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About Me

Found 23 results

  1. Welcome to my post offering basing material and more. For those seeing this for the first time, I offer the following products and services: Bases (any size/shape, precision cut in MDF. Custom sizing available) Movement trays in a series of sizes and variations of the amount of miniatures they can hold, also precision cut in MDF. (custom sizing NOT available on these.) Texture material to make your bases pop (currently in over 20 styles.) There are two ways to get texture material. The first is on bases — all bases come with your choice of texture by default – the second is in baggies. These baggies come in 3 sizes (small, medium and large) and can be filled with any combination of textures you want. The pieces in baggies are random in size and shape. dungeon aids/Terrain. Currently these come in two types: Dungeon tiles and road kits. The dungeon tiles are 25mm squares of texture with rounded edges. They are easy to glue down to backing material (such as foam-board) and make your own layouts. The are designed to be an inexpensive way to get a dungeon layout quickly. Road kits make approximately 48 inches of roadway and come in approximately 7 pieces per kit. They are texture material attached to MDF and are similar to my bases, but on a large scale. After a brief section for updates and sales, the post will be sectioned based on the product types described above. Please see the end of the post for Disclaimer. Updates: This section will house any updates about my options and schedule. Current processing time is 3.5 – 4 weeks. I aim to get orders out as quickly as possible. I am currently packing for a planned move to a new home/workspace which is necessitating a longer stated processing time. I aim to be back to my usual 1.5 week processing time by the end of August. New product: 10 and 20 slot movement trays, sized for 25mm round bases, are now available. Please see the movement tray section Current sales: Buy 1 bag of basing material (any size) and get a bag 50% off. Buy 50 bases of a specific size, get 10 of that same size free! Both sales stack if you wish to buy multiples. BASES: Bases can come in a variety of sizes and shapes. From rounds ideal for science fiction and skirmish games, to square bases for individual figures or even regiments. All of our bases are an MDF bottom piece and include in the price a texture piece of your choice. (Texture options will be detailed in the texture section below.) When you get a base from me, it will come standard with this texture piece attached and sanded so that all you have to do is glue down your miniature and get to painting. Due to the massive variety in basing sizes and shapes, it would be impossible to list them all. Please PM or otherwise message me with a description of sizes/shapes you need and I will be happy to provide a quote. For convience and ease of reference here is a link to prices for the most popular sizes. MOVEMENT TRAYS: Movement trays are a quick and convenient way to move massed ranks of troops across the board. From a horde of goblins to disciplined ranks of swordsmen. My movement trays are precision cut MDF sized to fit 25, 32, and 40mm round bases. They come standard with your choice of texture from our list (please see the texture section) however if requested this can be provided “on the side.” Movement trays come in the below options of size/configuration/price: 3 slot tray: 25mm = $1.75 32mm = $2.25 40mm = $2.75 4 slot tray: 25mm = $2.25 32mm = $2.75 40mm = $3.25 5 slot tray: 25mm = $2.75, 32mm = $3.50 40mm = $3.75 6 slot tray: 25mm = $3.25, 32mm = $4, 40mm = $4.50 10 slot tray: 25mm = $5 20 slot tray: 25mm = $10 TEXTURE MATERIAL Tired of having your troops look as if marching over an empty battlefield? Want to have an easy way to enhance your army’s theme? Consider texture material. I offer the following options for textures (with links to photos): Hex and square tile - Necrolith temple - The hive - temple - Infinity circuit - Flagstones - Runic - Mayan ruined temple - Crusader temple - Chaotic runes - Cracked earth - Cobblestone - Double Diamond deck plating - Egyptian ruins - Greek tile - temple - Fieldstone brick - Temple of the old ones - Persian palace - Plain/flat piece of material (great for making slabs of concrete) You can either get texture material as part of one of our other products (bases, etc) or on its own in baggies. We have three sizes available, and you can request any of them be filled with a variety of texture of your choice. Pieces come in a random assortment of size and shape which are perfect for cutting up to create interesting basing elements. Small, equivalent to a “snack” sized baggie in the USA = $4 each Medium, equivalent to a “sandwich” sized baggie in the USA = $8 Large, equivalent to a “quart” sized baggie in the USA = $10 An example of a Norse runic medium baggie: TERRAIN/DUNGEON AIDS currently two option are available. Dungeon tiles and terrain: 25mm square with rounded edges. Available in any texture from my texture list. Bag of 10 = $2 Bag of 50 = $8 Bag of 100 = $15 Bag of 200 = $25 Road sections available in any texture. 48 inches of textured roadway for $16 per set. DISCLAIMER: Yes, some of the tools I use are commercially available, and thus you could potentially make items like mine yourself. I personally see my business as a service for those who do not want to invest the time, money, and logistics into making this happen. I am also less expensive, generally speaking. SHIPPING: Items ship from the Tampa area of Florida in the USA. Domestic options include first class and priority mail flat rate packages. International shipping is available and can be quoted as requested. CONTACT: If you are interested in any of my products or services, please either send me a personal message, or post in this thread and I will be happy to assist.
  2. With the new edition I'm wanting to experiment with new basing ideas for the mortal realms. A simple method I tried for the Realm of Metal is painting texture paint with a metallic and adding gem stones. The copper one below looked a little like mud to me so I've been messing around with other metallic colors. Anyways, want all have you guys been doing? I've been trying to come up with an idea for the Realm of Light too.
  3. I've been looking through the web for good basing materials: so, crystals, flowers, sculpted bases, anything Thoughts?
  4. Hello guys. I saw some awesome painted miniatures in this forum section. I just started the hobby and i want to go all the way baby! Painting, scenery, battles, skull for a skull throne and stuff. So i got few questions about finishing bases and/or scenery. Sand and rocks! Yeah- where are you getting them. I mean do you buy things like: https://www.darksphere.co.uk/p.php?p=30443 or https://www.darksphere.co.uk/p.php?p=72812 or you are basically using a Citadel texture paints... Or I don't know maybe DIY stores???
  5. How is everyone going about bashing there modles for Warhammer Quest Silver Tower. Unique to the game or to match your armies? This is what I have been playing with, but I'm not sold on it yet so I'm looking for inspiration .
  6. Texture bases, basing material, and terrain! Although this is primarily a business venture I will consider small trades for tomb kings or on sprue VC skeletons Valentine's day special! In order to give me enough lead time to complete orders, I am announcing my Valentine's day "get your loved one gaming" sale! Pick a starter set (or boardgame/rpg/etc) from a game you love and want to buy for your loved one. Show it to me, and take 20% off an order of bases equal to what is needed to base the kit this 20% discount will apply to the whole order if you choose to add some gifts for yourself! Special prices for gaming clubs available. FREE SHIPPING ON ORDERS TOTALLING $100 or more! TWO NEW textures now in stock and fully available in every size and shape required, as well as in our bulk bags! Fieldstone brick and temple of the old one. NEW PRODUCT: road sections 7.5 inches by 2.5 inches, available unpainted or painted. Available in two textures: Fieldstone brick Cobblestone 1 for $3 Pack of 6 for $15 That's a whopping 45 inches of roadway for $15. See photo gallery below for pictured examples. Sheets of texture are now available. A sheet is roughly 6 inches by 5 inches. Each sheet comes unprimed, and will retail at $5. I've had customers use these for backdrops for photography, and others just trying to spice up thier bases. I make and sell custom bases. I often have off cuts left over. This post is for bulk bags of offcuts. The below link has examples Photos https://imgur.com/gallery/nWVh6 I also, as stated, make bases and do other custom work, including terrain/dungeon layouts. Pm with any questions. Prices are as follows: Snack baggie = $4 Sandwich baggie = $8 Quart baggie = $10 Options currently include: Norse/fantasy Runic Mayan ruined temple Crusader temple Cracked earth Cobblestone Double Diamond deck plating Egyptian ruins Greek tile Elven temple Fieldstone brick Temple of the old ones Persian palace Random assortment of the above. PRE ORDER: These two upcoming textures have a week extra processing time due to the texture tools being on their way to me in the mail. They can be used for bulk bags as above, or custom basing/other orders. However this extra processing time is tacked on. Temple of the old one – deep ones inspired temple/ruins flooring Fieldstone For those interested in bases, I offer every size and shape needed for wargaming or rpgs. 25mm/32mm bases are 0.50 cents each, and prices go up from there. Highest price currently is a knight Titan base at $4.50 I can expand my line of textures over time (reinvesting) or by customer special order. If you would like one of the following I will need an order of at least $25 and an extra week of processing time in order for my tool maker to produce and ship me the tool. Possible new textures: Wood planks Reb brick walkway, Block brick, Chaos Runic, Celtic Runic, Hexagons, Triple hexagons, Indian cashmere Disclaimer: Yes, the tools I use are commercially available, and thus you could potentially make items like mine yourself. I personally see my business as a service for those who do not want to invest the time, money, and logistics into making this happen. I am also less expensive, generally speaking. Furthermore, I have direct confirmation from the manufacturer that I can sell my finished works that use thier tools in construction.
  7. Hi folks, I'm actually building a bunch of old goblin-stuff like Spearchukkas, Rocklobbers and so on - not especially for gaming - more collection wise. But I'm not quiet sure about how to base them. I love the fact that AOS has round bases now, but for some reason it feels strange on old Minis for me. On a Stormcast - cool, on a Marauder dwarf - strange. How do you handle this?
  8. Hi there guys, quick question (although it might not be a quick answer) i'll try my best to explain what i mean. I had a game with my nephew earlier today Sylvaneth v Flesh Eater, and a situation came up, he had a unit of kurnoth hunters behind a Treelord, and shot at a unit of ghoul horrors, and now this is the issue, drawing LoS base to base from the kurnoth hunters to my crypt horrors crossed the base of the treelord, but how the 'picking a target' says if a target is visible you can shoot it, I agreed, 2 of the kurnoth hunters could see between the legs of the Treelord and shoot my crypt horrors, now this should have been the end of it. However it got me thinking, 'what if he had based his treelord with lots of tall bushes and small trees to make him look like he was striding through a forest, so that the whole base was full of foliage', the kurnoth hunters LoS would have been blocked by said foliage on the treelords base and therefore not shoot at my crpyt horrors, then this got me thinking that j can use this tactic to keep my heroes safe. I.E, my other army is Nighthaunts, what if all my Spirit Hosts and Hexwraiths are based with loads of cotton wool, to imitate swamp mist, so as to block any LoS past them and when i deploy them put them base to base and hide my heroes behind them during the first few turns keeping them immune to any shooting or arcane bolts. Now in this army it probably wont be a big deal, but battlesmiths in fireslayers ( basing troops on tall rocks and the battlesmith on a smaller base ), blood secrator in a khorne bloodbound ( same kind of bases ) would keep them heroes totally safe from any ranged attack, allowing them to buff the units all game. I just want to know if this is considered 'too gamey' or just plain cheating. How would a tournament organiser see this situation. Im sorry if this has been brought up before, i did a search and found nothing, but i think its a valid point and would like to see what the community thought.
  9. Hello, we are a spanish players youtube channel, and want to support this invention: https://igg.me/at/adaptem They are adapters which you don't must to change your original bases to new round ones. We have made a table with the exact size and adapter for each Games Workshop model until now: https://zonamuertagames.wordpress.com/conversion-de-peanas/ We wish to help you, and please, support the project: we want our adapters too!
  10. Greets Everyone, I am shifting to Agrellan Earth basing for my AoS daemons. I'll stick to the more traditional grass and brown look for what I already have completed with Khorne. Question: What looks good with cracked Agrellan earth paint to give it some contrast and variety? I'm thinking slightly off-color rocks, or use kitty litter for painted black then glossy obsidian shards. Or, does it best just to use different washes in certain areas for a more natural and level effect? Please do share. I want to get crackin' on these, and I'll probably use the same method for my Death Guard and Drukari in 40K. Thanks, ~ Blutsteigen
  11. I'm a big fan of square bases on certain units, mostly the archers that I keep tightly grouped and generally don't need to shuffle around much in melee. I was wondering though, with the GHB2 around the corner, are square bases likely going to be a problem? Should I just hold off on basing them for now?
  12. How does everyone play out the combat phase? How do you measure? I'm concerned that there is a huge divide on this, and people want/expect different things. Many people are already adopting bases as standard for measurement. Models are fine but its just so much easier to use bases. But what about pile in and close combat? Its easy to say bases don't matter, but in reality they DO matter, they are big platforms under the feet of your models. Until we can balance all models on the table by themselves, bases exist and can't exactly be ignored. I think most people have been trying their best to use the inches but its really a guesstimate, especially in terms of hordes where your trying to figure out how many of your 40 skeletons can attack. It comes down to whether your opponent is lenient or strict and a huge point of contention in terms of playing the game socially. You can't really leave this up in the air and expect it to just sort itself out. Most of us are just being polite and letting our opponent estimate but in competitive games this is not going to fly - careful measurements will have to be made which can bog the game down. Then you come to the dreaded base stacking. Since bases don't matter, just stack models on each others bases. right? This leads to a trend of simply not basing your models. Ideally you would want to have an advantage by making more stackable bases, perhaps with magnets. Ideally a system of bases that fit together in tight formation, with models on wire so you can essentially triple-stack your bases and make your models fit. I do like the idea of organizing multiple small models on one larger base, but many would find this offensive. Who cares? It's all legal. It doesn't stop there - why not just stack models on top of each other in a human pyramid? there's no rule against that. What about putting something on your opponents base? Many people would find that rude, and you can damage special scenery elements. If you restrict people from not doing that, then you can put a necromancer in the middle of a 90mm base and make him immune to melee. You might force people to use "the base that the model comes with" but that can be really annoying, some bases are annoyingly big for no reason and many like myself like to minimize bases. Also there's the issue where square bases are legal, modes which don't even have round bases & different versions of the same models with vastly different sizes. All this kind of stuff just hurts the hobby side which in my opinion is always a bad thing. Personally I feel the community needs to adopt a better way to handle measuring close combat. Ideally, a "base math" system simply changing the 'inches' to the number of bases you can 'attack through' makes the most sense - at least for models 40mm and smaller. This is very similar to how 40k works and has been proposed in several house rules. Heres a visual representation: In the end it really doesn't matter how you play it, as long as both sides are clear about how its going to be played from the start. Because there is so much variation, tournaments will likely all start to adopt a certain set of guidelines and the community will have to migrate to one accepted set of rules. UPDATE 7/5/16 There has been a lot of discussion, here is the final word I have for this: IN CONCLUSION: There's no rule against stacking, so you just have to be clear with your opponent before the game (GW has stated it can be played either way) B2B is the simplest way to simplify all movement, does not have a clear negative effect on the game, and either way stacking/tipping can be used if agreed upon. In the end, there is little difference between B2B or M2M, but B2B seems to avoid modeling issues so will likely get adopted (like SCGT and the warhammer world matched play event this year). It seems to me that people will just have to get used to B2B, despite several limitations for 32mm-40mm I have researched in detail throughout this topic. In all reality its not the end of the world, there are so many cases where your 40mm are lined up in one rank anyway, or they can simply spread a bit to make due, per this example: As you can see from this example, simply stacking your 40mm in a zigzag at all times will allow you to get attacks in. (It requires larger models to fiddle around a bit, but it seems a limitation that we will have to live with and make the most of the best we can). Alternatively, if your opponent is set on stacking, but you don't want to muck up your models, you can adopt my "virtual stacking" concept, in which all 25-40mm models attack in two ranks. You can leave you models as standard B2B non-stacking while generally reaping the exact same benefits of stacking models. The only important thing is to take a moment to discuss this with your opponent before the game, to make sure there wont be any bumping heads on these details.
  13. Hey All! I just picked up a "Guardians of the Deepwood" Box for a great price, but being an older box it still has square bases. I looked on the GW website and it says the base for the Treelord is a 105mm, which I assume it the 105mm x 70mm and not the 170mm x 105mm base? Or is the Treelord bigger then I remember? Thanks in advance! -Bryan
  14. Hi everyone, Now that I've accepted the switch to non-square bases, I find that I vastly prefer round bases to ovals. For instance, my Boneripper is on round even though some might think he should be on a treeman oval (whatever size that is) because I just like the uniform look of all circles. In non-matched play games this is not an issue. Heck, even in matched play it shouldn't matter because bases are not dictated in any actual AoS rule anywhere at all in any way. The issue, of course, is that some TOs feel a need to make the game play the way they want it to play, to put their stamp on the experience for everyone else, and so they are mandating bases. Grr. I digress. Point is, I am making three new armies for AoS. Both kinds of orcs combined, Daughters, and Syvlaneth. In the Sylvaneth, the treemen and Drycha come with large ovals. In the daughters, the cavalry come with old cav bases. In both cases, I want to put them on round bases. It would just look better. Aside from the obvious "check with your TO" what is the opinion here? Any issue with rounds in these cases? Thanks!
  15. Is there any company that manufactures 90 mm oval resin bases (Khorne Juggernauts etc.) like MicroArts Studios bases? Google gave nothing. I'm looking for sculpted slate/temple ruin or something like that, not Shattered Dominion.
  16. Hello, I am getting ready to re-base my Beastmen and was wondering what I should use in terms of base sizes. From what I was able to figure out it seems like Ungors best on 25mm round while everything else that was previously on a 25mm square is now best on 32mm round. So characters, Gors, & Bestigors. So mostly wondering now what the Doombull and Bullgors should be based on? 40mm or 50mm round? Also would it be a Oval 120mm x 92mm for the Ghorgon and Jabbersythe? As I assume this is the most common base to re-base anything that was previously on the square chariot base? Any guidance would be great; thanks! -Wes
  17. A couple of weeks back Games Workshop changed their range of textured paint, re-releasing the existing colours in larger pots (and made differently) and complementing each colour with a "coarse" version for a rougher texture - this included the two crackle paints they have. In Novembers White Dwarf they also had an article showing five different effects you could achieve using various washes and drybrushes, showing a huge range of different finishes you can achieve. I've used the original Astrogranite to base all of my Bloodbound and done the basing after the model is finished (so you get a little bit going up the feet of the model). What I'm curious about is how other people are doing their bases? With the crackle and coarse paints you could risk loosing a foot due to the thickness you have to apply, so do you do the base separately and glue it together with superglue at the end, or something else?
  18. So I finally got round to opening up the boxes of bases I have laying around and start to work on them. The first idea is to keep them fairly dull in colour, or should I say tone, seeing as the red and gold is quite bright on the model itself. So airbrush them grey, that's a good start. Then I quickly realised having 2 kinds of grey on the base was above my skill level/effort to achieve on a short time scale so a second colour was required. Dark Browns just didn't seem right in general and I am using black for sundry parts on the models and so I finally thought a tan colour might work. Finally I wanted a metal that would again be dull and so had to spend a fair amount of time shaking some metallic colours which hadn't been used in a long while/ever. Some brass scorpion with a nuln oil wash. Ive done it, I think it's ok but I will have to look at it again tomorrow with fresh eyes. The bases are pretty cool though.
  19. Hey guys, just wondering what static grass/flock etc you use on your bases? Where do you get it from? Do you mix? I've never been overly happy with the stuff I've used in the past - it's mostly been from railway stores and I've found they often appear too shiny or mixed with bits. I'd love to see what you lot use! Pictures welcome. (Also - if a similar thread exists already, apologies, feel free to move/shut down).
  20. Just me? I re-based a bunch of Dispossessed back in the early days, late last summer. Now, I've worked out a unified basing scheme for my Order force, and I'm re-re-basing the Dispossessed. Again. Sigh.
  21. After many hours of experimenting, failing, cursing and praying to the chaos gods I finally made 11 whole bases! I know right?! amazing so here they are! I am so please with how these came out, personally I think bases are far more important to the story of a miniature than colour scheme. I really liked the idea for my brayheard that they lived in a vast dark forest, seemingly never ending, but the happened to stumble upon a long forgotten and decaying ruined temple to the pantheon of chaos gods. In the centre of a ruins stands a realm gate which is where the true story of my army will begin. I wanted broken runes and the idols of chaos carved into the stone floor that has been broken and weathered and almost receded into the forest. I used the dark runes textured rolling pin on super sculpey to create the effect I was looking for. This project was unbelievably both fun and frustrating in equal measure, wrestling with the super sulpey and my oven so the thin sheets came out just right so they were brittle and could be snapped for the ruin effect but not burnt by the oven took a hell of a lot of failed attempts, but it is so much more satisfying when it goes right after such a struggle. Painting was simple and then adding details like the static grass and leaves really brought the bases to life and the end result was better than I expected. Thankfully I also took delivery of my beastlord model and I really love this sculpt, the name of mine is Gor'bix and he will command my army! I decided a shield looks much cooler in my humble opinion and a plus to survivability is always good for generals so after a very simple conversion here he is ready to be primed! Thanks for stopping by! Hopefully next week I will actually start painting a unit!
  22. Hey guys, So one of the big things that I found daunting in returning to the hobby is figuring out if I need to re-base my models from square to round bases. From what I've seen, it seems like a formality, but I wanted to check with the consensus about it. Are squares acceptable for the old models, even in competitive play?
  23. Hi All, Lets kick this off with a little introduction! I'm Adam, from Dorset in the UK. I have been in the hobby since around the time of the Dark Elves army book release in 8th. I have always been a massive fan of anything Orc related. In Warcraft 3, I always played them, WoW my characters were always orcs (apart from the time I played a blood elf, we don't talk about that), when I used to play Dawn of War with my friends at LAN parties, I could always be found yelling Waaagh in the corner. So naturally when I started play Warhammer i picked up the greenskins! I like to think my love for them has only grown. Now, I must admit I did lose interest when AoS came out, but now I'm back into it and going in with both feet! This first blog is all about the bases. I have decided that I am going to rebase my army onto rounds (orcs look way better in a mob that in rank and file anyway!). I was very close to just buying myself lots of resin bases, and I did take a good look around, but I couldn't find anything that I felt really fit with what I think an greenskin should be stood on. I always saw them as being stood on some dry, cracked arid wasteland, and no resin base I could find did it for me. My 8th army was based using agrellan earth, which fits the theme, and I decided that I would build on that now I have a little more hobby knowledge under my belt. So I did a test base I was super happy with my test base! I feel like it fits my theme perfectly! When it comes to the real thing, the slate will be large enough so that a model can be mounted onto it, and I'm also using a few different (read cheaper) materials for mass production, including using MDF bases instead of plastic. The test base was agrellan earth followed by various bits of dry brushing, but I am using distress crackle paint for the cracked effect which we will talk about more when I come to that part. . Tonight has been all about laying down the texture. I am going to be using wood filler to make the surface uneven, which I think should give a more natural feel to the base This literally just involved dolloping on wood filler randomly to give the base an uneven texture, it takes about half an hour to dry and is ready for priming, which I will be doing in black. I started with my 32mm bases, and there are 100 of these guys, so I enlisted some help in the form of my girlfriend and her sister! This is what we are looking for, you don't need an awful lot. just enough to "un-flatten" the base. And here we are, 100 bases textured and ready for priming! This lot took about a half hour to do, and I'm pleased with the variety of the filler. Once they are primed, we can add our cracked earth. I'll be adding the crackle paint to these hopefully later on this week, and then I can get painting the slate for these. Thanks for reading!
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