Jump to content

Fixing Gaps in Souls Wars miniatures


Recommended Posts

So I have the Soul War miniatures and both the stormcast and the nighthaunt have some significant gaps in them.  I tried clipping the pegs down but that didn't work and I used Army Painter Green stuff I had problems pushing it into the gaps because they are so small.  Any other solutions.  I have sausage fingers so fine motor work is hard...I know what a strange hobby to choose from with this ability but hey I still love it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few thoughts that might help:

1) Liquid greenstuff I find variable and never really liked. Instead try seeing if you can find some "Perfect Plastic Putty" by Delux Materials. It's basically a liquid resin for working with models. It comes in a tube and is fully liquid inside (and stays liquid until exposed to air to cure). You can work it into cracks and seams in a model and then let it dry off. If the area is exposed enough and the region around it easily allows it you can leave the material a little proud (standing out from the join) and then sand/file it down smooth once its fully cured (at least 24 hours). 

2) When working with any putties wet tools are essential. Because most are sticky to some degree so if the tools you are using are dry they will get stuck to them and you'll have a nightmare of a time. Instead get them wet and the water will give you a barrier that will prevent the sticking. You will have to wet them every so often so keep some nearby as you work. 

3) Colourshapers/clayshapers (different name, same product). I'm honestly surprised GW hasn't slapped their own brand on a set of these to sell as they are invaluable for any greenstuff (or similar material) work. They are basically silicon tipped tools that let you smooth over and work greenstuff (regular or liquid versions) into gaps and spaces and work and shape it to be smooth. It's a bit like using your fingers, only without the fingerprints being left behind. 

A set of black tipped ones (firmest) would be my recommendation (grey are middle and white are softest and all have their place); and the simple cone head is the one I use the most. This can help you smooth over the join area so that its more flush with the model surface. If the gap is deep into the model so that you can't sand off the area very easily then these tools can really help fill those cracks. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad to help - also I forgot to mention when working with any putties less is more. Always use a small amount each time as you can easily fill a gap with a little more; but its harder and a lot messier to try taking excess material out. If you've less motor skills then really use very tiny bits at a time. It might feel like its taking longer, but its the fastest and easier way to work.

 

Also note that good lighting really helps; a desk lamp or such can really add to the lighting even if you've got good light already 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I know about the light, I am down in the basement with no windows but my wife bought me this awesome LED light that I use for painting and before and after it was (prepare for a bad pun) night and day.  I would actually say that good light is the most important tool I have because it helps with all aspects of the hobby.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add my 2 cents to this: best thing to smooth parts or fill small joint lines is Milliput as it's water-soluble and can be sanded very well. Liquid Greenstuff isn't half as good. Magicsculp(t) is also very good, although it can't be made into a liquid like Milliput (with lots of water).

Black Clayshapers are truly amazing and size 0 is great for miniature work.

A good selection of FINE sandpapers is IMO also a must - I'm talking from grade 600 upwards. With sandpaper in the 800+ range you can also readily smooth epoxy putties like Procreate easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the gap is very fine, as I often found with the Soul Wars miniatures, you can use varnish to fill area and to cover over light seams of flash that might have been missed. Sometimes it takes a few applications to get the right level, but as the varnish is transparent, this can be done after painting if necessary and then worked over again.

The excellent Hobby Cheating series by Vince Venturella had a short tutorial video on it:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...