Mr. White Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 My P3 superglue isn't working on this GW resin. What are you guys using? Oh, I'm in the United States, so a product on this side of the pond would be ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I had this issue. Ended up using pva and leaving it still overnight. It worked but was not the right method. Did some research and you need actual superglue rather than plastic superglue. Bought some but not tried it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BunkhouseBuster Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Yeah, there's not enough advice on working with resin models, at least not as much as there ought to be. That said, I've built a bunch of them over the years, and here are several tips and tricks that I have picked up from experience and research for working with resin models, and these tips will also apply to any pewter models you work with: Wash the pieces off when you get them. in warm, soapy water, using an old toothbrush or similar to scrub them. The models often still have the release agent from the casting process on them (think cooking spray but for model making). If this is still on the model, glue and paint may not stick to the model. Additionally, the dust from sanding and scraping the model can also prevent paint and glue from adhering to the model. I always wait until I am ready to assemble before washing. And make sure you rinse them really good! Green Stuff is your friend. Or any other two-part sculpting putty. I have found that sometimes Super Glue is not enough. So what I have been doing is taking a small amount of Green Stuff and putting it in the joints of the model during assembly. Doing that, the Green Stuff helps hold the pieces together while the glue dries and cures really well. Pinning joints together. This takes skill and caution, but is very useful, and almost required on certain models or joints. You use a small pinning drill, and use small metal rods (usually brass, but steel paperclips sometimes work) as a reinforcement to help hold the pieces together. Like how rebar can reinforce concrete, pinning a model increases a model's joint strength. And not just by being sturdy stuff, but it prevents the joint from moving if jostled or bumped. As for a brand of product to try? GW sells their own Super Glue, but I've heard mixed reviews on that. I use Gale Force 9 Super Glue since that is what my FLGS were selling when I started the hobby way back when. I have seen other more talented hobbyists than I use plain of Super Glue that you can get from Wal-Mart or Ace Hardware, though I have found these products dry out in the container a lot quicker than the modelling versions. Good luck, @Mr. White! Finecast is a ****** to work with, as are other resin miniatures. Finecast does take paint better than other resins that I have worked with, for what that's worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I purchased some 'liquid green stuff' - is this the same sort of thing as the 2-part floppy stuff? I'm saving it for tricky resin model assembly like you suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. White Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 i have liquid green stuff and have used it to fill gaps. I hadn't thought of using it as a bonding agent on resin models though. Maybe it'll work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuneBrush Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I've only done a few finecast models but a lot of Forge World. As @BunkhouseBuster says a good wash is normally the first port of call. I tend to use a combination of Gorilla Superglue Gel and Loctite Superglue for all of my resin models and never really had an issue, Gorilla two-part epoxy is also useful for large models (I'm talking monster sized). A gentle sand or scrape with a knife can help to rough the surface a little so that the glue has something to key into. One tip I will give is to give the whole model a coat of varnish before you undercoat (I tend to use Plastikote Clear Sealer, but Purity Sealer works). What this does is to put down a layer of lacquer that cuts through any grease and provides something for the undercoat to bond to. 3 minutes ago, Sheriff said: I purchased some 'liquid green stuff' - is this the same sort of thing as the 2-part floppy stuff? I'm saving it for tricky resin model assembly like you suggested. Sadly not, liquid green stuff is more along the lines of a paintable filler rather than a two-part epoxy. It's great for sorting out surface imperfections and small gaps., but I'd imagine that if glue isn't bonding then liquid green stuff likely won't either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 1 minute ago, RuneBrush said: Sadly not, liquid green stuff is more along the lines of a paintable filler rather than a two-part epoxy. It's great for sorting out surface imperfections and small gaps., but I'd imagine that if glue isn't bonding then liquid green stuff likely won't either. Drat, well I'll use it for that at least. The good news is that I shouldn't have to deal with finecast ever again, as only my general is made of it and he is done. I'll get some non-plastic super glue at Element then. Great having this place in walking distance (first world gaming problems) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aginor Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 My best tip is: Wash those models! I use water, dish soap, and a toothbrush to do that. Otherwise you'll get crazy when assembling them. I can't help you much with the superglue since I am German so I use UHU Super Glue (gel). I don't know if it is available in the USA but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuneBrush Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 2 minutes ago, Sheriff said: Drat, well I'll use it for that at least. The good news is that I shouldn't have to deal with finecast ever again, as only my general is made of it and he is done. I'll get some non-plastic super glue at Element then. Great having this place in walking distance (first world gaming problems) A lot of people aren't fans of liquid green stuff, but I've found it really useful for bits. If you snip a bit too close to a model and get a "nibble" out it'll fill that up easily enough, plus you can scrape and sand it unlike regular green stuff. I'm a big fan of Magic Sculp as an alternative to green stuff - it's kind of a mix of Milliput and Green Stuff Always a saving grace when you only need one or two finecast models! I think I've only Valkia for my Bloodbound If you've a Wilko's near you can pick up regular super glue pretty cheaply - though it'd be a shame to not at least look in Element if they're that close (not jealous at all ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 12 minutes ago, RuneBrush said: it'd be a shame to not at least look in Element if they're that close (not jealous at all ) Element Games is also right by the country's greatest Bargain Booze, stocked full of real ales, gins, etc from all over the world. Its winning awards. Also nearby is a tremendous pub that was a national pub of the year by CAMRA once, then split into 2 equally awesome pubs, right under a tremendous viaduct that is awesome by itself. Stockport is awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HobbyHammer Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Personally I use something called MitreFast link below, might be available in US as well. https://www.amazon.com/Everbuild-MITRE1IND-Mitre-Fast-Industrial/dp/B00BDTF0PW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507649040&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=mitrefast It is a 2 part you superglue one part and spray the other, it sticks within seconds though. Failing that, may sound weird but superglue one part and lick the other a lot (make sure you lick the non superglue part......haha), your saliva will act as an accelerator to the superglue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. White Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 12 minutes ago, HobbyHammer said: Personally I use something called MitreFast link below, might be available in US as well. https://www.amazon.com/Everbuild-MITRE1IND-Mitre-Fast-Industrial/dp/B00BDTF0PW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507649040&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=mitrefast It is a 2 part you superglue one part and spray the other, it sticks within seconds though. Failing that, may sound weird but superglue one part and lick the other a lot (make sure you lick the non superglue part......haha), your saliva will act as an accelerator to the superglue. A $30+ bonding solution!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HobbyHammer Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 13 minutes ago, Mr. White said: A $30+ bonding solution!? Fair... ok, see second suggestion of spit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Got it, I basically need to get a different type of glue, and lick my spiders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BunkhouseBuster Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 26 minutes ago, Mr. White said: A $30+ bonding solution!? You can get "accelerators" to make your Super Glue cure faster, I imagine that is what the spray can is. The brand Gale Force 9 I mentioned sells little spray bottles of it that you can use. It does make the assembly process go quicker, but man, does it stink! The fumes from that were worse than spray primers, blech! It's why I use the tiny dots of Green Stuff to help hold joints together. I recommend also having a steady supply of rubber bands and little clamps to help hold models and pieces together. These can be found for relatively inexpensive prices and are very handy for assembling pieces when the glue takes too long to cure. 45 minutes ago, HobbyHammer said: Personally I use something called MitreFast link below, might be available in US as well. https://www.amazon.com/Everbuild-MITRE1IND-Mitre-Fast-Industrial/dp/B00BDTF0PW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507649040&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=mitrefast It is a 2 part you superglue one part and spray the other, it sticks within seconds though. Failing that, may sound weird but superglue one part and lick the other a lot (make sure you lick the non superglue part......haha), your saliva will act as an accelerator to the superglue. 15 minutes ago, Sheriff said: Got it, I basically need to get a different type of glue, and lick my spiders. It's because of how the glue sets up. It's actually bonds to water and dries that way. Super Glue, or more technically called cyanoacrylate (or CA) glue, uses moisture in the are to cure. When I bought my first bottle of the stuff, the guy at the FLGS recommended that I breath on the models, that the moisture from exhaling would help the glue dry quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeusLeDieu Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I use grenstuffworld's own super glue for a few years now and it is exelent at glueing anything from forgeworld too your own fingers, thé gel is my personal fav. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ollie Grimwood Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I use a gel super glue. Put the glue on and push the two parts togeather (they hardly ever hold) if they fall apart put a drop of water on one of the glue covered bits and then push them torgether and they’ll hold. I use the same technique for supergluing plastic parts other non plastic stuff as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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