army around on the day. 

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Probably most estatic thing will be to buy a case from case making company, it might even offer some customisation options. 
Hand cut foam trays will work, but I personaly decided to go other way, since I'm a lazy person therefore my trays turned out pretty rag-tag
So magnets it is, I use those now because they give me more space and can fit almost any of my models (I even managed to put terrorgheist in quite a small plastic box thanks to magnetised wings)

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21 hours ago, Overread said:

c) Magnet comes off - can happen. Scoring the plastic base and metal joint area on the magnet is essential to helping ensure a good strong bond with the superglue. But even so you might still get models break off their magnet from time to time.

I'd always been told that when supergluing, you want the two areas to be as smooth & clean as possible.  So gluing on top of the base "dimple" or part number is more likely to result in a magnet coming off than one of the completely flat areas?

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+1 For the really useful boxes and magnets. When magnetising I tend to superglue a small blob of green stuff to the underside of the base, then put a dot of glue on the magnet and press it into the putty. This creates an extra strong bond and ensures your magnet always sits flush with the tray.

For storage (if you've not got space to display all your minis at home) I use cardboard record boxes with custom cut foam. Theyre durable enough to be stuck in the back of a car for the occassional big game and it's easier to accomodate armies with lots of different sized minis.

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1 hour ago, RuneBrush said:

I'd always been told that when supergluing, you want the two areas to be as smooth & clean as possible.  So gluing on top of the base "dimple" or part number is more likely to result in a magnet coming off than one of the completely flat areas?

Yes and no.

When I prepare a surface to be glued with superglue I first do clean both surfaces to be joined so that they are smooth, they want to press together without lumps or bumps, so you certainly want to avoid the number of the dimple underneath the base. However scoring the surfaces is different. When you score the surface with a blade you're roughing that smooth surface up with a cut, which is in no way as big as the 4 or dimple. By scoring both surfaces what you do is increase the surface area that comes into contact with the superglue; you also introduce more angles for it to join on. These are important because superglue forms a layer between two surfaces and holds onto both halves to make the join. So the more surface area and the more angles equals the better the hold. 

It also helps the glue secure itself a lot quicker, I used to regularly use the trick of a tiny tiny bit of greenstuff* in a join when making metal models; today I score both join areas and press them together and they lock in a lot faster. The glue stil takes the same length of time to properly cure and harden, but the initial lock on hold is much quicker.

 

* If doing this you use a REALLY tiny bit. Greenstuff cures super fast and sticky when exposed to superglue and thus you can use a very small bit to fast lock a small join area which will then hold the parts in place whilst the rest of the glue dries. You don't want lots because otherwise you've got the greenstuff forming a layer between the two surfaces (stuck on both sides with the glue) and greenstuff is far weaker a joining material than the glue is - thus creating a very weak join. 

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Thank you guys for those answers.

Yeah- problem is storing them at home and in the future (when i have time ) transporting them.

While first one i resolved (display unit from Ikea :) ) the second one is for the future.

Once again thank you for your suggestions. 

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Rather than making my own thread I also want to request some help. 

My main army is Idoneth Deepkin and I'm finding it very difficult to transport them. I currently have two old style GW cases, one with single figure marine foam and one with egg foam, an eidolon in a cardboard box with bubble wrap and a gloom tide shipwreck that gets wrapped in bubble wrap with no box. This is all jammed into a wheely case. It's way too much to carry but any other solutions have resulted in model damage, even my current solution causes a lot of damage to the gloom tide. 

My main issue is that the eels just don't fit into the cases, neither does my eidolon or ship. If I buy a turtle I'm screwed. I didn't have any issues with getting my guys together for my older (alas now long sold) armies. 

I was thinking of buying the citadel crusade case. It looks like the foam waves might suit the eels and has plenty of space. 

I don't really want to DIY something especially with magnets. 

Would the citadel case be a good investment? Or should I be looking elsewhere. My friend has a feldher case but it seems unsuited to deepkin. 

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I cant comment on the use you require but I did buy one of the little GW cases with the foam 'waves' to try and have a small(ish) box to transport Shadespire teams (and other skirmish armies for other games systems I play).

I personally find the thing totally useless.  The 'waves' move about so unless the case is filled with models they are not held securely.   Smaller models end up slipping under the 'waves' as well.  The dynamic pose of models also means that some are 'too tall' and have to be stored on their sides which means you can't actually get a lot in there and the more spikey bits of models snag in the foam which means I've broken models because they were stored in the box supposed to protect them.

Now these might not be issue with a larger box and/or your models but it's something to think about.

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I am a believer in Really Useful Boxes and magnets but if that's not your thing I'd suggest magnetizing at least the turtle and eels to their stands/base.   Done a lot for 40K big flyers.  

It's a lot easier to store the Model portion detached from the base portion with many of these big flying type models.   If there is a howdah or large wings (not so much for Idoneth) also worth making it a separate magnetized piece.    The volume of space needed to fit the model goes down significantly.

 

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