Chillpill Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Hi all, I think (!) I have decided on the AoS Army I would like to start with and it is Ironjawz. There is just something about them that I really like. Having said that, I am REAAAAALLY digging the bright yellow paint scheme I have seen on pictures. I know there is a "How to paint Ironjawz" booklet you can order but that, from what I have seen focuses on a more orange type of colour scheme. I was wondering if anyone here could tell me which colours I would need for the Ironjawz? Is there a list somewhere including washes etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flameboy Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 this one is quite easy and looks pretty good : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillpill Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lysandestolpe Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Beware, if you are as new to painting these figures as you allude to, yellow is one of the harder paints to work with. Touchups are hard, and can be very discoureging after you put down hours and hours of work and something gets on the yellow. Take it slow when you paint and be careful around the yellow, especially with darker paints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Are you after all of the colours of just the yellow? The 'how to paint Ironjawz' booklet has orange(ish) looking Orruks on the front but inside they are yellow. For the yellow they suggest: Undercoat White Base Yriel Yellow Wash Seraphim Sepia If Drybrush: Tyrant Skull If Layer: Yriel Yellow (Again)/Screaming Skull However, I personally don't like the final look. There isn't a lot of definition. Funnily enough, it's here: https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/10/30/paint-splatter-orruk-brutes-and-gore-gruntas/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillpill Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Yea I currently have no paints at all so was going to look for a list of all the paints. I found this video as well: I know it is the Megaboss she is painting but I guess I could use that for the regular troops too? I will probably be hugely disappointed with my own end results but hey.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgroover Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 I put in a looooooot of time and effort into trying to figure out how the Ironjawz on the box were painted and I believe I finally have it. It is a base of averland sunset, recesses washed with seraphim sepia and certain spots with cassandora yellow. From there they layered through the yellow line, yriel yellow, then flash gitz yellow, and highlighted from there up to near white on some spots. I have found it to be both extremely slow, and a huge pain in the ass. It takes so many thin layers to get the yellow right. My best advice is after you have your averland base down, do two layers of averland/yriel 1:1, then 2 of yriel, then 2 of yriel/flash gitz 1:1, then 2 of flash gitz, then highlight in white where you please. Also, paint the yellow first, because you might spend a ton of time painting everything else, and decide you hate painting yellow and want to change the rest to a new scheme as well. I waited until last to paint the yellow and if I didn't invest so much time into the rest of the scheme would have given up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZealousJ Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 In general, if you're new to painting miniatures, I'd say dry brushing is a great way to start. Layering can make for a sloppy finish when first starting and blending is difficult and time consuming. GW have a good video explaining the basics of drybrush. Just search on YouTube for warhammer TV drybrush. I'd pick a medium yellow base paint (not too dark, not too light), to paint the yellow areas, wash with seraphim sepia, then drybrush with tyrant skull. You can repeat this on the skin and metal with the correct colours. This should give a good effect with relatively little effort. The problem a lot of people have when they first start ( I certainly did ) is that it's really disheartening to put a lot of effort and time into something and have the end result look nothing like the box. Washes and drybrush get are basically painting 'cheats' that make the end result look far better than the effort or skill used. Once I started to use dry brushing and washes my models looked a good deal better and then I started to get the confidence to try different techniques. I'd also recommend posting your results on these forums. It really is an unusually great wargaming community, both welcoming, encouraging, and politely critical. You're sure to get lots of support. Also I'd really love to see your stuff! Best of luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillpill Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Thank you for the tips and the encouragement, I really appreciate it. I did take the leap and actually ordered the Start Collecting box + the box of 5 Brutes. I figured that would keep me busy for a long while whilst also (hopefully) make for a decent army to play with. The models have not arrived yet but I will have a go at it and I might post some pictures if the outcomes are not too embarrassing. I always sucked in arts and craft so I do fear the worst! haha I seem to remember from years ago that cleaning the parts of the models before assembly is really important. Is this still the case? If so what is the best way to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuluth Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 As far as cleaning, that's more for resin miniatures (like ForgeWorld), due to the releasing agent used to get them out of their injection molds. For them, just soap, warm water, and a toothbrush or nail brush will get all that remaining oil off them. With the plastics in the new GW kits (including the Ironjawz Start Collecting and Brute boxes), it's mostly just mold line cleanup. It can be scraped away with the moldline remover tool, back of a hobby knife, etc. For areas like weapon wrapping, a small bit of plastic glue will melt it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roberto Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Wow. Good luck. I take it you've never painted before? Most of us are underwhelmed with out first attempts. Given the quality that you see online, or with studio paint jobs, don't get discouraged! There are cheap tricks to get you tabletop models painted quickly, if you are not interested in perfection. You can start here: http://www.thearmypainter.com/ There are a lot of people, both advanced and neophyte, who have put out a lot of armies quickly with base coat, wash, and highlight. You can go back into them later if need be and add complexity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillpill Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 I did paint some models probably about 10 years ago but forgotten most if not all of that. So yea total noob. ? In terms of brushes, clippers, knives and glue: can you guys give some tips on where to get these? Is it worth paying the GW premium for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzaangor Management Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Congratulations on taking the plunge! The best advice I can give, as a noob myself, is to be as patient as you can with each stage. Every time I rush, I regret that I didn't just spend a little longer, or stop a stage and come back to it later. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roberto Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 6 minutes ago, Chillpill said: I did paint some models probably about 10 years ago but forgotten most if not all of that. So yea total noob. ? In terms of brushes, clippers, knives and glue: can you guys give some tips on where to get these? Is it worth paying the GW premium for them? http://www.hobbylobby.com/ Pretty nice modeling section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 I started about 6 months ago. I've used revell plastic glue and found it be good (and cheaper than GW). I got the GW toolset and have used GW brushes. Not had a problem with brushes, clippers or knives, but no idea on competitor. Knifes a knife though. The mould line removed from GW is great though. Would recommend small glaze brush from GW if layering. Find it better than small layer brush. I'm still a massive noob myself and starting Ironjawz too very soon. But learnt massive amounts in short time. Get a white wall tile for paint palette. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillpill Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Thanks again all! So what are the essentials I should get? Plastic Glue Clippers (£17 for the Citadel ones seems VERY steep? Are they worth it?) Knife Which size brushes? What's a good mix? Also, in one of the painting tutorial videos the guy leaves the armor and head off the model first, is this recommended for a noob given that I assume I will then have to remove some of the paint again to glue the pieces on afterwards (Plastic Glue won't work if the area is painted, right?) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Have a look at some of the replies on my plug for extra tips - In terms of brushes I went for: M/L/XL base M shade S glaze L/S drybrush I have others including Rosemary and Co Kolinsky brushes which are supposed to be good, but I could get away with just the above for most things. The most recent episode of hard6 podcast mentions somewhere cheap for hobby knife and blades. Can't remember where they said, but good podcast so worth a listen. In same episode they mention GW clippers are some of the best. I've never assembled post painting though have regretted it because of hard to reach places post assembly. I've seen people use blue tack or liquid latex to cover contact points during undercoating and others just scraping off. Also, heard superglue will stick . it, but not tried. I'd suggest sticking on bases post painting as I've found it very hard to reach between legs with brush after. Slightly controversially I'd suggest that you do maybe the first 10 ardboys or even the cheap 3 sigmarines by sticking them together and just try stuff out. I've learnt a lot more by doing than being told and you'll pick up and decide what works for you. For example, if you glue after painting then you have to decide whether your going to tidy up gaps and that might mean you have to green stuff and repaint. Find out what works for you. On costs etc, the first leap in is super expensive on materials. I bought the Stormcast v Khorne starter and paid that again and quite a bit more for paints, tools, brushes, etc and really only had about 4 colours (base, layer + wash for each, so like 12). However, most stuff will last you ages after and it's only tiny top ups for brushes and the odd paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillpill Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Thanks really appreciate the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzaangor Management Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 I would also recommend some brush cleaner. I ruined a couple of brushes early on, which was completely avoidable had I been using something other than just water and giving the brushes a wipe. I've been using B&J: "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver, as this is what they had in my local art shop. It seems pretty good, although I'm not sure of the alternatives, so can't give you any comparisons, but I can say, in my limited experience, that it's making a difference to the lifespan of my brushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratrek Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 On 2017-04-09 at 4:49 AM, Tzaangor Management said: I've been using B&J: "The Masters" Brush Cleaner and Preserver For what it's worth, I've been using the same paint cleaner for years and it's never let me down. There are other good ones, but this one does what it says on the tin, lasts a good long while and it relatively inexpensive. I highly recommend it. I mean it only costs the same as one brush and it will extend the life of your paint brushes massively. Way more then buying one extra brush would. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kramer Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 On 4/7/2017 at 10:24 PM, Chillpill said: I will probably be hugely disappointed with my own end results but hey.... For what it's worth. Last summer I started painting again after almost 10 years of not touching a brush. IT's going to be hard at first, and might even be a bit frustrating. But do 10 models one by one and then compare the first to the last. You'll be amazed by the progression you've made. (also what worked for me was starting with 20 clanrats, models you don't mind if they are a little grubby). Just make sure you enjoy your progression and you will be fine. On 4/9/2017 at 0:42 AM, Chillpill said: Also, in one of the painting tutorial videos the guy leaves the armor and head off the model first, is this recommended for a noob given that I assume I will then have to remove some of the paint again to glue the pieces on afterwards (Plastic Glue won't work if the area is painted, right?) ? I have not painted any Orruks but I would leave the armour off. Same goes for any other obstructing bits you can glue on later. I have banished Plastic Glue and use 1-second glue for everything and while glueing painted parts should be less strong I have not run into any issues in the past 9 months. Good luck, have fun and if you start a plog people on this site will be very happy to help you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratamaplata Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 I highly recommend this paint set... http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/warpaints-mega-paint-set-iii I don't think you can get as many paints for the price any other way. They're also in dropper bottles which are way better than the GW pots with lids. Looks like they've improved the variety of colours in it since I bought the old set too. Although I just mix my colours in a wet palette so doesn't really make a difference. I've just returned to the hobby after 20 years out. Check out YouTube tutorials and you'll have a great start. You can check out my progress here... The most important part to producing good results, for me, is the wet palette... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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