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163 Celestant-Prime

About Lior'Lec

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    Dracothian Guard

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  1. Hey all, could someone tell me how tall Alarielle is so I can get a size comparison? I’m looking for the goddess herself without the beetle from head to toe both with and without the wings. If anyone has Nagash I’d be interested in his measurements as well; I believe they are the only two gods currently available as models (please correct me if I’m wrong).
  2. We play mostly one off games, but what campaign play we have done has all been just from the books. I’m hoping that the new book coming out will add some more campaigns for all the factions using both faction specific (especially for the non chaos factions) as well as faction neutral options. Now with all that said there have been some excellent suggestions for house ruled campaigns mentioned here; especially in regards to when a warband gets hung up on a convergence.
  3. I’ve built a third “city” for warcry using a second starter set and some Azyrite kits to give me some taller buildings with three levels. I would like to be able to use them intermixed with both of the official sets which I’ve already painted to match their respective boards (pictures below). The starter set terrain is a green stone with a blueish tint to it while the defiled ruins expansion is a reddish-brown beige color (very similar to country French bricks if you’re familiar with that). I’ve also painted the mausoleum expansion using a darker grey tone with subtle browns and blues (I have some detail work to do on the cemetery still such as weathering and the ground-but it’s playable so not a high priority). I’m leaning towards a red stone akin to the reverse side of each of the game boards but not sure how it will look with the green stone from the base set or the mausoleum’s dark greys. Does anyone have any other suggestions for color schemes? Note:black, white, or grey aren’t really preferred as I’m painting the stormvault an off white with black and have a Pegasus Gothic city which will be a grey stone.
  4. Hey all, I have a question for anyone who’s familiar with the scenery model kits for the Middle Earth SBG. I recently came across three boxes of GW’s middle earth trees terrain, and from looking at the box’s photos it looks an awful lot like the (old) Sylvaneth wildwood model. Are these actually the same models just reboxed or are they different models and slightly smaller because of the different scale used in the two games? Sorry forgot to take photos of the boxes when I saw them.
  5. @OIF4IDVET Did you use weld glue or CA(superglue)? I’ve had similar incidents when building double handed weapons before and (at least for me) it’s usually a case of one hand or the other being ever so slightly off. Three solutions below for if you used weld glue, CA, and one for using greenstuff which works either way. If you used weld glue just apply a tiny amount with your brush right at the joints of both hands and one arm (go ahead and leave one arm attached). The bond will weaken and they can then be toyed with to get them into the proper position. (Note: you need the very thin brush on type of weld glue for this not the precision tube style bottles). If you used super glue just take rubbing alcohol (90%+) and drop the weapon and arms in there for a few minutes to weaken the glue bond and separate the parts. Third option is to take a tiny amount of green stuff and wedge it into the joint where the torso and arm come together to fill the gap. Generally you won’t need any glue when using this method as the green stuff wedges into the crevices of both sides, but if it is very smooth on both sides you’ll have to take the part back off and glue the green stuff place in once it’s cured (it loses its adhesion when cured). If using this method I’d suggest placing it under the model’s left arm so the large Paladin shoulder-pad helps hide the green-stuff.
  6. Cool, thanks. That was exactly why I was asking; I know the underworlds bands generally give you 1/2 to 3/4 of a complete team but wanted to know where it would put me in order to start planning out how/where to expand from there. Still have four chaos bands left to build before I move onto homebrewed groups but I’ve gotta plan out my purchases and build order.
  7. How many points would the Underworlds warband be in Warcry? I have their box from Nightvault but never assembled them so don’t even know what they include. How close would that get you to a complete warcry team?
  8. @Heijoshin, check the citadel paint app; they have multiple end colors you’d find useful and their recipes ready to go. Paint by Color>Bone> Then I’d suggest different individual models painted using Ancient Bone, Bone, Mossy Bone, Clean Bone, and Polished Bone. If you decide to stick to a single color of bones then I think Polished Bone or Ancient Bone would probably look best (again, test on some spare models first to see what you really like; you may well prefer everyone in standard Bone color). As for the Mossy Bone specifically you just use camoshade as wash your wash. The app says to use Terminus and Alaric stones as your layer/edge colors but I’ve found using Ushabti and Screaming skull still looks good as does painting like Ancient Bone but substituting the earthshade wash for camoshade.
  9. @Heijoshin I mean just mixing in some standard yellowish bone colored guys with some that are more grayish and maybe even a couple greenish (mossy bones). Newer bones being more yellow in tone while the older ones taking on grey and green tints. Just an idea so that every soldier doesn’t have the exact same “skin tone” but it’s up to personally preference really.
  10. @Heijoshin, I agree with @Redking the armor looks like it has a lot of verdigris but in some of the photos it also looks like there is some old chipped red on the armor as well (old lacquer on the armor?) so I’d say try a test model (space marine should work well) with a dark bronze armor (personally I’d use Warplock, Agrax, Sycorax or Runelord for edging, Nihlakh). Depending on how detailed you wanna get you could use some liquid mask to cover random patches of the base coat then apply your choice of dark red to get the chipped effect before applying the wash (more work than I’d be willing to do). For the bones I’d do a small variety with them with different models ranging from greyed ancient bones through to fresh yellows. Have more “older” colors than “newer” shades to help the green of the eyes stand out.
  11. Hey just giving this thread a bump to see if anyone’s actually gotten around to working out stats for the warcry warbands yet (or for any of the underworlds warbands for that matter).
  12. @Kramer, sorry was typing half asleep apparently. No, my comment was meant for @Overread in response to his concerns about Nuln Oil wanting to settle into the recesses. Glaze paints and washes are essentially the same thing, glazes have a higher pigment ratio but their consistency is the same. The real difference between the two is in technique when applying them. I don’t own any glaze paints but use washes to apply glazes quite often; for a more vibrant effect I may add a tiny bit of acrylic ink to the wash (~1:10) but typically just apply more glaze layers (too lazy to get up and get the ink sometimes).
  13. You can easily use GW (or any other brand) washes to glaze by just the taking the majority of the wash off of the brush before applying. Get it onto your brush but don’t heavily load it and then wipe most of the paint back into the pot. It also helps to use a lighter touch when applying it to the model.
  14. @mcfishstick, thanks for the recipe, I don’t have any of the red contrasts so I may test a red acrylic/contrast medium mix to see how it comes out. I may be able to swing it without buying yet another two pots of different red paints (seriously think I’m drowning in reds sometimes).
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