The fine detail

[LunarLizard]

Hi All 

I am currently building a new set of models and want these to be as good as possible (until I get better). 

I am after hints and tips for the finer details while assembling before the primer stage. 

Lots my my models have either gaps, overlaps, slight miss-alignments etc.  I spend ages with the Citadel Mouldline Remover smoothing the mould lines off. I find using greenstuff for gaps really hard to use as I find it is really sticky - I need to work on this (tip would be great )

Has anyone got tips on how they get their models as close to perfect before painting?  or point me to videos etc?

 

Thanks in advance

 

[Routasydän]

I tend to fill some gaps on plastic minis with plastic glue  couple layers of glue and then shave it smooth.

It does take some time waiting for the glue to dry if you need like three or so layers.

[Vasshpit]

Use a bit of Vaseline on your tools and finger tips when working with green stuff.

You could try the liquid form.ive never used it so idk.

I read somewhere about using white glue in small cracks and seams. Seems like it would work out well.

[elfhead]

When working with greenstuff: use water! When your tools or fingers are wet they won't stick to the stuff. Just Google for Some tutorials on filling gaps with greenstuff. 

Also, think about possibly not assembling the model completely. Sometimes that can make painting a lot easier

[Kramer]

4 hours ago, LunarLizard said:

I need to work on this (tip would be great )

Personal top tip: first let the green stuf set a bit before trying to smooth it over then use a metal tool (or backside of a brush) that use dip in water to shape. 

[Bjarni St.]

I've used the Liquid Green Stuff a fair amount because I'm lazy and find normal GS a hassle and... the liquid stuff is a bit shite. It sticks to everything you don't want it to, shrinks a ton when it dries and is in general a huge pain to apply.

[harrocks]

liquid green stuff is very good - certainly for smaller gaps etc.

probably frowned upon by most, but I would also ask if all of the 'faults' you're worried about would actually be visible from table-top distance (assuming you'll be gaming with the miniatures rather than collecting / painting only)?

I often feel there's too much obsessing about things like mould-lines etc on miniatures, when they really don't show 'in use'.

These figures weren't meant to be seen at 10x normal size on computer monitors, and the increasing prevalence of such 'magnification' is feeding such attitudes I suspect.

Anyway, there's absolutely nothing wrong with wanting to attain a perceived standard of hobby crafting excellence I agree - just wouldn't want to feel that you may be discouraged from continuing by 'issues' you needn't be too concerned by when all's said and done.

Do give liquid green stuff a go - you'll find it much easier to work with (up to a point) than the putty.

[harrocks]

just seen Bjarni's comment above mine .. lol ... what can you say in terms of classic internet forums contrasting opinions!

Bjarni's probably right - but you can get a pot of LGS pretty cheaply, and I would still suggest giving it a go for smaller gaps etc.

[GuitaRasmus]

My favourite sculpting medium is green stuff/milliput (the light green colour on my unpainted minis) - 1/3 green stuff, 2/3 milliput, mixed together. 

Trust me on this one. Even the big guys in sculpting use this a lot, and most agree that green stuff alone is not an easy medium to work with. 

M/GS (milliput/greenstuff combo) differs from regular green stuff quite a bit. It has almost no memory (as in, it stays put, when you move it - green stuff is elastic), it is much softer than GS, and it is water soluble - you can use a wetted brush afterwards, to make any transitions completely smooth. Even better, it dries harder than green stuff, and files/sands much better - you can make really sharp edges, etc, after sculpting. It really retains the best of both green stuff and milliput - none of which I'm a big fan of, on their own. 

Just use a bit of water on the sculpting tool when working with it - trust me - it made me do a lot better work, just changing my sculpting medium. 
Oh, and get a set of clay shapers - MUCH easier to work with for what you're doing, than the metal tools. 

[Rogue Explorator]

Now, I decidetly amateur at using greenstuff, but I have found a combination of a water glass and a regular kitchen sponge to be quite useful. By wiping my tools on the sponge after dipping them in water, I can really control the moisture and stickiness. I feel it gives me some extra technical flexibility. This approach does require constant reapplication of water, but I feel that step integrated quite easily into my routine and the regular short rest from concentrating ist quite welcome at times, especially on fine detail.

I really wouldn't want to use an oil based agent on greenstuff. I hate the idea of cleaning the miniature of residue between every new layer and sometimes fold up some areas I work on and feel that wouldn't work so well with oily residue.

But ymmv, from what I've read, everyone who works with greenstuff seems to have their own stickiness solution.

@GuitaRasmusI was meaning to ask you wether that was a greenstuff/milliput mixture, it is good to know the ratio as well. Thanks for that. I really need to get me some milliput, making large areas of plate is a bit of chore with pure greenstuff, though otherwhise, it is starting to grow on me.

[LunarLizard]

Wow thanks guys. 

I actually have some milliput and green stuff, not LGS though. 

I am going to put all your advice to good use, might even try different methods on each model in to find what works for me. 

I ended up getting my brother in law to help me on Numinous Occulum, that model was the worst I've have tried to get fitted correctly,  he used soo much milliput. Miniatures I can deal with but need alot of improvement but that scenery was horrific! 

Right... back to assembling me minis

 

[Spiky Norman]

@GuitaRasmus Which specific type of Milliput do you mix with green stuff?

[GuitaRasmus]

12 minutes ago, Spiky Norman said:

@GuitaRasmus Which specific type of Milliput do you mix with green stuff?

Just the regular kind - no need for using fine. It doesn't make a difference, and it's more expensive. 

Another advantage of using MP/GS mix, is that milliput is much cheaper than green stuff, so it is much more economical. 

[RuneBrush]

Different gaps require different approaches in truth.  The vast majority of the newer GW models can be dealt with using multiple layers of Liquid Green Stuff and a Clay Shaper tool (basically a rubber tip in a paint brush handle), I'll normally blob some into the gap and then use a piece of blueroll or kitchen towel to wipe it smooth.  Sometimes you may need to use the clay shaper to work it into the gap.  There will be shrinkage, but you really need to build it up in multiple layers if you want a good finish.  You can thin this down with water too if you're smoothing over a rough surface (for example a resin model).

For filling larger gaps I normally use Magic Sculpt for filling.  This is much easier to manage than Green Stuff, it's less sticky and dries much more solidly, the end consistency is more akin to a Green Stuff/Fine Milliput mix.  I also use a clay shaper to work this into the gap, for particularly deep gaps apply it in layers, then sculpt it to match the surrounding area.  Although you can happily carve it, try and get it as best as you can first as it's possibly to snag the whole piece out if you've not mixed it very well.

Green Stuff is great when you're doing something more organic that the other two don't lend themselves too, it also maintains some flexibility once set so works quite well if a joint is ever going to come under any form of stress - an arm that you always lift a miniature up by for example as Magic Sculpt can crack.

In the past I've sculpted fur cloaks - the leather layer being Magic Sculpt and the fur being Green Stuff.