SlyRebirth

A little update - I extended the same colour range to the beard stuff around his face. Not sure if I'll keep it all like this when I'm done, but nice to see the tones extended out over a longer space. Yet to do any detail, or a wash/highlight pass, but I really want the colours to stand out against the browns of the wood. I've used green-yellow range in other models, but I'm hoping this will bring more variety.

To kick things off - my current army (almost finished) is Sylvaneth. I started off with Allarielle and followed Duncan's video, but from then on I followed my own path. I'll go through my paint lists and post a few models in due course, but a quick snippet to start with: While the Dryads and Treeman leaves are nice and spring-fresh in shades of green to yellow, I wanted to mark out the Ancient as, well... older. So I decided to give him more autumnal colours by way of contrast. So in a spare moment (!) today I did a little test on the larger leaves hanging off the staff. I used quite a range to get a dynamic contrast, in the following order, from middle to outside of the leaf: Xereus Purple Screamer Pink Khorne Read Mephiston Red Evil Sunz Scarlet Wild Rider Red Squig Orange Jokaero Orange Averland Sunset So... these are bigger leaves than the normal ones growing out of the body, but probably overkill all the same. Ultimately I decided that XP/SP were probably a step too far on one end, so I repainted starting with KR, building out the main body of the leaf through to SO. Then the edges just highlighted with JO (more recessed edges) and AS (for tips of edges). This repaint worked more effectively, I think. It's not particularly neat, so I'll go back and improve, but from 12" away the effect is reasonably striking. For the smaller leaves, I will likely just use KR/MR/WRR/JO/AS stages.

Hi folks I don't often post here, but I've been a member for a long time. In the past year my attention to the hobby has been completely transformed - from reading other threads/Twitter/etc I don't think I'm alone in that, usually thanks to the Duncan guides Anyway, as I've progressed with practice and guidance on better technique, I've been looking at ways to try to get the best results from my limited skill - and this led me to consider painting in sub-assemblies. I've found overall results so much better when painting certain elements before assembly, because it can get tricky just getting the brush into less accessible places once glued (eg inside of cloaks, etc). However, I couldn't find any recommendations for what sub-assemblies work out most effectively, and a couple of times I've spent a lot of time trying to figure this out. So I thought I'd share my experience with each model I build/paint, in case it's useful to others who want to quickly see which sections to build. I have no idea if this will *actually* be useful to people, so all comments welcome. I'll start with an easy example of something I'm working on now - Vanguard Hunters, assuming building from the box of ten. Steps 1a (x2), 1c (x2), 1e (x2), 1g (x2), 1i (x2) - this is lower torso and legs. I've missed out the intermediate steps, since this is sticking them to the base, and I tend to find it much easier to do the basing, then stick the model on afterwards. But this is obviously personal preference IMPORTANT NOTE: When you add the arms on to every model, make sure to dry-align the cloak as well. Although you don't want to stick the cloak on, you do want to make sure that the connection areas on top of the shoulders will align. If you don't do this, the cloak won't sit properly at the end (this is something I learned from experience...) Hunter Prime: 8a (rope and hook) NO; 8b YES; 8c YES except cloak; 8d NO; 8e NO - follow similar principles with alternative build for 8f-8j. So you should have body, legs, head, arms and weapons all built; not the rope, cloak, shoulder pads or pad tassels (you can add the pad tassels to the pads as a separate assembly). Hunter with Astral Compass: 9a (sword/axe on belt) NO; 9b YES; 9c YES except cloak; 9d NO; 9e YES - So you should have body, legs, head, arms and weapons all built; not the belt weapon, cloak or shoulder pads. Hunter 1: 10a NO; 10b YES; 10c YES except cloak; 10d NO; 10e YES - So you should have body, legs, head, arms and weapons all built; not the belt pouch, cloak or shoulder pads. Hunter 2: 11a NO; 11b YES; 11c YES except cloak; 11d NO; 11e YES - So you should have body, legs, head, arms and weapons all built; not the belt pouch, cloak or shoulder pads. Hunter 3: 12a NO; 12b YES; 12c YES except cloak; 12d YES except shoulder pads - So you should have body, legs, head, arms and weapons all built; not the belt pouch, cloak or shoulder pads. Hunter 4: as Hunter 3 Hunter 5: as Hunter 3 So this is an example; thoughts on collecting new kits in this way as part of this thread?

Is it possible/allowed to come along to spectate? I've never been to an event before, and would like to understand it all a bit better before taking the leap...

Great, thanks. From what you've seen, are the points well-balanced?

Is Pitched Battle closer to Clash/SCGT or WHFB 8th edition in terms of how points are structured?