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146 Celestant-Prime

About Lior'Lec

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    Dracothian Guard

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  1. @smartazjb0y Yes, most everything can be gotten from a single soul wars boxed set including many mercenary options if you’re playing with the expansion. Add in a box of Spirit Hosts and you have all your fighter options covered. Nighthaunt can take any death faction mercenary if you already have something like a FEC or LoN collection but I believe all of the Nighthaunt mercenaries except the Knight of Shrouds can be gotten from the soul wars boxed set (don’t have the book in front of me so going off memory here). As for the leaders it’s the Dreadwarden (Chainrasp leader, cheaper with fewer wounds and one less movement) and the Extoller (Reaper leader, costs more but higher survivability, movement, and reach).
  2. I also feel the FAQ was (more than) a little lacking. Have considered taking notes from all of the questions we have here on the forums and sending them in as a consolidated list to get answered and then posting the answers after they reply. The biggest challenge is just pure laziness on my part. Maybe tomorrow, maybe...
  3. GW completely hosed us... I want warcry monster stays for THESE guys!
  4. @twrightii, send this into the FAQ email for an official ruling. RAW I don’t see anything preventing it but it does kinda feel wrong to allow it. However if you consider the objective card where you get a VP for each quarter of the board you control (essentially making each quarter of the board a single objective) it specifically says that models splitting the quarters do not count as being in either and could be seen as justification to prevent one model from controlling two objectives.
  5. Hey all, have another question but see no reason to start a new thread... I just got in my second set of the terrain from the starter set which I intend to intermix with the Azyrite Ruins and Townscape kits to (hopefully) build some three story buildings to play on. What I’m needing to know is from people who already own the other two kits: comparing the Desolated Township Ravaged Lands set against the two Azyrite sets what appears to be the difference in the sprues from the photos? I remember a lot of people saying the townscape did not come with the sprues to actually make everything in the photos. I’m trying to determine if I want to order one of each (Azyrite) kit or just get two of the Ravaged Lands sets to play around with (I’m getting one for certain to build according to the cards).
  6. Which base did you use for it? Apothecary White was literally the only contrast paint I was excited for but was seriously disappointed by it’s performance. I tried it on a grey seer base coat and just ended up with a cool grey which needed layering to bring up to white (which defeated the purpose of even using the contrast paint white). I’m still holding out hope that using Wraithbone as a base may give it more of a white look but so far haven’t had to energy to attempt it.
  7. This isn’t an issue I’ve had to deal with yet, but thanks to your thread it’s something I’ve been thinking about. I came up with a potential house rule which could help with the problem but haven’t been able to think of an easy way to describe it yet. Any time a scripted battle specifies a battle group start on the field replace it with a random roll. On a 2-5 use the group as normal, but on a 1 or 6 a different unit is used. Dagger, Hammer, Shield; remove the scripted group from the list and the first group is used on a 1 while a 6 denotes the remaining group. When the battleplan calls for staggered deployments the rolled group and scripted groups just change deployment locations and turns (just swap their groups). You’re still most likely to use the same group however the small chance of having another group deploy first encourages players to keep their warband balanced just like random card draws. An alternative could be rolling 1, 2-4, and 5/6 to give the scripted group a slightly lower frequency while raising the potential of a hammer/shield alternative.
  8. I like the narrative you’ve built but on the second battle you’re potentially going to have a similar issue as some convergence and story battles (as pointed out in the Unmade Convergence thread). If the players know that a battle group always starts on the table then players are encouraged to stack that group with their best fighters rather than a balanced warband. One idea I’ve had to address the issue is to make it a random group: roll a die, on a 2-5 they use the same group that the deployment lists but on a 1 or 6 another group is used (dagger, hammer, shield; remove the deployment’s normal group and 1 becomes the first 6 becomes the second). This could be applied to any scripted battles that have a single battle group always starting on the field.
  9. Note to mods: I debated about posting this in painting and modeling but decided here as it applies to the hobby as a whole. If needed please feel free to move this thread to the other forum. I’ve been suffering from a case of hobby burn out of late, particularly in regards to building and painting. While this is something we all get from time to time we all do different things to reinvigorate our hobby senses and tl/dr: I wanna know what do you do when you need a break from build/paint/play and what do you find that reenergizes your hobby passion? Generally whenever I don’t want to build I’ll paint, and when I don’t want to paint I’ll build. However when both past times feel less like a hobby and more like a chore I’ve found other ways to re-ignite my hobby fires in the past. Firstly I use other hobbies to get away from build/paint/play-ing as a whole for a a while. I actually have far more hobbies than time to enjoy them so when whatever recreational pastime I’m pursuing becomes a chore I’ll focus on another. Generally the further afield the distracting hobby is the better. Woodworking is good, getting in more rounds at the gun range is better, logging extra workout time is even better still. Notice the trend? For relighting the modeling flame TGA forums is one of my best resources. The sheer number of beautiful paint jobs and imaginative conversions is usually enough to kick start my own drive to do something (read as: steal an idea). A close second has been to hobby without making it my hobby. Just because I don’t want to paint right now doesn’t mean I’ve lost interest in painting. I won’t try to paint a unit, but I’ll play around at the painting desk experimenting and not caring if I ****** it up. Now how about you, what techniques do you use to break up the monotony when hobbies become chores?
  10. @GlanceOnASix, they’re assuming both actions are being used to attack. With onslaught it grants +1 attack for the entire activation so if he has two actions to attack as opposed to having to move first it drastically improves his damage output.
  11. @KoganStyle, I’m wrong and @tom_gore has it correct by RAW. Personally we’ll continue to play it the way we have been here at home (we’ve been playing around with house rules and such) but if playing at the store I’ll need to remember this (I play vanilla there and for battleplan just let my opponents select everything anyway).
  12. @KoganStyle, this is how we do it and I’m 90% sure it is RAW but will double check when I get home (Haven’t played in a little over a week either so may be forgetting something). 1)Priority roll 2)Draw terrain card and set up terrain 3) Draw Deployment, select player colors 4) Draw Victory condition, select defender/etc. 6) Draw Twist 7) Deploy models We add another step that would be number five but this is a house rule: Check that terrain, deployment, and victory combination do not allow for an impossible/auto-win game, if so agree on which card would make the most sense to replace and do so (usually deployment or victory).
  13. I already do that on my bases anyway just incase they get used in another game where it is required (rpgs and dungeon crawls). Arcs are denoted by where the groves are shaved into the mdf bases (which one of these days I will get around to actually painting to make it easier to see) at 10, 2, 4 and 8 o’clock positions, for simpler version it would just be the center of the side arcs to separate front and back. I actually always preferred true line of sight in games; even in beer and pretzel wargames like Warhammer. It was always simple to me, when you build the model mark it on the base. It doesn’t matter if you use the head’s position and I use the torso or vice-a versa because it’s clearly marked for each and every time it is in question. True line of sight was never universally loathed.
  14. Anyone thought about adding in true line of sight and flank/arc rules yet? Been debating if it might make the game a little more interesting by pushing up the importance of facing. If relevant this would be in addition to using Kill Team’s cover/obstruction rules. Simple idea: Front/Back arcs based on model’s design; can only see/attack in front of you; all attacks from behind get +1 to the die rolls. It sounds good in theory but would it really add anything in practice? It’s a simplified version of what’s used in one of my dungeon crawl board games (which has front, rear, and two types of sides).
  15. @Hannibal, Ah you’re right. There should be two chainrasps in the shield and one in the dagger. I’d started that way and after a few games changed it for a stronger dagger; never noticed it wasn’t legal anymore. Previous post edited.
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