mrstimpson38 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I've base coated and put a couple colors on some space marines in the past when I first started into Warhammer, but I never finished anything. Well Orruks have grabbed me more than anything else in Warhammer and after putting together tons of miniatures I decided that AoS Orruks will be my first finished army, and here's my first piece. Here's some lore I've created to go with the army. This is just a small overview, I'll get into depth with it in my blog here on TGA. The Blood Guzzla' Tribe. Ferocious even beyond typical Orruk standards, these terrifying creatures believe that by drinking the blood of fallen enemies they will inherit the power of said foe. Crazy with blood lust, these Orruks will feast on anything that they believe will sate their thirst and allow them to grow in strength. To behold a Waaaagh of slathering, howling Orruks dripping in gore and blood is to know the true meaning of fear. I'm not happy with the base, but the style is what I'm going to go with. I may try a different mixture of wash to get it a little more red, the dab some blood in the center of the base and taper it outward lightly. I'd really love some pointers from anyone that would be willing to give me any. Be it the model, the base, anything. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ansuz Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 That orruk looks great if it's your first painted mini. I would suggest painting the rim of the base and maybe a dark green wash for the skin to give it more contrast. But great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warhammernerd Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Great job, you should be pleased with yourself. My advice would be to clean up be edges of the base, and give it a coat of black paint. But first give the dirt on your base a coat of dark brown, then drybrush with two successive coats of pale brown. If you want it to look really sexy, dab some pva here and there and give it a dusting of flock or static grass. And finally, a tuft might look nice. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamonRafael Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I would say that some highlight to the leather on the arms and on the weapon will add a lot to this model, which is already great if it's really your first one My first one wasn't that clean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviathus Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Nice work man! I do see some thick brushstroke marks on your model so try to thin your paints a bit more. Other than that, stellar work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nat Westwood Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Very, very good, you should be really pleased with yourself. Best executed parts are your splatter/gore on the weapon and around the mouth. The colour palette works really well. Keep doing what you're doing. some improvements might be a dark contrasting shade to the skin, then a lighter picked out highlight, to make your paint a bit thinner when painting the skin, and some technical work on the base. Faces and Bases make the award winning models. You'll hear people looking in cabinets mutter faces and bases knowledgeably and thus it is enforced more and becomes a self fulfilling property. Faces and Bases. What would I do? Get some watered down dark brown paint (or Agrax Earthshade wash) and paint it into the folds of the flesh and muscle, between the fingers, in the ear, under the cheeks, wherever shadow falls. Paint it in controlled brush strokes. The darkest bit should be behind the eyes, then the red will really sparkle and look menacing. next I'd get your original skin colour, mix the lightest yellow or cream colour you have 50:50 into it, add a drop of water so it's like a milk (not too thin though, you should drag a brush stroke across your palette and if you can see through the paint it's a little too thin). Then just add tiny small dots of this colour to the highest surfaces of skin, cheekbones, knuckles, tops of muscle, tip of ear, wherever the light highlights most. These two contrasting techniques around the "base colour" are the main principle that we all follow as miniature painters, how you achieve this is wonderful and different and unique. Even the Eavy Metal GW studio painters use different techniques and mix and match and swap with each other. now on your photo you can see the back and shoulder blades have a gritty, scabby look to the finished paint. This paint was too dry before you applied it. This is where people will say "thin your paints". You need to be confident enough to analyse your paint as your brush works and say no this has got too dry now, no this is to thin for the job I want to do, no this is too thick for the job. You will get that through experience. With the paint on the Orruks back, yes definitely thin your paint a tad. These are basic tips for tabletop quality, and not necessarily Right. But in most situations these will make things better. Don't get to wed to the "it should be like milk" idea. You could need thinner or thicker for different jobs on the model. A really fantastic service I can't recommend highly enough is a lesson with Golem Studios and Tommie Soule. Simply Brilliant. Also track down Bad Dice Weekly episode 4. and keep painting, because that's really the only way we get better, keep painting! Good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmanuva Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I want ups echo what everyone else has said really, I think it's very good. Love the skin tone and the overall feel of the mini! As you said yourself, I'd agree the base could do with a re think but the model itself is a great effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks for all the input guys. I really appreciate it. I found that I do have an issue with getting my paint to the right consistency and judging if it still is right after a minute or two. I tried to make a wet pallet, but either it was too wet or too dry, so I just went back to using my plastic pallet. I also have a problem with fine details like the eyes and fine highlights like the face and wrist wraps. I have some decent brushes, but my hands shake and I'm just getting used to holding the model in a way that it allows me to steady myself. I think I just need to mash out some highlights and build some confidence, because I think my fear or ruining what I've already done is holding me back from practicing highlights. I'll definitely work on my paint consistency, adding some paint to the rim of the base (while also cleaning up the top with some dry brushing and a tuff), and some highlighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuneBrush Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 20 minutes ago, mrstimpson38 said: Thanks for all the input guys. I really appreciate it. I found that I do have an issue with getting my paint to the right consistency and judging if it still is right after a minute or two. I tried to make a wet pallet, but either it was too wet or too dry, so I just went back to using my plastic pallet. I also have a problem with fine details like the eyes and fine highlights like the face and wrist wraps. I have some decent brushes, but my hands shake and I'm just getting used to holding the model in a way that it allows me to steady myself. I think I just need to mash out some highlights and build some confidence, because I think my fear or ruining what I've already done is holding me back from practicing highlights. I'll definitely work on my paint consistency, adding some paint to the rim of the base (while also cleaning up the top with some dry brushing and a tuff), and some highlighting. Most of those things come with practise - try to get at least half an hour or an hour in most evenings and you'll be surprised at how quickly they start to come together. I tend to brace my hands against each other - brush in one and model in the other with "heel" of my hands touching. It means that if you shake everything shakes! Palettes are very much down to personal preference, the paints you're using and what you're painting. I tend to use a wet palette if I'm doing a lot of layers on flesh or working with certain colours (bone for example), but all of the Bloodbound I've done recently have been with an old plastic palette and size 2 and 1 brush Consistency wise, have a look at the Warhammer TV YouTube videos as it's quite easy to see the working consistency of the paint they use for the various layers and vary based on the results you want. Also some paints will dry out more quickly than others - I try to avoid painting bone and creams in the middle of the day when it's warm as they dry out really quickly in comparison to reds or blues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nat Westwood Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Any brush, needs to come to a good tip. A nice point. No strays. Dip it in water and place it in the crease on your palm below your little finger (do fortune tellers call it the lifeline?) slightly grip so it enfolds the brush and then gently twist the brush out. This should make a brilliant point for your brush. Then the trick is move the model to help your brush, don't move the brush around the model. To practice a steady hand, try having both hands touching thumb alongside thumb and both elbows touching the table, while you paint. Like classic payer hands opened out so the palms face away from you. It's a trick to help steady yourself but with practice you shouldn't need to something that ceremonial. Then it's how you use the brush on the model. Point in Length out. So go right into where you want to start at the furthest away spot, say the top ridge in the fold f a cloak. Put that perfect tip of a point precisely where you want to start. Then with the length of the side of the brush, angle your hand so that this is the part your using use one smooth stroke towards yourself and pull away. Finished. This is the stroke you must master for all sorts of things. Everything. This is THE brushstroke. Point in Length Out. Drawing back towards yourself. Turn, rotate, reverse the model everywhich you can imagine but keep the brush and what you do the same. Build good habits. Lose bad habits. Enjoy yourself. You'll give up if you're not happy. And you are really good, you should be very happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 I applied some of the input onto the model today. Here are some pictures in natural lighting. I have to say that I was surprised how much differently the model looked in natural lighting. So much so that I feel like purchasing some kind of lamp that will emulate natural lighting a little more than the two I use. As for the input that I applied, I added some highlights to the face, ears, hands, and leather straps. I took a detail bush and added some wash into the recessed places all over the model, and I redid the colors on the base. Overall I'm really happy with the effect that all this applied to my model. I know that my technical application is lacking, but I can already see some of the things I need to work on and apply to my next model. I think I'm going to stamp this one as complete, possibly spray it with a layer of testors dullcote to see how that works, and move on to the next model with quite a few lessons learned from this one. Thanks for all the help, guys! Again, I really appreciate how helpful this community is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Looks really good now for a first model! Definitely solid tabletop standard no questions there. All I would say now, is use a finer substrate for the base, a nicer sand. The effect will look even more awesome then. Maybe even blood for the blood god puddles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 So I messed up pretty badly on my second model... ...but have learned a good deal from it, so it's alright. The moment I knew I didn't like the blood effect (almost immediately) I should have stoped, cleaned it up, and tried again. Instead, I said "F it" and decided to ruin my base coat... for science (that's how I justify it post-mortem). I get a little more into the details of what I learned on my blog, but I'd still like for you guys to tear this apart for me. I know it's terrible, but there may be layers of terrible I won't be able to see without the help of others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamonRafael Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 well if it is of any help, I like the bones on the back As for the blood, indeed is a bit too much eheh. As someone more practical than me can explain, there is an easy and very impressive technique you can use to "mess up" your model with blood. Basically, using an old brush, simply charge it with a bit of blood for the blood god and rub the tip with your thumb, in this way you should see little sketches appear on your model, without fully covering the base and giving the model a nice "splash" effect After that, mess a bit more the point where the "hit" happened to cover it a bit more with blood. Not sure if this helps you or not, feel free to ignore it eheh. 'bout the skin, now, I see an improvement here! I can see you thinned your colors a bit more, and also you went with more shades and highlights, good job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 The skin is looking way, way better, great improvement. Remember, if you want a darker appearance to the skin, keep the highlights only to the extremes and build them up there That red looks a bit dull, are you using a red shade instead of blood for the blood god? I was testing stuff out yesterday actually, mixing blood for the blood god with typhus corrosion to form a dirty blood base layer, then doing pure blood for the blood god as fresh blood. See the results here. Still not fantastic, but learnt a lot and will do more control with the base dirty blood next time. It's been a night since I did it and as you can see, the blood is still shiny, especially fresh. Also, you have some pooling with your red wash. Just remember to clean your brush, and use it to lift any big droplets pooling in crevasses. It will still end up dark or you can give it another coat, but pooling is a bit more obvious Still, you're coming on leaps and bounds mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamJ Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 The flesh is looking great on the new model. Much more definition between the shades and highlights. 11 hours ago, mrstimpson38 said: So I messed up pretty badly on my second model... ...but have learned a good deal from it, so it's alright. The moment I knew I didn't like the blood effect (almost immediately) I should have stoped, cleaned it up, and tried again. Instead, I said "F it" and decided to ruin my base coat... for science (that's how I justify it post-mortem). I get a little more into the details of what I learned on my blog, but I'd still like for you guys to tear this apart for me. I know it's terrible, but there may be layers of terrible I won't be able to see without the help of others. I feel your pain. My first attempt when using Blood for the Blood God went horribly wrong as I didn't know when enough was enough. I agree with @DamonRafael's advice of flicking the tip with your thumb. I found that for this to work best you need a really stiff brush. The Duncan Rhodes video shows this to great effect. I've also discovered another slightly different technique which I prefer. If you just want very small blobs of blood then load your brush up (not quite as much as Duncan does in the video above) and blow from about 5cm behind the tip. The further the brush is from the model the wider the dispersion of blood (about 5cm-10cm works best). Obviously this is very messy so I usually do this in my back garden - again don't over do it though. For your first practice its well worth using an old model you don't care about or some parts you know you're not going to use (such as an optional shield). Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Thanks for the tips and polite comments, guys. I'll definitely be referencing them moving forward. So I decided to go ahead and see what I could do to salvage what I had. I edge highlighted the whole model, even portions of the bloody mess I had going on, finished the base, washed the skin one more time to darken it up, and to be honest I'm a lot happier with it now. Yes, I still went overboard and should have tried to make the blood more BftBG and less of the base colors, but I think the Mephiston Red highlights really make the bloody parts pop. What do you guys think? Marginally better or a marked improvement? Also, I'm starting to feel a lot more comfortable with my consistency and edge highlights. I know this model's not the best example, but I really feel like after my next 3-5 I'll be in a really good place. Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Becoming much happier with my consistency. Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 Bang on. I find a useful thing is after doing the last layer for basecoats or layers, water it down so it's not quite a wash but not far off, and just coat the areas again. Evens it out, covers any lingering brush strokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 Here's a wip of a model I've been working on for a couple days now. I was a little scared about the color choice of the hair, but after I put it on him I've come to like it. I still need some highlights and the base, but that's it. I toned down my blood application back to the level I was at in my first model and am happy with the results. I can't wait to finish it so I can spray a layer of dullcote on there to see if it will mask the shine from the wash. Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 I wanted this to be done for wip wednesday, but life happened, so here's what I finished today. I tried to make a pseudo lightbox out of construction paper, and adjust the lighting level on my phone. I think the photos are a little better, but I'm just as new to photography as I am painting, so I'll get there. I decided to go with a cleaner look on my base and I'm pleased with the result. The hair turned out nice color wise, but I'm lacking in the application department. Overall I'm happy with my progress, but a little frustrated that it looks so sloppy since I feel like I'm taking a long time per model. In the end of the day though, it makes me very happy to finish each model I've done, and love this portion of the hobby. Anyone have any input on improvements I could make, or tips on making the model look as clean as others i see around here? I'd appreciate the input. Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Looking great! I still would consider a smaller grain substrate for teh base like sand and then painting it yourself, adding grass etc. Or the cool newish technicals like agrellan earth. In terms of cleanliness, try reapplying your main layer after the wash and then add a highlight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 I never thought of adding another layer after the wash. If it's a thin enough layer it won't cover what the wash darkens? Or it does somewhat, but the subsequent highlight makes it pop back out? For that base I tried just an agrax earth shade, but I'd like to see what that agrellan earth is all about. I know it's generally accepted that painted bases look better than non, but I like how the natural colors compliment the earthy tones of the model. Maybe I can recreate that with some paints, but I'm not sure I have the paints for it atm. Maybe base in dryad bark (becoming one of my favorite GW paints), then a dry brush of pallad witch flesh and the other one that's close to that. Where do people buy these tufts I see around? Is there a cheap place to pick up tons of them or are they kind of expensive? Thanks again for the I input Soul. I appreciate having people to talk to about my geeky hobby. Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Not to toot my own horn, but if you look at my recent weirdnob as an example, I painted him by basecoating in Waaagh flesh, then layered him with 50/50 waagh/warboss green, making sure to not to paint the most recessed areas. I gave that all a green wash, then another thin only warboss green layer. Then I highlighted it with 50/50 warboss green/skarsnik green. then a final extreme highlight of skarsnik green. You also get a good idea of it in my display picture orruk face. I find that natural stuff unpainted has a habit of making the miniature well, look miniature. They can be recognisable as what they are in our world, not the models if you catch my drift. If you want an earthy look have a look at stirland mud. It basically just looks like mud, but with the right drybrushing it can look drier. I currently use GW Mordheim Turf, but in all honesty stuff from other companies looks great too and I am going to get myself some a bit less dead looking for variation on my bases. Check out darksphere.co.uk if you're in the UK, they have one of the biggest RRP discounts off things. Army Painter stuff looks interesting, I know they make great brushes. No problem! It's the same for me, this forum is a god send for someone who actually wants to chat AoS, and I am always happy to help out new fans of the hobby in general. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrstimpson38 Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 Toot away my friend. That weirdnob looks exquisite. You should be proud. On the "thin only warboss green layer" step, is that over everything including the recesses? I picked up two packs of turf today. I'm excited to plop them on. I have to admit, I do like the way the base looks with just the earth shade, but I'll have to get a turf on there to see how it looks as a whole. I do think there are things I could do to make it better, so I'll be trying more things on at least a couple more bases before I lock in an army wide basing scheme. Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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