grungolah Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I have Skeleton Horsemen from an ancient time (equipped with lances and bows), 2 chariots (all lances) and the Black Coach, all with the old horses (15-16 in all). I also have leftover Black Knight(?) parts from assembling Hex Wraiths. I have discovered that the black knight parts fit on the skeletal horses, making for a very trivial conversion. The question is, should I upgrade or not given that the conversion is technically free? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastdarkness Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 If you think it looks good then do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanatos Ares Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I would as in competitive play Skeleton Horsemen are no longer legal. which is a shame as I think they're way way better than Black Knights *sigh* oh well post some pics please!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grungolah Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Certainly. But before I commit, I have to try magnetizing them. The black knight parts slip right over the head of the horse. The horse is a little shorter than the hex wraith, which will not be noticed when I scoot these over to oval bases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgregs Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I'm actually doing the exact same thing. Using the left over black knight bits with some very old skeleton horses. They look surprisingly good when assembled. Just trim off those tabs that connect the raised hooves to the base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillofNagash Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 7 hours ago, Thanatos Ares said: I would as in competitive play Skeleton Horsemen are no longer legal. which is a shame as I think they're way way better than Black Knights *sigh* oh well post some pics please!!! Why would Skeleton Horseman not be playable in a competitive game? They have a points value and are completely legal, unless I am missing something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grungolah Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 The tabs are the only source of strength on the model, so they go at the end. Magnetizing works, so in the end, I won't have to give up my skeleton horsemen. The operation was very uncomfortable for the skeleton. Will need more magnets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jgregs Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I just based the old skeleton horses on to new oval bases using GW plastic glue. The only two points of connection are the hooves that are touching the base. Its actually pretty strong. That old white plastic is stronger than the new grey plastic in modern kits. I will take some pics when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thanatos Ares Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Sorry should have been clearer 2 hours ago, WillofNagash said: Why would Skeleton Horseman not be playable in a competitive game? Being compendium a lot of tournaments don't allow them is what I meant. I didn't mean all competitive play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grungolah Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Not bad for eventually $5 in bases. Will magnetize the horsemen when I get supplies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastdarkness Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Looks great so far, I just hate how much you have to buff Black Knights to make them better then Dire Wolves. Im myself am playing with the left over bits to see about making a mounted Wight King and Mounted Necromancer (Converted from Chaos Lord parts) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themortalgod Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 On 10/10/2017 at 12:26 PM, Jgregs said: That old white plastic is stronger than the new grey plastic in modern kits. I will take some pics when I get home. I have found the opposite. I recently bought a ton of used skeleton sprues for cheap and the white plastic is ridiculously brittle, I can't believe how many skeleton arms or legs snap off when I barely touch them, and its always the white plastic. Just picking up a model holding his spear has broken a few, the weight of the small plastic model has been enough to break it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grungolah Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 Bases ordered. Guy didn't seem to understand AoS bases, so I hope they are oval. Magnets are a go, and so are base coats. I always liked choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lastdarkness Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 1 hour ago, grungolah said: Bases ordered. Guy didn't seem to understand AoS bases, so I hope they are oval. Magnets are a go, and so are base coats. I always liked choices. Nice, you using sepia or agrax on the bones? is that plain leadbelcher on the armor? are you using kantor blue on the cloth? Im getting ready to paint some skeletons but im actualy at a loss for what I want to do. Im thinking purple cloth or blue with alot of nuln oil. But for armor I cant deceide if I want to go the leadbelcher+typus corrosion+ryza rust effect or the warplock bronze+syscorax bronze+ninhilek oxide look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grungolah Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 39 minutes ago, lastdarkness said: Nice, you using sepia or agrax on the bones? is that plain leadbelcher on the armor? are you using kantor blue on the cloth? Im getting ready to paint some skeletons but im actualy at a loss for what I want to do. Im thinking purple cloth or blue with alot of nuln oil. But for armor I cant deceide if I want to go the leadbelcher+typus corrosion+ryza rust effect or the warplock bronze+syscorax bronze+ninhilek oxide look. Oh my, I have so many sins to confess! The first being, that you are not looking at washes... I will wash the armor with Dark Tone from Army Painter, but that's all I will do. I haven't done that yet, except on the champion Black Knight. I believe one truth about washes: they slow me down. I would rather paint up from shadow. Those skeletons ribcages are dry-brushed, but with a detail brush. The skulls are carefully highlighted, but the rest is dangerously casual. As for color choices... make sure your kids leave the room. You want to teach them right! Spoiler Primer: Not really primer... Krylon Gloss Saddle Brown, because I have 2 cans of the stuff and I cant just throw it in the trash. (Martha Stewart paints unless otherwise noted, because I am cheap and have occasionally painted with 40-50 different colors on one model) Bone: Chestnut Brown (base), Sycamore Bark (first highlight), Putty (blended with Sycamore Bark to get 2-3 more highlights), and if the bone is in shadow, Vanilla bean Blue robes: True Blue (Americana brand, base), Deep Sea (shadow), Wild Blueberry mixed with Putty (highlights). The base color is basically gone when I am done. Armor: Black Nickel (awesome color, base), Dark Tone (wash), Titanium (highlight while wash is wet, gets all the shades in between) Eyes: Diving Board (fluff reasons, barely shows up) I have a dozen other colors picked out for vines, the banner, armor insignia, horns, etc. And that's just for "bonus model" cavalry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grungolah Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Wow, my special order just doesn't seem to come in, but I did find some bases, learn how to apply static grass, and finally finish this first set. Eventually, my nighthaunts come in, and turn this into a full size army. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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