Weazel

Stormsire's Cursebrekers Not 100% satisfied with them considering time spent. But at least they're done. All metallics (including turquoise armor) are made with Contrast paints on top of silver. Edit: This forum scales these too small tbh. A closeup of Stormsire:

Mollog's Mob

1:1 mix of Militrum Green and Contrast medium has worked nicely for my Gitz. Probably going to use the same recipe for my Orksies.

They stick well enough and go well through my airbrush (30ish psi). However I've noticed that they do not hold against intentional scraping with a sharp & solid tool (like fingernails). I suppose if you want bulletproof primer you need a rattle can but that means a slightly thicker layer which might obscure fine details. I prefer the AB for the sake of convenience: I can prime regardless of weather conditions (or time of day). I do varnish after contrast paints because sadly they do not hold at all against any kind of touch. That said I highly recommend some form of painting handle to avoid rubbing the paint off while working on your models. Corks are good and affordable for bigger batches.

Thanks, glad you like them. For priming I am actually using Vallejo surface primers through an airbrush, so I can't really say how well the citadel products work. But my method is black primer from a downward angle first (I would actually recommend a dark grey primer instead of black but I only have black available). After that a horizontal or slightly above horizon of USN Light Ghost Grey (the darkness is similar to Grey Seer but it's a tad colder. The contrasts are very vibrant so I haven't noticed any "coldness" in the colors over this particular primer). Finally I hit them with white primer straight from above or very slightly angled. Now like I said I'm not using citadel priming products so I can't say if they would behave differently with contrasts, however I've not run into any issues so far. Hope this helps.

Just dropping my 2c after a week or so of contrast painting. They are absolutely brilliant. I haven't had this much FUN with painting since I started airbrushing. I'm getting so much stuff done that would have taken me ages to finish with conventional methods (or to be frank, would probably have remained unpainted). Now I'm not a beginner painter by any means, I'd probably rate myself in the late intermediate stage (and to be honest I just don't have the time nor patience to push into advanced territory). But I just wanted to put it out there that contrast paint jobs do not "need" additional highlights and shades to qualify as passable playing figures. I'm adding a couple shots here to illustrate my point. These are pure contrast paint jobs (one coat) over a zenithal prime. Only things layered are the dots on some of the mushrooms, otherwise it's just Contrast Magic (tm). Edit: Seems the forum scales these down quite a bit, here are the links for bigger versions (should they work): Picture 1 & Picture 2

Drop the Madcap, take Sneaky Snufflers, switch 15 Hoppers to Bounderz, and divide the remaining battleline into three slots and we're getting close to the list I'm thinking about. 2000 pts on the dot.

I'd prefer this over grey plastic every day of the week... I mean if you're painting minis just for playing this quality is just tremendous, especially considering time spent. And you can always go to town with precision shading and further highlighting if you want to take it up a notch.

Even if it is "just ink washes with medium X" they are still offering a wonderful selection of colours. For me, and probably a few others, price or money is a secondary consideration within the hobby. Saving some of that precious free time is invaluable. That said I'm really looking forward to buying a good helping from the Contrast range.

Anyone got any insight whether the pigments in Contrast paints are somehow special or is it just the Contrast Medium that does the magic? I guess what I'm asking is, do you think it's possible or even "easy" to mix your own Contrast paints from layer paints and medium when you need some of the rarer colours...? I like the effect but don't really think I need all the colours. I mean they're not cheap but Warhammer isn't cheap anyway so it's a rather moot discussion. More likely I'd face a lack of shelf space for all them pots.

Of course. They are Mountain Tufts by The Army Painter.

Oh man Wednesdays go by so fast! Late post but the pic was taken yesterday. WIP Fungoid Cave Shaman:

Well, as a disclaimer I am not super experienced on painting pure whites, but the key is to avoid painting pure white. That is, use an off-white color as base and only use pure white as highlight color. If you base paint your robes or cloaks with pure white, you cannot highlight it any further, meaning you will end up with a finish that lacks all depth. Also bear in mind that big white (non-organic) surfaces do not take washes well either, you'll end up with a stained look. So what I would actually try to do is start basing your white with the "darkest" color you would want to see in the recesses. Note that this doesn't actually have to be a dark color at all. If you want a warm white finish, then something like Rakarth Flesh base, followed by progressive highlighting with Pallid Wych Flesh and finally White Scar on the very highest of highlights. If you want a more neutral white then use Celestra Grey-Ulthuan Grey-White Scar. For a colder grey maybe something like Fenrisian Grey-Blue Horror-White Scar. You'll have to experiment and you will have to learn how to blend or glaze some of the colors in to get those smooth transitions. Good luck!

Wednesday again. I may have gotten a bit hooked on a certain video game, so hobby progress has been a bit slim lately, but this week I made some progress. WIP Troggboss: Still missing a few details here and there and obviously the massive hammer but we're getting there. I much prefer this pose to the "actual" Troggboss pose. I'm only going to include one Dankhold model in my army so that's hopefully not going to confuse anyone. Oh and by the way painting those barnacles and mushrooms etc with a paintbrush is tedious. Couldn't really utilize my airbrush on those so they took a couple of hours just to basecoat thoroughly... but they're done now! Happy days

Which shades did you mix? I'm sure the wet palette was not the culprit; some shades dry somewhat glossy, especially if not shaken well (dunno if there is a gloss medium involved in the shade to help it flow better or something). Try shaking the pots/bottles well before mixing. You can always tone down the glossiness with a varnish. Hope this helps.