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Weazel

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Posts posted by Weazel

  1. 7 hours ago, Drazarius said:

    But against Sylvaneth, Jaws of Mork give you a better chance, don't they? The opponent didn't have time to shoot?

    With an old list, would he have had time to snipe your mangler?

    What can beat 30 buffed DoK witches...? A colossal may be ? Did you try to focus Mangler and boingrot on this ?

    Well he only had 3 Archers, but my speed kinda surprised him and I managed to take down Durthu with my Mangler Boss on first turn. The mission was Scorched Earth and the speed really helped me reach his lines. I couldn't really touch his Kurnoth Hunters though, those guys are just absolute beasts.

    Focusing doesn't really work in the game because of how combat order works: I can attack with one unit and the other unit that didn't attack yet is going to get destroyed. I much prefer 40k style of all chargers fight first, where you actually gain a substantial advantage from charging. Not sure how that would affect the dynamic of AoS, but if would make dealing with said DoK and Hearthguard at least a theoretical possibility.

  2. I have been eyeballing (and admittedly drooling at) the SC! Slaves to Darkness box for a while now. Now I could just buy the box for my painting pleasures, but I wonder if StD have any viability on the tabletop? I don't play any grand tournaments or anything, so just looking for something fun with a reasonable chance at winning some games as well. I currently play Gitz and their performance isn't exactly stellar, but are StD better? And do they have a "meta"? I'm inclined toward Khorne if that makes a difference.

    • Like 1
  3. Played in a friendly tournament over the weekend and went 2-1-2. Had a Jaws of Mork list with both battalions (I posted the list a while back). The list is crazy fast (and consistently fast with the reroll for moves). I was on the opponents face on turn 1 every game. However the problem is that we really don't have anything that hits hard enough to destroy enough enemies to not die horribly in retaliation. For example 30 buffed DoK witches or 20 buffed Hearthguard are just impossible to shift. Managed to tie against Fyreslayers though since the mission didn't allow his battleline to leave their deployment (you needed BL to hold objectives). If it was a proper battle I wouldn't have had no chance. Threw 2 mangler squigs, cave squig loonboss and 10 bounders at them and managed to kill about 5 and lost everything in retaliation. Against DoK I was effectively tabled by end of second round. Won against Sylvaneth and Stormcast.

    The balance of this game is just so out of whack really. Could be that I'm just missing something or Gitz are truly only a fun (read: bad) army.

    • Sad 1
  4. Okay so I have a friendly tournament coming next week, so this WD update is worth considering (the magazine is available next weekend, right?) I confirmed with the TO that it's OK to use these rules.

    This is the list I came up with:

    Allegiance: Gloomspite Gitz
    Fungoid Cave-Shaman (90)
    - Lore of the Moonclans: Squig Lure

    6 x Sneaky Snufflers (70)

    Moon-Biter Squigalanche (90)

    Loonboss on Mangler Squigs (280)
    - General
    - Artefact: The Clammy cowl

    Loonboss on Giant Cave Squig (110)
    - Moonclan Stabba
    - Artefact: Syari Screamersquig

    Mangler Squigs (240)
    6 x Squig Herd (70)
    6 x Squig Herd (70)


    Moon-Jumper Stampede (140)
    10 x Boingrot Bounderz (200)
    10 x Boingrot Bounderz (200)
    10 x Squig Hoppers (180)

    Loonshrine (0)

     

    Total: 1740 / 1750
    Extra Command Points: 2
    Allies: 0 / 400
    Wounds: 130
     

    I have dreamed of a full squig list for quite some time but the random movement has been an issue. With rerolls it still might be but probably less so. What do you think? Unfortunately I don't have any more Herds and no interest in buying more models at this time...

  5. 33 minutes ago, Nezzhil said:

    You need both fanatics to test the real Grot Bomb and a Madcap for the -1Rend artifact. 😁

    Ok thanks, I'll consider building towards that eventually maybe. But which Fanatics would you add first? Say if you were strapped for points and had to choose only one or the other.

  6. Going to try a 'Grot Bomb', so basically 40 Stabbas with Sneaky Snufflers and a Loonboss. So I have a box of Fanatics unassembled, and I'm kinda undecided which ones to build. Sporesplattas would further buff the Grots with +1A and give some LoS blocking as well if needed. However Loonsmashas' damage looks so tempting and they would be a pretty sweet charge deterrent.. which ones would you build?

    Also, do you roll the number of attacks for Fanatics just once for the whole unit, or for each model separately?

  7. If I have a unit of 20 Stabbas with a Flag Carrier, a Gong Basher and 3 Netters and I bring them back from the Loonshrine do I get to bring any Flag Carriers, Gong Bashers or Netters with them since the unit size is now 10 ? They are limited as 1 in every 20 models or 3 in every 20 models.

  8. 4 hours ago, Maserdom said:

    From the AoS Core Rules booklet:

    You select a unit for a normal move -> you declare a Run move -> you roll -> normal move + run roll distance

    You don't get to roll or move 0 inches because you already have to choose the Run option when you pick a unit.

    This tricky part of the ruleset really only comes into play for our bounders, hoppers, etc and a handful of other models with random movement. In every other case you already know how far the unit will go with a normal move and choose, accordingly, to either Run or move like usual.

    Where does it say when random stats are determined? I.e. when do you actually roll the move distance? Start of the movement phase or when you actually decide that a unit is going to move (i.e. is rolling the distance for movement part of the move in itself)? I get that you roll running when you decide to move but there's a bit of confusion about the timing of things.

  9. 12 hours ago, Maserdom said:

    You declare that the unit will run right away during its basic movement, unfortunately (unlike 40k).

    FWIW you don't run in the shooting phase in 40k for a while now. It's called advancing and it's done in the movement phase.

    I guess I'm kinda interested about this topic: is the rolling of dice to determine the movement stat already considered moving? I mean if you roll to see the distance and decide not to move, has the unit remained stationary or does it count as having moved? If it's the former, then I suppose you can declare that you decide to run after seeing the result since you haven't initiated any movement yet. If it's the latter (i.e. rolling to determine move stat is considered movement) then you would have to decide about running before rolling for movement.

  10. 21 hours ago, Math Mathonwy said:

    This is a bit of a stupid question but I see people fielding three or even more Fungoid Cave Shamans - do people really buy that many of the same mini?

    I have one "official" model and my other Fungoid is Zarbag. And I suppose there are good Fungoid proxies in the Gobbapalooza set.

    • Like 1
  11. With any glue less is more, especially so if you don't want to get any glue on your paint job. When you add glue it's going to be more of a droplet than a thin film, so when you press the pieces together it compresses the droplet and all the excess is going to spill over. However you don't want to skimp on it either. You kinda develop a feel for it once you start using plastic glue/cement, but I recommend practicing with unpainted models first. :)

  12. 3 minutes ago, Sauriv said:

    Moonclan casters can use Itchy Nuisance to force someone to go last, thats really stong. 

    In the case of durthu, if you are able to cast that spell on him you could focus him with 2 or 3 units to play around the stomp-ability. After durthu is hurt he quickly becomes weak. He also has few attacks so applying -tohit is also strong, with netters, fellwater, hag, hag's curse. 

    Okay cool, thanks.

    The problem was I didn't really know Durthu was that strong and kinda rushed on him. My casters were left behind a wyldwood and couldn't see him at all to cast the spell on him. He just trashed my units one by one. Wasn't much of a problem for him to kill 4-6 Rockguts per combat phase.

    Next time I'll stay out of them woods, lol. :)

  13. Well you can always have your Troggboss do straight up 6 damage via trait if you really want him to hit like a truck. But that's going to cost you a few CPs along the way which has the potential of being a Very Bad Thing.

    As much as I love my Gitz even in their current state, I don't think a slight decrease in variance of certain stats would really break the game nor make Gitz overpowered. A value range of 2-12 in an absolutely key stat (Boingrot Bounders movement) is a bit too much. I already own a horde army (in 40k) so not really going to spam Stabbas any time soon.

    • Like 2
  14. On 9/12/2019 at 12:29 AM, Sauriv said:

    Hi, took my troggs for a spin for the first time ever today (just 1000p) . We needed to round up early so it was hard to say who would win. Anyway, as much as i would love a pure trogg-list I do understand the need of more bodies on the table.

    Many of the posts i see here talks about having a big unit of stabbas but what are your thoughts regarding squigs as screens/objective grabbers/tarpit? 

    Purely for holding back field objectives (i.e. not seriously defending them) a min sized Squig Herd is fantastic for 70 points.

  15. On 9/10/2019 at 12:24 PM, simakover said:

    is it good to run all squig list on 1000 point? l mean something like this:

     

    Allegiance: Gloomspite Gitz
    Mortal Realm: Ghur

    Leaders
    Loonboss on Mangler Squigs (280)
    - General
    - Trait: Fight Another Day 
    - Artefact: Gryph-feather Charm 
    Fungoid Cave-Shaman (90)
    - Lore of the Moonclans: Itchy Nuisance
    Fungoid Cave-Shaman (90)
    - Lore of the Moonclans: Squig Lure

    Battleline
    6 x Squig Herd (70)
    6 x Squig Herd (70)

    Units
    10 x Boingrot Bounderz (200)
    10 x Boingrot Bounderz (200)

    Total: 1000 / 1000

    Looks like a pretty solid list, might have to steal that... I get that Fungoids are great, but how about if you go full hog on squigs? Like so:

    Allegiance: Gloomspite Gitz

    Leaders
    Loonboss on Mangler Squigs (280)
    - General
    - Trait: Fight Another Day
    - Artefact: The Clammy cowl
    Loonboss on Giant Cave Squig (110)
    - Moonclan Stabba

    Battleline
    6 x Squig Herd (70)
    6 x Squig Herd (70)

    Units
    10 x Boingrot Bounderz (200)
    10 x Boingrot Bounderz (200)
    6 x Sneaky Snufflers (70)

    Total: 1000 / 1000
    Extra Command Points: 0
    Allies: 0 / 200
    Wounds: 94

    The problem however is that you'd probably want to use both bosses' command abilities and you might be a bit starved on CP...

  16. Stormsire's Cursebrekers

    Cursebreakers.jpg.8f8e2080d717be9f55a2e92c055c7677.jpg

    Not 100% satisfied with them considering time spent. But at least they're done. All metallics (including turquoise armor) are made with Contrast paints on top of silver.

    Edit: This forum scales these too small tbh. A closeup of Stormsire:

    Stormsire.jpg.b0e173e4b6da4becd57bf8ae6aa2f782.jpg

    • Like 7
  17. 2 hours ago, GeneralZero said:

    - Are you satisfied with vallejo primers? (solid enough? well stuck on the plastic? airbrush pb? etc...)

    - do you vanish after the contrast paints is applied?

     

    They stick well enough and go well through my airbrush (30ish psi). However I've noticed that they do not hold against intentional  scraping with a sharp & solid tool (like fingernails). I suppose if you want bulletproof primer you  need a rattle can but that means a slightly thicker layer which might obscure fine details. I prefer the AB for the sake of convenience: I can prime regardless of weather conditions (or time of day).

    I do varnish after contrast paints because sadly they do not hold at all against any kind of touch. That said I highly recommend some form of painting handle to avoid rubbing the paint off while working on your models. Corks are good and affordable for bigger batches.

  18. 4 hours ago, Inquisitorsz said:

    Those look pretty. 

    When you say Zenithal prime, how did you achieve that? 
    Did you prime black then spray Grey Seer or Wraithbone from the top? Or did you airbrush the contrast base colours over a darker primer? 
    Did you use black or grey as the darker primer? 
    Does the contrast paint flow/pool differently across the different primers? That's what I'm worried about regarding mixing primers. Does the surface finish change much? Or did you gloss varnish over the primer to smooth it all out? 

    I haven't had a chance to stuff around with zenithal priming or preshading with contrast yet. 

    Thanks, glad you like them. :)

    For priming I am actually using Vallejo surface primers through an airbrush, so I can't really say how well the citadel products work. But my method is black primer from a downward angle first (I would actually recommend a dark grey primer instead of black but I only have black available). After that a horizontal or slightly above horizon of USN Light Ghost Grey (the darkness is similar to Grey Seer but it's a tad colder. The contrasts are very vibrant so I haven't noticed any "coldness" in the colors over this particular primer). Finally I hit them with white primer straight from above or very slightly angled.

    Now like I said I'm not using citadel priming products so I can't say if they would behave differently with contrasts, however I've not run into any issues so far.

    Hope this helps.

    • Thanks 1
  19. Just dropping my 2c after a week or so of contrast painting. They are absolutely brilliant. I haven't had this much FUN with painting since I started airbrushing. I'm getting so much stuff done that would have taken me ages to finish with conventional methods (or to be frank, would probably have remained unpainted).

    Now I'm not a beginner painter by any means, I'd probably rate myself in the late intermediate stage (and to be honest I just don't have the time nor patience to push into advanced territory). But I just wanted to put it out there that contrast paint jobs do not "need" additional highlights and shades to qualify as passable playing figures.

    I'm adding a couple shots here to illustrate my point. These are pure contrast paint jobs (one coat) over a zenithal prime. Only things layered are the dots on some of the mushrooms, otherwise it's just Contrast Magic (tm).

    Contrast1.jpg.74a18664bb1fdec12c39df2a1617f09d.jpg

    Contrast2.jpg.59a5950e59ab78c178b70117879554bd.jpg

    Edit: Seems the forum scales these down quite a bit, here are the links for bigger versions (should they work): Picture 1 & Picture 2

     

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