Zhorphorus Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Hi All! I'm planning on starting a Stormcast army soon and I thought it'd be a great time to get an airbrush and learn how to use one! I currently have the following list of things I'm going to get and paints I want to use, please let me know if I'm missing anything or if I'm going to do something wrong that could clog up my airbrush etc. Neo for Iwata TRN1 https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_1_299&products_id=21658&osCsid=iup5al376f05b60bohg70ejiq0 Neo Air for Iwata https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=2_340&products_id=21399 Iwata Spray Out Pot https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_14_30_417&products_id=22564 Alclad II Gloss Black Base Primer https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=22480 Alclad II Pale Gold https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_4_429_461_462&products_id=22455# Now I know a little that I will possibly need some sort of thinner and/or cleaner fluid? Also I was expecting to prime the entire model with the black primer straight onto the plastic then use normal GW paints over it, am I able to do this? Thanks very much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
menacingeye Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Congrats on getting an airbrush! I just got the same compressor as you, but went with the dual action iwata neo airbrush. You definitely need to pay attention to the 10 minutes of use at a time on the compressor. You really don't want to risk damaging it. You might want to get Vallejo surface primer instead of the all clad stuff, since it's acrylic and you won't need to worry about having heavy duty cleaner to clean your brush out with. Vallejo also makes great airbrush thinner and airbrush flow improver that you'll need to help with thinning your paints so they won't dry and clog your airbrush. I just use whatever brand of airbrush cleaner that's at my local art supplies store, you'll need qtips as well for cleaning. I'd also recommend grabbing a cleaning pot to use to spart the cleaner into to keep fumes down. Anyways hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuneBrush Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 A few suggestions on your list The Neo is a very solid airbrush, a real workhorse and one I know a lot of the Forge World guys use. Is there any particular reason you've gone for the trigger version? For miniatures we tend to go for the classic double action as you can control the airflow in addition to the paint flow through the button. That compressor I'd avoid. It's great if you were painting faces or doing nail art, but for a batch of miniatures it's not really got enough welly. I frequently do hour-long airbrush sessions (think my record is 4). Instead I'd suggest something that also has a reservoir tank - basically the compressor charges the tank and then the airbrush uses the air in the tank, which results in a much more consistent flow. I use this compressor, which also has the benefit of a moisture trap (pretty essential). Iwata is very premium brand - so will cost a fortune for no real benefit. Have a look at this airbrush cleaning kit, which contains a disposal pot and some brushes and other bits (though I'd avoid using the nozzle reamer as it can damage the nozzle really easily). There's a massive range of similar products out there. Paint wise, @menacingeye is spot on. Alclad is enamel based so pretty toxic and evil to clean out your airbrush. Vallejo model primer comes in a range of colours and I can't fault it (though I still prefer a rattle can). I tend to pick up the black, white and grey in the large bottles and have some other colours in the regular 17ml versions. Cleaners and thinners are a bit of a minefield. My general rule of thumb is to use Vallejo Model Air Thinner for Vallejo paints and Forge World Solution for Citadel paints, although you can feasibly use either cleaner for either paint. For cleaning I use a similar principal and Vallejo Model Air Cleaner for Vallejo paints and the same Forge World Solution for Citadel paints. I've also got a can of this stuff, which is the most caustic substance known to man, but will sort out any stubborn paint (don't put it straight into the airbrush else it'll melt any seals). Cotton buds (q-tips) and a roll of kitchen towel are pretty much essential items, but I quite like a towel to put over my lap incase of spills or if you drop any airbrush parts whilst cleaning. I'd also say interdental brushes and some soft pipe cleaners are really useful. A few things I've picked up over the years is that most paints require thinning, even the dedicated airbrush paints. Vallejo Model Air goes through a lot more smoothly if you use a few drops of thinner. The exception to this is the amazing Vallejo Metal Color range, which are the nicest range of metallics I've ever come across - they work straight out of the bottle and are comparable to Alclad metals - even more so if you use the gloss black primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uselesswizard Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I too would caution against the use of any lacquer based paints like Alclad, at least until you've got a high quality face mask (I'm talking the face masks that look like the lower half of a gasmask, with detachable filer canisters. a doctor's mask is going to be useless again the fumes.) and you've built up your airbrushing skills. As for primers, I personally use Vallejo Surface Primers, but I'm quickly changing over to Badger's Stynylrez airbrush primers. They are also acrylic and come in several different colors. The main concern I have is that the compressor you've got can only pump out 15 psi. That might be enough for Alclad which is maybe why you're going with those paints, but you'll have a really hard time getting a good amount of acrylic paint through at 15 psi, especially primers. I would really recommend a larger compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhorphorus Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Thanks so much for the responses guys! I am going to look into some other stuff as you have all recommended and come back to see what you all think! Just a quick question, I was going with Alclad 2 Pale Gold as I really like that finish, have you got any suggestions of a paint that has a similar colour/finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 I've long toyed with the idea of getting an airbrush, so I hope @Zhorphorus won't mind if I jump in here with my own questions for @RuneBrush and @uselesswizard. Basically, I don't have a dedicated painting space and I do most of my painting at the dining room table (which is connected to my living room via an archway). There's a nearby window I can open, but would this be enough ventilation? Does an airbrush produce a smell that will drive my wife nuts? And are there any chemicals produced that could be dangerous for my 10 month old daughter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uselesswizard Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Great questions! If you are using normal wargaming acrylic paints, the smell should be almost non-existent. I have never had a smelly waterbased acrylic paint, but I cannot say that none of them smell because I don't know for certain. I've not had a problem though. If you'ree using solvent based paints, then yes there will most likely be a smell, and yes that smell is dangerous. Solvent based paints need to be very well ventilated, and you should be wearing a really good quality mask. The wargaming water-based acrylics are non-toxic, however you are spraying what is basically colored plastic into the air and that can get everywhere. I would highly recommend that you lay down some covering on the surface you're working over, and opening the window is a great idea. It may not be toxic, but after a four hour painting session without a basic mask, when I blow my nose a rainbow comes out. So a basic mask when using wargaming paints is a decent idea. I wouldn't use an airbrush right next to a 10-month old, at least not for extended periods of time, but I doubt it will do any harm. I'm also pretty sure I would err on the side of paranoia when it came to the health and well being of my own kids, if I had any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portablezombie Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 You're really diving into the deep end with this setup. I'd recommend the setup @RuneBrush mentioned. You don't learn to drive in a sportscar, so you shouldn't learn to airbrush with an expensive setup that, quite honestly, is not going to server your future needs. I have a Master setup, and the Vivo looks similar to what I own - it's cheap and gets the job done for a good price. The compressor you've chosen doesn't have a tank, so you're going to have constant cycling up and down, which will affect your spray. Also, that Iwata brush won't give you control over paint and air (which is what a double action brush will do,) so you won't be learning how to properly control flow. The cleaning pot can be purchased through Amazon or the UK equivalent of Harbor Freight for under $10 USD, so don't waste your money on the Iwata name. Use either the Badger Stynylrez or Vallejo Surface primers. They're both excellent, and pretty much the standard for miniatures painting. Also, avoid gloss - you're priming, so the goal is to get a little surface "tooth" for the paint to grab onto. Gloss primers are smooth and won't give the same traction to your paint. Remember - you can always buy up when you are ready to upgrade your game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Render Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Great suggestions here! To piggyback on this thread, I'm considering buying an airbrush but am not sure whether it's worth it for me. The immediate use would be basecoating lots of smaller models (Bloodletters, Reavers, etc). Over time I'd look forward to getting more proficient for more nuanced uses on bigger models. The main concern is that I live in a poorly ventilated apartment, so I think I'd have to use it primarily at a friend's house (who would also get some use out of it). For the folks here who have experience airbrushing: Does it have a significant impact on painting speed for large quantities of smaller models? If so, I"m thinking I can just do longer once-a-month sessions at my friend's place (assuming I get the right compressor, that is!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuneBrush Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 8 hours ago, Render said: Great suggestions here! To piggyback on this thread, I'm considering buying an airbrush but am not sure whether it's worth it for me. The immediate use would be basecoating lots of smaller models (Bloodletters, Reavers, etc). Over time I'd look forward to getting more proficient for more nuanced uses on bigger models. The main concern is that I live in a poorly ventilated apartment, so I think I'd have to use it primarily at a friend's house (who would also get some use out of it). For the folks here who have experience airbrushing: Does it have a significant impact on painting speed for large quantities of smaller models? If so, I"m thinking I can just do longer once-a-month sessions at my friend's place (assuming I get the right compressor, that is!). Ventilation can be fixed if you've got a window nearby. There's a few guides on creating a DIY Airbrush Spray Booth using a box, fan and length of tumble dryer hose (which you drape out a window). Speed wise, I'd say that it does improve the speed of base coating overall, but if you've not got a permanent setup then you're going to add about half an hour onto your airbrushing session for time to get everything sorted. I'd also say to ensure that you slot in a half hour break every 1 to 2 hours to ensure the compressor doesn't overheat. I tend to use my airbrush for specific tasks. For example in my Bloodbound army, I've used it for the pale flesh on some models and the red on some Juggernaut. The flesh was because I achieved a much better finish than by brush, and the Juggernauts were because they're a fairly large model and I wanted a very quick result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portablezombie Posted September 5, 2017 Share Posted September 5, 2017 On 8/30/2017 at 6:39 PM, Render said: For the folks here who have experience airbrushing: Does it have a significant impact on painting speed for large quantities of smaller models? This weekend, I base coated some Warmaster stuff - including setup and cleanup, I sprayed 36 strips of Spirit Hosts, 48 strips of Dire Wolves, and 24 strips of Black Knights in about 45 minutes. This included cleaning in between batches, as I painted white, gray, and bone. Granted, these are 15mm, and I just did a quick base color, so it wasn't high detail or anything, but there is no way I could have done all of that by hand in double that time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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