Redking

Skinks are always useful for screens, objectives, etc. Missed that about behemoths. Maybe remove the Stegadon and replace with some skinks and the Saurus unit. Maybe even add a 2nd starpriest.

You could try: Old One on Carnosaur Skink Starpriest (proxy until you buy) 3x units of 5 Cold Ones unit of 10x Temple Guard Stegadon Bastilidon Firelance Temple Host

Either Stormhost Silver or Runefang Steel. You could also drybrush a Necron Compound.

Looks like wraithbone and a recess shade of Seraphim Sepia. The painting app says Wyldwood, but I think that is too dark. You could also try Snakebite Leather as mentioned above. Then edge highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh, then white.

Probably just go with the normal black paint job and add some weathering powders. You might also try a Tyrant Skull drybrush to get the coloring you want, but the powders will give you a better dirty feel.

Depending on how much you are looking to spend starting out, I would recommend buying both Start Collectings. As mentioned above, the Goreblade gives you two battleline and it also has the Bloodsecrator. The other give you a Slaughterpriest and another unit of Bloodwarriors. I would skip Chaos Warriors. Remember, when you starting you are also going to need tools, glue, paints, and brushes. This is another $50+ added to your startup cost. Start slow and buy new units after you have painted/played what you have. Don’t get overwhelmed with piles of plastic.

Unfortunately, GW stopped making Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown. I didn’t see an equivalent to Rhinox Hide from Vallejo or Army Painter, but they both have an equivalent to Mournfang with Beasty Brown (VGC) and Fur Brown (AP). I didn’t see anything for Deathclaw, which I love for fur highlights. You could take a couple of pots with you to the hardware store and search the different sprays to see if something is close. Personally, if this is a bigger project (i.e. an army) , I would recommend investing in an airbrush. You can find some inexpensive starter kits and if you find that you like, you can gravitate to something more expensive. I mostly use mine for priming and simple base oats like what you are suggesting.

I sort of did this with Stormtroopers. However, I was using Corax White, then drybrushed them Praxeti before the Apothecary. When painting Clone Troopers, I switched to Tamiya Fine White Primer, then washed with Apothecary, and drybrushed Praxeti. Both came out fine but the Clones were easier because of fewer steps. In both instances, I used a makeup brush, which is so much better. If you are going for white, then I would recommend giving a zenith also of pure white because the Apothecary is more grey. Good luck.

@Heijoshin I decided to go the contrast route as an experiment and it is going pretty quickly. I wanted someth8ng to match my Nagash, which was painted along Duncan’s video. Prime Wraithbone, wash Skeleton Horde, drybrush Screaming Skull. Armor is Shyish Purple highlighted with Russ Grey and Fenrisian Grey, then washed Druchii Violet. Swords are Terradon Turquoise highlighted with Temple Guard Blue. Robes are Incubi Darkness and Ulthuan Grey, blended with Coelia Greenshade, then highlighted. The eyes get a couple coats of Waywatcher Green and the gems are Incubi Darkness highlighted up to Gauss Blaster Green. The squad took a few hours throughout the week. I was able to get through Feast of Bones in two weeks with only a few hours available each week. I would say for speed, contrast is the way to go for this army. It’s easy to add the highlights you want.

Vallejo Surface Primer with airbrush, Apothecary White, drybrush White Scar. Vader was pleased with my progress. Sorry for the off subject photo😀

I’ve used Vallejo white surface primer through the airbrush with Apothecary White on some Stormtroopers. There is not any kind of chemical reaction with contrast and primer. You just want a light primer. The color primer would depend of what contrast you are using. You also want to make sure there is a matching paint for touch ups.

All the pics I’ve seen are really dark or blurry because of motion. I think regular bone colors would work best with the green glowing eyes for spot color. The armor looks like it has a lot of verdigris, so Nihlakh Oxide to help age. Doesn’t look very rusty, though. Dark clothing would help set off the bronze and verdigris. Good luck.

Not really what you are looking for, but you can use this to compare your models and see if they are out of print. http://www.one-ring.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=15007 GW has been doing a lot of reprints and made to order, but not with everything. You might do a better job scouring eBay with the miniature or set name.

@Maturin I’ve been playing for over 25 years and as far as I can recall, GW tournaments used to always be 3 colors and based minimum. That was the rule up until ‘Ard Boyd, which kind of ruined the hobby for me for a while. As far as playing in the store, I see people playing casual with unpainted minis. However, they are usually new to the hobby or just bought something new for their army. While I would prefer to play against opponents who had painted armies, I can also enjoy playing against new people who are just learning. Battlefleet Gothic actually had a rule that your ships took a critical hit each turn if they weren’t painted. As for your Stormcast, it’s a good start. One suggestion I would have would be build up your black highlights prior to putting on the gold. After priming black, add a thinned layer of Eschin Grey, then drybrush Dawnstone. Add two coats of Nuln Oil and you could then add some edge highlights of Dawnstone, if you want to take it a step further. It’s a pretty simple process and will give you good results. Your other colors look spot on and that little bit of highlight will make them pop. Everybody has their different parts that they enjoy about the hobby. I personally hate building models and would prefer to just paint. The biggest thing is that the hobby is for both players and they both have to get enjoyment out of it. Good luck.

I bought a small white wood tray from hobby lobby and a foam sheet. Stained the tray to look nice. All for about $3. You can also look on Amazon, they have a lot. Depends on how large you want and the type. https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Folding-Hexagon-Leather-Dungeons/dp/B07L92TSMR/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Dice+tray&qid=1566650416&s=gateway&sr=8-10