Rodiger

None of them are listed under 'last chance to buy'. I hope it's a reboxing with re worked stat cards.

Could it just be a reboxing?

That's good to know that cutting your opponent's deck is in use. There is nothing in the rules about it, and I wouldn't want to be making a scene at an event by demanding that we cut our opponents decks. Cutting a deck of cards before it is dealt is a good way of stopping cheating with minimum fuss.

I am currently painting some Rubrik Marines, and I have gone with the way shown in the GW painting guide, where you paint the gold trim first, then you paint the armour panels after. I have painted this way before many times, I have also painted the other way round many times, painting the armour panel first then the trim after. What do people prefer? At the moment I am wishing I had painted the armour first as it is really time consuming trying not to get the armour paint on the trim, but it is such a faff painting the trim the other way round. There are positives and negatives to both ways, just wonder what other people prefer.

Hi, I have a question about tournaments or even just pick up games. Basically as the title suggests, at a tournament do you cut your opponents decks of cards before they deal them? I haven't been to a tournament ,(none where I live, but if one comes up I will go) and I only play friendly games, so this isn't an issue as I trust my friends, but I wouldn't pass on that level of trust to random people, for instance I used to be a proficient card magician in my youth and quite honestly I could fix the cards I wanted to where I needed them while shuffling without anyone even noticing, I wouldn't do that as I abhor cheating, just if i can do that then lots of other people could too. Someone else cutting a deck after a shuffle is standard in normal playing card games, like Whist, Bridge, Cribbage, I just wonder about it for Underworlds.

To try and answer these questions. A lot of this depends on how you want to play, casual - get what you like, tournament - pretty much need everything. 1. The core set costs £40 pounds, in that you get 2 warbands with their own specific cards, as well as many of the universals you can't get elsewhere, you get 2 physical boards, dice, magic dice as well as the objective tokens and game tokens. Pricing that separately, 1 warband £17.50 Dice £6 Magic Dice £6 a board pack £15 you are talking £44.50 and you have 1 less board 1 less warband and no tokens. The core set I think is the best priced thing GW make. I think you would struggle to get the parts separately for cheaper, especially as these are GW prices and not from an online retailer. 2. I own everything, I'm not sure how empowered I feel, my thoughts have more turned to whether I have a plastic crack addiction. I find it overwhelming making decks now as I have so many cards to look through, it takes ages. You don't need everything, you can probably find the cards you need individually but making a deck involves trial and error trying cards, swapping them out, finding new combos. Really you aren't going to want to play the same deck all the time anyway, you will want to make different kinds. Sorry this answer is a bit all over the place, I suppose it depends on how far you want to go. Buying the core set will give you enough cards to make some good decks though. 3. I own these sets too, I honestly think these are probably only worth it for playing tournaments and for completists. 4. The original box sets contents were split into the boards available to buy separately, as well as the two warbands split into solo boxes with their faction specific cards, their universal cards were released as a separate deck to buy for the people who already owned the original core set. 5. In a nutshell Nightvault warbands use magic dice, the shadespire ones don't. The faction specific dice a purely cosmetic, I don't play the Chosen Axes but I bought their dice as I liked the orange. They aren't essential at all. You want to play with Godsworn Hunt so you would need some magic dice. Basically I would recommend buying the core set, buy the Godsworn Hunt, try some decks from this collection of cards. The go from there. Also warbands you might like the look of might not play how you want to play, there is huge sway to how you can get a warband to play, but sometimes they just won't fit how you want to, having three warbands that play three different styles is a good way to experiment. Also all the warbands are really nice models and a pleasure to paint. I hope that helps.

I don't see how it makes it biased, if Owen had liked the game he would have said so in the review. GW sent them a copy of the game for an honest review, if they had not enjoyed it and then said they loved it, it would be a biased review.

There's a lot of hate on here for the gmg review of this game, but for me it is a good review. I had serious reservations about this game before seeing any play throughs or review and Owen confirmed a lot of them. They are basically professional wargame players as they have wargame channels providing their income, they play alot of games and i respect their opinion. The name of this thread is 'killteam/mordhiem?' We have had so little information for so long that how can anyone say it should be this way or that way. I have pre ordered the starter and i will play it and make my own opinions, i really like the snake handlers and the bird men and will probably buy them, but i am not convinced it is a good game yet. They have played it, and they have no agenda to say it is great or rubbish, they are just saying what they feel after a number of play throughs.

@Shane Thanks for the links, I had watched that play through and was watching the Let's Talk. The let's talk is quite negative about the game, but it raises the points that had me worried, mainly the move to the centre and roll dice, not actually a lot to do, and for me personally coming from playing Necromunda, the campaign seems awful. There are still 4 other factions, they apparently have different styles of play so this may affect how it plays, the Necromunda box looked really bad for Escher when it was released, due to a mismatch with Golaiths and awful writing of the rules for Toxin. When other gangs were released it changed a lot of that. I was basically sold on this from unboxing videos, I'd pretty much decided not to buy it before then, but I have a couple of friends who this might be good to play with, I can't play full on miniature games with them, but could probably play this. I did have in mind that if this game wasn't good I could use it for Mordhiem, or frostgrave. They might release a more detailed campaign book for it in the future, Kill Team has loads of expansions. So at the moment, looking like I probably shouldn't have pre ordered it, but I won't be disappointed with the box when I open it, I'm still happy with my Kill Team one, despite me not liking that game at all.

I have a question to people who got to play warcry. I've already pre ordered the game btw I'm not here trying to slag it off, it looks great. How much is it just move you models to the middle then roll dice until somone wins? This was my big problem with kill team, it was just dull. Games like necromunda and shadow war didn't have this problem as they were bigger play areas, (reduced size equals faster games but less room to do anything,) and you either won and you lived, or you lost and died, there was rarely congestion over multiple turns. Apparently there are like 40 million combos but if they all end up as move to the middle and roll dice until someone wins then it will be dull. I've watched 2 play throughs and they were both kind of like that. Thanks

That's a good point about the space consideration, seems weird that making a pair of legs in 2 parts would free up space but it must if they keep doing it. I have been very impressed recently with how much they get on a sprue, I bought some big models thinking there will be loads of sprues in the box but there is only like 2 or 3. You can totally tell the age of a kit just by looking at the amount of space on sprues, as with the lack of mould lines. I don't know if you saw the Kal Jericho and Scabs sprue but my first thought when I saw that was it looked like a 20 year old one because of how much space was there. I wish GW would do some behind the scenes of their factory and the actual technical side of making the models, could be concerned about trade secrets though. Edit. I've just had a look at that Kal Jericho and Scabs sprue and they both have a leg cut off, but there is loads of space all over that sprue. Quite strange.

I was building some Rubric Marines today and I was wondering why on the sprue quite often 1 leg, or half a leg is a separate bit, this isn’t anything specific to Rubric Marines, I’ve seen it on lots of kits, it was just this one that got me wondering. Does anyone know why the sprue is built like that? It just seems strange as many pairs of legs on kits are complete. There are actually many things that puzzle me with the decisions taken with how they break up the models, some are obvious, so you can change the pose, but this is a single pose. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the completed legs would be too wide for the mould, but I’m sure there are wider parts on kits.

I don't have any of those, problems with buying blind on release I suppose, I went with orc flesh as it sounded right. I picked up some contrast medium today though, I was going to get the white and a few others, but the combined price of my basket was just sky rocketing, those contrasts are expensive. So you just mixed them together in equal parts? What was your base colour? Did you do any other layers over the top? Are the whole models done with contrast? They are really good, they are a great advert for contrast, I have seen some stuff that makes me think I was crazy for buying them.

@flemingmmaI already have some spare orks and grots I can experiment on. I'm just trying to save a bit of time. I mean there are so many options to try and find the best look with, I only want to do the skin with contrasts so priming the whole model white is probably not a good idea, then which colour to use for the base, the wraithbone or grey seer, a light green. Then there's a learning curve with contrast, how much to put on, do I need to thin it etc. Then do I highlight again after that, at this point if I'm putting a base colour over the primer then highlighting over contrast would I be saving any time at all. @Minis by Night Thanks for the link, they are very much test models, have you done any more on any of them? @Sleboda He looks good! What was your recipe for the skin? Those guys behind him too.

Has anyone painted any orc/goblins with contrasts yet? I have been working on a project re imagining Space Crusade for a while now, and I have got to the point where I need to paint the Orks and Gretchins/Grots. There are quite a lot to do, on the one hand I would love the time saving aspect of contrast for the skin, but on the other I've put a lot of time and effort (not to mention money) into this project so I don't really want to use them as my practice/learning models for Contrast, I've been trying to paint everything to quite a high standard, and from what I've seen of contrast is a complete range from just plain awful paint jobs to some amazing ones, and I don't want these to look awful if it doesn't go well. So really I'm asking for peoples examples, or opinions about it, or combinations like the orc flesh contrast over a green base paint, any other advice, that sort of thing, before I commit one way or the other. Thanks

Just thought I'd share my completed collection. Started painting the Nightvault Warbands about 6 weeks ago. I have limited painting time due to family and work so I'm pretty happy I managed to get these all finished, practically speed painting by the end. I have really enjoyed painting most of these, the sheer variety has kept it interesting. I will say that despite the bases being pretty cool, I wish they were all Shadespire themed rather than the world of the race they are from. I have my Shadespire terrain in there made from the Mausoleum, and the Nightvault ones too.

Just curious really, I own all of them, but is that the norm, have a got a plastic crack problem. I just wonder what the average is.

I haven't played a game with Godsworn Hunt yet (haven't had a chance), but I was thinking of a tactic to do with Oath of Conquest, and Oath of Denial. I was thinking if you declare one and keep the other secret, then this might make your opponent move their fighters into the other area. For example if you declare Oath of Conquest and move your fighters into their territory, they should stay in their own territory or follow you back there to stop you gaining this card, by doing so removing their fighters from your territory meaning you can score Oath of Denial. All this depends on you drawing the cards obviously and at good times, has anyone tried this? Also has anyone doubled up with the cards, so Oath of Conquest and normal Conquest?

Great stuff, I am pleased you are getting some use out of the rules, it sounded like an interesting tactical battle.

I thought I'd post a couple of pictures for a size comparison sake. I use some Lord of the rings models for Frostgrave, personally I think they look too small compared to the new Age of Sigmar models. Gandalf and Elrond are taller models too.

I've re uploaded the file. Not sure why it isn't there any more. I haven't worked on this since I originally posted it. Tell me what you think if you try it out. Extra Adversaries for Warhammer Quest Silver Tower.docx

@foolsama Yor 'Ard Boys aint so 'ard, mine 'ud 'ave dem. I'm curious do you play with those rules for 'Ard Boys? I used Tzaangors as the base for 'Ard boys, I thought they needed to be harder than the normal Orruks from the Greenskinz. I did hum and haw over the 4 damage for the Big Choppa, but it is just 1 attack and it needs a 5+ to hit so it is unlikely to actually kill a Hero, there is a save too, but it is an interesting tactical choice of who you should concentrate on. I made the characters like mini bosses, they have 10 vigour and lots of attacks, the Ogroid Thaumaturge has 9 vigour from an unexpected event and the Skaven Deathrunner has 13 so there is precedent for that. With regard to Cavalry, it is included in just about every Start Collecting Box, they shouldn't really be in a dungeon I agree, but it is a waste not to use them, and most boxes would be a bit bare without them for an encounter table. It would be great to make an encounter table for every faction with adversaries that made sense, but I think the cost is too high, with the Start Collecting boxes it is a one off cheapish expansion. The exotic adversary slot is planned to be used for other adversaries from that faction. These would be an optional choice if you want to buy them or already have them. I like your card for Orruk Brutes and your rules, I'd make them harder myself. The rules in the expansion are supposed to be hard, this has come out of me finding Silver Tower a bit easy and wanting to fight some classic monsters, maybe I should work on an easy set of rules too.

Hi, I have made rules for all of the units in the Start Collecting Boxes barring Skaven, I have not play tested any of these rules, I do not have much game time at the moment and I do not own all of the models. I would like to ask for help by people trying out the rules, tell me what you think, give me feedback and hopefully we can iron out any kinks and make a decent rule set for expanding the game. I may have made some glaring errors, some units just may not work, but I think most should and offer a new challenge. Please be aware I made these so they were harder than the base game and 4 heroes should probably be taken. There is a more detailed explanation in the document Thanks Extra Adversaries for Warhammer Quest Silver Tower.docx