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Forgeworld Clear Paints and Shading


MortarchCapa

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Hi all!

Ive recently had an awesome time painting some 40k necrons for someone with a basecoat of leadbelcher, then using the clear airbrush red lacquer from forgeworld. It really gives a cool look! 

My question is this: As necrons dont have much in the way of curves and 'shade-able' detail, I applied the lacquer directly to the base colour, HOWEVER; Im now wanting to use the blue version (Calth Blue) over a leadbelcher base as a base armour colour for some stormcast eternals. Im in two minds as to whether I should preshade some of the detail with nuln oil before using the clear paint. Ive seen the demo model in forgeworld which was straight over a plain leadbelcher base and it looks like the lacquer shades for you as you go, but I dont know if itll work on models such as the stormcast. 

 

Has anyone else used them before on 'curvy' models?

 

Thank you all!

- Mortarch Capa  

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I think I know what might help you here. There's a colour called "Shading Grey" that Golden do which is basically a sprayed grey glaze. Since it isn't actually a colour all that you're doing is applying a grey filter so the colour retains its properties. You can spray the lacquer straight on and then use the shading grey either painted or sprayed on to add shade.

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2 hours ago, MortarchCapa said:

So I gave your method a try Lucio and here is the base coloured tester model for my own homebrew Stormcast force (based on the celestial vindicators) called the Knights of the Tempest. Thanks for your help! 

 

PS: Any other advice or constructive criticism is welcome ;) 

27990296_10156293772133203_2052996448_o.jpg

That looks great, hadn't thought of using Stormcast but it's a good idea and pretty quick too

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I've used these a lot on my Imperial Knights/Ad Mech.  Using two silver colours is pretty important, just focus the lighter silver in the middle of the panels.  Then you want to use colour theory to build up the preshade rather than just black.  I  For example on red you'd want to use blue followed by green in the shadows before applying the red.  For a smaller model doing blue, I reckon you could get away with using purple.  The theory being that the 3 primary colours layered on top of each other will give you black.

C5TVN1MWYAAbuIP.jpg:large

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