Banglesprout Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Hey guys! I've been spending my day building my first 3 Gore Gruntas, and so far I have two thoughts. 1. These guys look sooo awesome! 2. These guys have quite a lot of significant gaps to fill So I was wondering if anyone has any tips for how to fill them? I'm thinking I'll pick up some liquid green stuff and give that a go - I've used the putty before but never the liquid stuff, which I've heard shrinks a lot when it dries. Any advice on using it? Or tips on alternative if liquid greenstuff isn't the answer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malakree Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 if you fit them together perfectly they actually do go, the big issue is following the instructions because each of the pieces specifically fits one of the 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollie Grimwood Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Didn't have any gaps on mine but I did have to concentrate pretty hard on the instructions. Liquid green is only good for filling very small gaps, hairline really, for anything wider use standard green stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiky Norman Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 That sounds odd - Mine went together just fine with no gap filling. Where are the significant gaps you're getting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banglesprout Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 The gaps I'm most aware of are on the boar's head e.g. you can see the lower lip in the photo below. I did make sure to use the same numbered parts as the instructions, they just don't seem to fit together quite seemlessly. I have filled some of them in with ordinary green stuff, but I thought the liquid might be easier to work with for small fight gap filling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiky Norman Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Yea, those gaps are worth doing something to before you prime for sure. I haven't had much luck with using Liquid green stuff, but use normal green stuff for bigger gaps. Though on plastic models like the Grunta, you can also consider simply using (extra) plastic glue to fill gaps, as it fuses the two parts together. I use Revel glue with the needle nose, and have often done this if I had small gaps or lines of indentations. So if you have something like this, I would recommend you try that out, as you can easily wipe off (wet) /scrape off (dried) any excess that may flow on to an adjacent flat part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fungrim Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Use Revell plastic glue (blue bottle yellow tip with metal nozzle) - this stuff partially melts the plastic to form best bond, so if you fill a gap with it it often does wonders (Posted at same time as @Spiky Norman ! Absolutely concur) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banglesprout Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 Cheers guys, I have tried using glue to seal the gaps, which works OK. For this long thin lines I found greenstuff putty can be quite awkward to work with - in this case I love the concept of liquid green stuff but it doesn't sound like anyone is recommending it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_gore Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Liquid green stuff is indeed not a good product to fill gaps. You'll need 3-4 passes even on the tiniest of cracks. Plastic glue is wonderful for thin gaps. Putty style stuff for wider gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Tomlin Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 On 10/09/2017 at 8:48 AM, Fungrim said: Use Revell plastic glue (blue bottle yellow tip with metal nozzle) - this stuff partially melts the plastic to form best bond, so if you fill a gap with it it often does wonders (Posted at same time as @Spiky Norman ! Absolutely concur) As @Fungrim and @Spiky Norman said, this is 100% the way to go. I also approve of the specific product Fungrim mentioned. You can buy it here; http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/revell/glue/revell-contacta-25g?d=10210 This does the exact job you want when it comes to building Gore-gruntas...and I should know!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fungrim Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 1 hour ago, Chris Tomlin said: As @Fungrim and @Spiky Norman said, this is 100% the way to go. I also approve of the specific product Fungrim mentioned. You can buy it here; http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/revell/glue/revell-contacta-25g?d=10210 This does the exact job you want when it comes to building Gore-gruntas...and I should know!! Should also add, if you do get this, and you're silly enough to lose the nozzle cover like I tend to... it's handy to keep a lighter around! Metal nozzle needs evacuating sometimes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Tomlin Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 1 hour ago, Fungrim said: Should also add, if you do get this, and you're silly enough to lose the nozzle cover like I tend to... it's handy to keep a lighter around! Metal nozzle needs evacuating sometimes Yup, this is also something I do. Did a dodgy one handed video of it for a Twitter hobby tip video! Pro tip; remove the metal nozzle from the container before lighting it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fungrim Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 25 minutes ago, Chris Tomlin said: Yup, this is also something I do. Did a dodgy one handed video of it for a Twitter hobby tip video! Pro tip; remove the metal nozzle from the container before lighting it up. I remember you saying that! It was probably you I stole the lighter thing from to be fair... I think before that I used to just pull the nozzle out and struggle dabbing it on carefully from the yellow bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiky Norman Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 1 hour ago, Chris Tomlin said: Pro tip; remove the metal nozzle from the container before lighting it up. Really? I've never even thought of doing that. I use the lighter on it while it's stuck in, and have never had any problems with it. :-) ...Maybe the fumes are making me forget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banglesprout Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Great advice, thanks guys! So I chose to both heed and ignore you all.. by buying both a bottle of liquid green stuff *and* plastic glue with the nozzle. I wanted give LGS a go.. and I too can confirm that it does virtually nothing after one or two passes.. The plastic glue with nozzle is great for fusing together parts, particularly if you're happy with there being a visible indentation, as long as it's not a gap. I think if you want more control over the texture of the filling, or you want a seemless filling then putty green stuff is really the only answer. Anyway the grunters are all done, now just to paint the buggers ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuneBrush Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I think for deep gaps, a proper putty is the best option. I'm a big fan of Magic Sculp, it's not as elastic as green stuff but dries more solid and is easier to manipulate (it's more like milliput), I've been using it to fill the gaps where Ogor arms join with great success. Of course there's also nothing stopping you using plastic glue to "fill" the gap and then just topping up the surface with putty or liquid green stuff (a bit like using No Nails to fill a hole in a wall before you Polyfilla over the top) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fungrim Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 2 hours ago, Banglesprout said: Great advice, thanks guys! So I chose to both heed and ignore you all.. by buying both a bottle of liquid green stuff *and* plastic glue with the nozzle. I wanted give LGS a go.. and I too can confirm that it does virtually nothing after one or two passes.. I never actually responded to your LGS question as I got so excited about Revell.... I've had fairly limited experience with LGS, but it's been 50/50. Biggest obstacle is picking you sculpting tool - obviously you don't want to be using the same tools as normal GS. I picked up some rubber-tipped clay craft tools from The Works (are you UK based??) for super cheap, and they're invaluable for all types of GS work. To be honest, I gave up on LGS as the 3 tubs I bought over a 12-month period barely lasted a week or 2 each before firming up and becoming mildly useless. I've since returned to good old fashioned GS (cheap Kneadite from eBay is perfectly fine) - I find soft GS can do most things that LGS can do, and if I want it any runnier, I'll use Revell. Have to say though, 99% of the time nowadays I don't need to fill cracks, the Revell sorts it all whilst I'm doing the initial building. As you say though you've picked both up and the only way is trial and error! Glad to hear your Gruntas are ready to paint... welcome to your new nightmare.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiky Norman Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 7 hours ago, Banglesprout said: [...] The plastic glue with nozzle is great for fusing together parts, particularly if you're happy with there being a visible indentation, as long as it's not a gap. [...] If you have an indentation where you fused two parts together, you can easily go and pour more glue on it to level it out. Once it's dry you can sand or simply scrape your hobby knife across it to smooth it out completely. I use glue to both fuse, fill smaller gaps and level out indentations like what you mention. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Tomlin Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 19 hours ago, Spiky Norman said: If you have an indentation where you fused two parts together, you can easily go and pour more glue on it to level it out. Once it's dry you can sand or simply scrape your hobby knife across it to smooth it out completely. I use glue to both fuse, fill smaller gaps and level out indentations like what you mention. :-) Yeh this is a great tip and is invaluable with the newer style of plastic GW kits. I used to hate plastic glue, but nowadays it's all you need for basic GW model assembly (other than a mouldline cleaning device of course). Can get completely seamless joins with relative ease. 23 hours ago, Fungrim said: Glad to hear your Gruntas are ready to paint... welcome to your new nightmare.... .... Funny because it's true! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiky Norman Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 10 hours ago, Chris Tomlin said: .... Funny because it's true! True, true. The Gruntas are a pain, but you'll be so happy with them once they're done. Just don't go and get like 12-15 of them like some other people and you'll stay sane :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banglesprout Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 I'm currently printing some Brutes, so haven't started on my Gruntas yet.. I definitely intend to have at least 6 eventually... Although it sounds like I might change my mind about that after these first three Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titcher Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 I have six gruntas to paint for a tournament at the beginning of October and am dreading it. Luckily I have 25 Ardboys to paint as well so am mixing and matching. 1 grunta then 5 Ardboys then one gruntas etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Tomlin Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Gore-grunta status update 6 painted 8 assembled but unpainted 4 unassembled One day I will have all 18 painted and on the battlefield...it will be glorious. Aiming for another 3 painted before the year is out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strammefar Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 I have heard that you can use varnish to fill the gaps, but I have never tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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