Asheater Boyz or Bloodtoofs

[JayJay11]

Hello Megabosses!

I just wanted to introduce myself quickly. My Name is John and I'm from Germany. I've been playing Ironjawz since they came out and I enjoy the big Waaagh! I read a lot of your Articles here and finally I found my way to your community by signing up today.

What I have now for the Big Waaagh:

Megaboss on Maw-Krusha

Megaboss

2 Warchanter

Weirdnob Shaman

20 Ardboyz

6 Gore Gruntas

15 Brutes

I will add another box of Brutes and 2 Start Collecting Boxes in the future.

But my Question is... how to paint an easy and quick black armour? I would say my painting skills are a bit better then average but I'm not sure how to do this with a realistic result. Most of the Time I'm using the drybruhsing technique. I have not painted any of the ironjaw models. So I wanted to know from the better painters here, how to do the black armour...hope you can help me. I wanted to paint my Waaagh! in the Asheater Boyz painting scheme (my wife Plays Sylvaneth and has 1500 of her 4000 Points painted and I have Zero painted... frustrating). Or should I go for the bloodtoofs painting scheme? I like both of them. My Goal is here to paint the Models as fast as possible with good results. We have 2 Kids, so there is not much time I have to paint.

Looking Forward to your Answers and Thank you in Advance.

Greetings

John

[Malakree]

From personal experience I would definitely recommend wash and drybrushing. It provides a solid result without the level of effort that highlighting does.

With that in mind there's a couple of tips I can give.

First thing is pick what weapons you want on your ardboyz then cut off some of the spares and paint those first. You can use them to test a few different schemes and see what you like.

Second is washing. A thick layer of a wash will cause the same colour to look different. Noticeably so. This has a huge benefit in that washing requires a fraction of the precision that painting does. Use one or two base colours and different washes to provide the details, way easier.

Multiple drybrush coats are your friend. Specifically pick a single colour that will drybrush the entire model as the final coat, this gives a specific colour/tone to the entire model and unifies the paint scheme whatever it looked like before. Personally I use parraxi white for a snow effect but you could experiment with others, a grey is probably what you want.

The first coat of drybrushing is where you add the final split in different pieces.

To this end I want to suggest trying something like this.

Spray the entire model black, make sure it's a proper coat with no grey/plastic showing through. Possibly do it as 2 coats of spray.

Wash the skin with a strong green of some kind.

Wash the armour with a metal colour, nuln oil? Might have the wrong name.

Wash the bone with a brown.

Drybrush the skin with a heavy coat of underhive ash.

Drybrush the armour with a heavy coat of metal.

Drybrush the bone with a brown.

Do a light/medium drybrush of the whole model with the final colour you picked as the unifier.

This "should" give you a nice look with minimal effort. Again I use should because my own scheme is blues and white.

Get a drybrush for each colour, otherwise you will have the colours bleeding over each other and/or ruining the brush with massive amounts of paint.

Again I stress do some test runs. My models look naff on when I first paint them, I do an extra step of doing a layer before the wash, they look alright with the wash but it's the first/second drybrush which really make them pop.

I was going to get a "painting stages" set of pictures but in my rush to get them done for a tournament I forgot.

Hope this helped.

[JayJay11]

Thank you for your answer! It sounds really good and It should be an easy Goal to get good results with it. I hope I will find some Time this Weekend, so I will paint a Test Mini and share some pics

Have a great day!

[Malakree]

So this is an example of one of my models before I do the white drybrush.

The wood is all painted brown, the skin green, the cloak purple, the leaves red and  the blue areas are teal.

I then inked the leaves dark green and the rest of the model red.

The skin and the leaves were drybrushed Niblet green, then everything but the skin was drybrushed chronos blue.

When written out it sounds like a fair bit of work but in all honesty the first part was the hardest. The inking and drybrushing is what makes it not look awful and that bit is Super easy to do.

If you look at his left hand from the back. That's all waaagh flesh, caroberg crimson wash, Niblet green drybrush. Super easy for a really nice look.

Since I started I have been putting more work into each model, especially characters like the Wurrgog Prophet. Ironically he probably took me longer to glue together, stupid fine cast, than to paint.

[JayJay11]

Pretty Miniature! Nicely done. I painted my Wurgog Prophet in a similar colour scheme. I will try your tips at the Weekend. Maybe it sounds stupid, but I only have Problems in Painting Black Armour. Sure there is an really easy way in highlighting all the edges, but it tooks forever and ever to do that and my result was far away from looking realistic.

So I will try your tips and I'm sure it will be a success. Many thanks to your replies!

When the Miniature is finished, I will post a pic.

[Naflem]

8 hours ago, JayJay11 said:

Pretty Miniature! Nicely done. I painted my Wurgog Prophet in a similar colour scheme. I will try your tips at the Weekend. Maybe it sounds stupid, but I only have Problems in Painting Black Armour. Sure there is an really easy way in highlighting all the edges, but it tooks forever and ever to do that and my result was far away from looking realistic.

So I will try your tips and I'm sure it will be a success. Many thanks to your replies!

When the Miniature is finished, I will post a pic.

light necron compound on black might look pretty good.  I've made blackish metal on my ogres with a metal basecoat about about 3 coats of a black wash or (watered down ink really), it's different but I like it. 

[Lysandestolpe]

I haven't thoroughly read through what previous statements have been made, but my first question is how comfortable are you with line highlights? Black is pretty easy to work with, and what is gonna make the biggest punch on Ironjawz is the armor. So I'd say you want to have that be the cleanest on your model and not drybrush it.

1) Solid Abaddon black
2) Use a silver or grey to edge and line Highlights best you can, and clean up any thicker lines you get with some Abaddon black.

3) if chosing grey, you can always go a mid tone first and a brighter grey after to give it some extra punc: Mechanicus grey -> Dawnstone for example.
 

The rest you can drybrush and the model will still look pretty clean.

[Redking]

Might be worth looking at the Citadel Paint app.  If you want a clean black go Abaddon, edge with Eschin, wash Nuln, hit the edges with Dawnstone.  A faster version would be Abaddon, use the dry Dawnstone (lightly), shade Nuln, hit some points with layer  Dawnstone.  For bluish black use Stegadon Scale, shade Nuln, highlight Thunderhawk.  Dirty black, Abaddon, line Eschin, wash Agrax, hit some point with Stormvermin.

After all of these hit some edges and points with lead belcher for scratches.  You can touch these with some heavily thinned Scrag for some rust, then lightly highlight them with leadbelcher.

For super fast, spray with leadblecher and shade Nuln oil.  Then hit them in spots with the thinned Scrag and shade again with Agrax.  Lightly dry brush Necron Compound.