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DinoTitanedition last won the day on February 11 2017

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  1. Same here @Yoshiya, I'm eager to play on that set too, but I've noticed the size difference from the picture and the actual models in the store already as well. Meanwhile I've been continueing with my warband, while Christian is still on his Untamed Beasts. Haven't played against those either yet, which seems like a miracle considering so many people have them. Lords of WarCry - Da Redfists, Part 5 It is possible to make an Orruk with two bashas from the sprue of the Ardboys. I must confess, the clubs have such a wonderfully dull and brutal appearance that I really wanted to have an orruk with two of them. I also like the look of the faces of the Ironjaw Brutes and I think that an army always looks like it belongs together when it has a common recognition value like the facial features and heads. That's not so easy with greenskins from Games Workshop. Over the years, many different facial features and head shapes have been added to the Orcs/Orruks that look so different from their each other that they sometimes don't even seem to belong to the same race. So I grabbed one of the heads of the Brutes and put it on an Ardboy. I took the opportunity to try some new tricks paintwise. With human models it is quite easy to paint wrinkles on the forehead by accentuating first roughly and then very precisely. The illusion of a three-dimensional wrinkle is created. I used the same procedure at the neck as I described in my article for painting tricks. Another gimmick is the helmet. Although I like it when models can be seen without a helmet, I always ask myself "Where did the helmet go?". So this time I glued it on, so that it looks as if it was hanging from a loop on the belt. In any case I wanted to show on the model that the helmet did not get lost, since the full plate is a trademark of the Ardboys. Now, after I've painted five of the nine Ardboys half of the way is travelled. Time to play a few games... Greetings from the Chaosbunker Dino
  2. WarCry Ravaged Lands Shattered Stormvault With Warcry filling in the fantasy counter-part of Kill Team, Games Workshop supplies the game with their variant of the Killzones called Ravaged Lands. We have covered a couple of those Killzones already on the blog, for example Killzone: Sector Mechanicus and Killzone: Sector Fronteris. And today we cover the first of the Ravaged Lands, the Shattered Stormvault. The new boxes are a bit more expensive than the Killzones, 70 EUR instead of 65 EUR, but still have a solid bargain. You get the Shattered Temple from the Dominion of Sigmar range twice (usually 35 EUR each), minus one of the pillar sprues, but with the two additional sprues that were only available through the larger and more expensive set, Enduring Stormvault. But just look at the size of that box and the height of that stack of sprues. Impressive and very satisfying. Each of the Ravaged Lands covers additional gaming material beside the plastic kit. There is a double-sided Warcry token sheet, similar to the one you have seen in the starter box, plus 36 terrain cards. These terrain cards are used in combination with the contained terrain, to give you new / additional terrain set ups. And as we know from the Killzones, the Warcry counterpart comes with a double sided 22”x30” gameboard as well. One side shows the corrupted Dominion of Sigmar and can be used to extend the one from the starter box. The other side shows the tiled ground of a stormvault. Main piece of this Shattered Stormvault kit are two floor slabs of the temple, from the Shattered Temple kit. Very solid construction and proper size, as you will see below. No assembly needed and a well done cast, including the details that work well with simply drybrushing. The Stormvault covers a set of pillars, that are included with the Shattered Temple and Sigmarite Dais, along with two sprues that were formerly only available through the large Enduring Stormvault kit, containing two Gryphons, a pedestal and connecting floor plates. The casts are not super crisp, but still more than sharp enough for terrain, mould lines are there but very moderate and easy to remove. The sprues are properly filled, so nothing to argue here. Let's start with the wingless Gryphon. These are very powerful sculpts, reminding me of the lion statue you see in front of a lot of government buildings in the UK, for example at Trafalgar Square. The design is very similar, but has some minor differences. Close enough to be tied together, but no doubles. Well done. They assemble rapidly, you begin with the pedestal and then add the body of the Gryphon on top. Due to the organic shape of the Gryphon there might be some smaller gaps, that can easily be touched up with liquid putty or a bit of plastic glue to wield the pieces together and clean up the seam with a file. This kit comes with two fire cauldrons, and as I did with the Sigmarite Dais, I didn't glue in the fire pit, so you can swap them accordingly. Funny coincident, they use burning skulls, as I suggested in the former review. The flaming material can be swapped from both designs, and the pillars in this kit are more massive than from the Dais / Timeworn Ruins. Next up for the pedestal and connecting plates. There are multiple ways to use these. You can build the pedestal / stairway as piece of its own and use it independently. But you can combine those with the stairs of the temple as well. The plate can be used to connect either two temples with each other, or the stairway with a temple. You can use the stairs / sides and fronts of the stairway as a front or additional bay of the temple foundation. In case you were wondering what the rounded / c-shape connector piece was for. With that you can combine the plates / floor tiles with the rounded edges of the Sigmarite Dais. As you only get one sprue of pillars and pillar bases with this kit, you have to be a bit thrifty with them. Never the less, you get 8 different designs of the bases and pillars themself, with four being intact and another four being in different ruined states. You can align them freely along the edges of the temple and combine them with the stairways accordingly. As I have a spare base and pillar from the dais, I went with five on one of the temples and four on the other. But I have additional plans with the second temple. More on that later. You can upgrade the pillars with torches, there are four different designs, that can be glued to the pillars to your liking. The pieces from this kit can be mixed and combined in many different ways and of course go well with the other items from the Dominion of Sigmar range, like the Sigmar statue or pieces from the Timeworn Ruins. Christian / Fritz painted his set already, with some marble effects and brazen statues. If you're interested (just let us / him know), I am pretty sure, he will prepare a tutorial on how he painted his Shattered Stormvault. And it can be combined / extended with the ruins from the Warcry starter kit. Conclusion As you will know from my reviews on the Killzones, I really like these terrain bundles. And I am more than glad, that they picked up this idea and extended it into the Age of Sigmar / Warcry range. It makes perfect sense and is a well balanced size to start or extend your terrain collection, as the contents are combined by a theme. You receive one and a half kits of the Shattered Temple (because if you would buy the shattered temple twice, you would get an additional sprue of pillars), that's 52,50, you get the Gryphon sprue and connecting sprue, which aren't available individually but surely would be priced around 20 EUR each. Sums up to more than 90 EUR, without the tokens, the card deck and the game board. So a retail price of 70 EUR is a bargain. If you get yourself a set of the Timeworn Ruins along with this Ravaged Lands kit, you are properly set up for most fantasy skirmishes (not only) within the realms of Age of Sigmar. The next Ravaged Lands set that was announced will contain the Azyrite buildings, of which I already showed you the Azyrite Townscape. For my taste another fitting theme / bundle for a small to medium terrain set up, and the Defiled Ruins beat the Blasted Hallowheart clearly in value. It is going to be interesting, which Ravaged Lands we will see beyond, I assume one will cover the terrain from the starter kit later this year, but beyond that I'd love to see some of the Realmgates and Archways bundled up. The old Citadel Forest would have been a great stock to build a box like this on, in combination with other forest themed kits, but I assume the Wyldwood could be something for early next year. Warhammer Age of Sigmar is a brand by Games Workshop The reviewed product item was provided by the manufacturer.
  3. With nowadays technologies I beliebe this nothing else but...a rumour. See what I did there? Seriously...if the company still believes it themselves... So, is it a hint towards a new army? In regards of what I just wrote above I believe this to be a testrun. A CAD can be shredded in seconds if the warband proves to be unpopular. If the box will be generally sold well, we will likely see the CADs for more minis go into production. That simple.
  4. Three more to go and the warband will be complete. As I do not have the core box I will also paint up some terrain, in order to build an own board and buildings. Can't wait to do that, as I've painted terrain so rarely. Lords of WarCry - Da Redfists, Part 4 The nice thing about building up a warband is that you have the opportunity to try something new every now and then. With the fourth member of the Redfists I implemented something that I always wanted to try out: I painted Vorlug in a half-sided pattern. Depending on which side you look at the model from, it looks as if it has either a predominantly red armor or a predominantly black one. Ironically, this is also the fourth attempt I needed for the model and it is the first Ardboy with a two-handed weapon that I finished painting. Before that, the cycle of dissatisfaction and a sterilium bath somehow repeated itself time and again. While I'm working up on my Ardboy stock, I'm wondering whether I should perhaps add one or two more Brutes to the warband. I have always had a weakness for the armored greenskins, but a little change wouldn't hurt. What do you think? Let me know if you also want to see some Brutes in the project! Greetings from the Chaosbunker Dino
  5. As usual, you can support as with a click on our blog, or with a like on Facebook 😉 Lords of WarCry - Da Redfists, Part 3 The younger plastic Ardboys have the tendency to have very large surfaces of armor, which can lead to the Space Marine effect. The Space Marine effect? This is the kind of boredom you get when you paint the same color on large areas for a long time. Although the new Ardboys also have many smaller details, such as pelts or protruding leather shreds, the armour retains its somewhat bare plate look. So it takes some time to get to the point where you add a little more variety to them, such as a flame pattern, a few glyphs, spikes and the like. Izgrod A big mouth and the choppas to back him up, that`s Izgrod. He`s been with the Redfists for a while now and has seen numerous battles. Time has made him posey and the other Redfists rather dislike him for that. Usually Gotmork would`ve just killed the lesser disciplined Orruks, though at the moment Izgrod is too valuable to do so. But as the Redfists numbers will start to grow, his position, and his life, might not be that safe in the future... So that not all Ardboys would look too alike, I tried to create a little variety this time by a subtle detail. I'll probably give the one or the other Orruk a topknot again, simply because it brings more dynamics into the figure. I'm not sure I should attach bones or anything else to the models. On the one hand, it ports the look better into the AoS setting and makes the Ardboys and the Ironjaws look more related. On the other hand, the Bloodtoofs are also backed up by the fact that their Ardboys don't use inferior materials. Which is also the reason why I didn't paint the skulls on the armor bonelike. What do you think? Should I add more gubbinz to the Ardboys to give them a different look, or should I keep them close to their old standard? Greetings from the Chaosbunker Dino
  6. thought about the Cypher Lords too, and I kind of like the Acolytes models better. But I was actually hoping for something that catches a different flair. The box of Acolytes would really make a good warband.
  7. Hi folks! When I looked at the Kairic Acolytes box I kind of felt, that they fit into the setting pretty good lookswise. I wonder why we didn't get some extra cards for them for WarCry. But hey, the community is pretty creative so far. Does anyone use them as stand in for another warband or has made some cards for them yet?
  8. Lords of WarCry - Untamed Beasts, Part 1 Dull drumbeats roar across Jagged Savannah of Ghur, calling the barbarian nomads to arms. Wild warcries mingle with the animalistic roar of the great beasts and are barely distinguishable. It's time to go and prove to Archaon the Everchosen as relentless enough to join his legions. I've got into WarCry, too. I have been skeptical at first, but I could quickly learn a better one at my local dealer with a look in the new box (and in the rule book). The joint project "Lords of WarCry" here at Chaosbunker offers a nice opportunity to document the assembly and the painting of the really extensive box. Since Dennis will be the first to have a go at the buildings and Dino takes on his Orruks warband, I start with the Untamed Beasts warband. The Untamed Beasts are by lore a nomadic tribe in the realm of Ghur, chasing wild creatures to gain their strength and cunning by eating the flesh. As wandering nomads in a hostile environment, they despise solid settlements and forged armor, which in their eyes are signs of weakness. The Untamed Beats believe, that Archaon as the Devourer of the Worlds will destroy the frail civilizations and the tribes of the Untamed Beasts want to be there as his chosen warriors. The idea for the warband Against this background, I quickly had an idea for my warband: as wild hunters and barbarians, the Untamed Beasts are dressed in robes of leather and furs of the slain monsters. This means for the painting: Many different shades of brown for different types of leather and possibly leopard or tiger stripes on the furs (I am just thinking of large saber tooth tiger). Here is a starting point to integrate the Rocktusk Prowler visually in the gang, by repeating the same pattern on the fur. Also, I have the opportunity to try different color recipes for dark or tanned skin tones with the warriors. The weapons consist of bones of hunted down monsters or wooden clubs, into which bone fragments were driven. That means a total of a warm color palette: many shades of brown and bone white. Or a completely different approach: with gray or blue tones desaturated colors for a rather dark overall appearance. Here I am still undecided and will still collect examples for decision. First Steps: Preparation, Assembly and Basing But before I brood too much on an appropriate color scheme, I started with the inevitable first step: the assembly. As Dennis has shown in detail in the first part of his review, all models consist of several components, but they are quite easy to put together. Though the figures have small base elements, such as broken columns or spikes that protrude from the ground, I still wanted to make the bases a little more elaborate and have opted for cork. For this I took a coaster, which can be bought in a large Swedish furniture store, and worked it with pliers. Then the piece of cork was halved again horizontally with a cutter knife, otherwise it is too thick. The advantage of this approach is that you can keep the remains of the cork, which arise when breaking, and use as debris on other bases. Then the open areas, which are not covered with cork, were smeared with PVA glue and in the next step covered with fine sand. I noticed positively: Also quite fragile elements, like the whip of the Beastspeaker or the leash of the javelin of the First Fang, have been stabilized and secured by additional contacts on the base or the model. For safety's sake, I have pinned some larger components for additional stability, this means connected by a small piece of wire. Pinning the miniatures A careless movement or tipping over of the figure while playing quickly dislodges a miniature from the base. Therefore, I put a special attention to the stable connection of the feet again with pieces of wire to the cork (here the example of an Iron Golem). Magnetizing the bases Despite these preparations, I dread the transport of the sometimes quite protruding miniatures in a box. That's why I bought a thin 0.17 mm white metal foil and a picture frame in a hardware store. The foil was cut to the size of the frame and primed with black spray. Each miniature of the warband received a neodymium magnet (small, high-performance magnets) glued under the base. The frame functions as a kind of display board so that I can not only transport the figures upright but also put them in a showcase or on the shelf. The small neodymes are so strong that the figures also hold upside down on the foil. This completes the preparation for the Untamed Beasts and I can start priming and painting the Untamed Beasts in the next article. Until next time Christian / Fritz
  9. And here is the next refresher on my warband. As far as I know the other participants have started to make pictures of their warbands too, so it'll get a lot more mixed in the upcoming days. As usual, support us by a click on our blog or like us on Facebook 😊 Lords of WarCry - Da Redfists, Part 2 Each Ardboy has its own name (even on the underside of the base) and individual character, but all have the same style of paint scheme. I often paint according to certain "recipes", in order to not forget how I did it and to get a homogenous look. With ordinary orcs I wouldn't mind, but Ardboys have a certain talent for discipline and order (in greenskin measures). So I had to be able to create the same colors on more than one model. For the first two Ardboys I used old blackorcs made of pewter. Although I am not a friend of metal miniatures, these were better for practicing than the new plastic models. The surfaces are clearly divided into chain mail, skin, plates, fabric, belts and teeth. Morog A shield wall is a good method to delve deep into the turmoil of battle and the Redfists have almost perfected this method. The shield-bearers push themselves slowly forward in an indicated v-shape, only to suddenly stop, while the boys with the big axes jump over them. Although Morog is quite a simple model, it was an interesting experience to paint him, especially his shield. Below is the recipe for painting the Redfists. Chain mail In order to avoid a later mess by the flying pigments, I drybrushed the chain mail parts first with a dark silver and afterwards with a brighter one. You can vary the degree of brightness as you like, depending on your own taste. If you want to focus the attention on a special spot, you can accentuate some of the chain rings again by hand. Skin I have been developing a fairly simple procedure here for a long time. The basic tone is Sick Green (Vallejo Game Color), where I paint a darker green strongly diluted into the recesses. The first highlight is a 1:1 mix of Sick Green and Goblin Green (Army Painter). The next accent is pure Goblin Green. Finally there are three more accents where I always add some white. Always make sure to leave some of the previous colour visible. Cloth and Beltstraps I painted the trousers with Charred Brown (VGC) as base color, because this tone is much darker than Beasty Brown. I shaded the recesses by adding black, but the highlights were highlighted with Bonewhite (VGC) until I used almost pure Bonewhite for the last accent. The belts were given Beasty Brown (VGC) as the base colour and were shaded and accentuated by the same pattern. However I like to mix some white in the last accent to show some points of tension on the leather. Plate It got really exciting with the plate armor, because I wanted to paint it partly in red and partly in black to have a connection to the Bloodtoofs color scheme. I started with the red plates, because I would be able to correct mistakes if I painted the black plates afterwards. These got dark edge accents by always adding more Cold Grey (VGC) into black. Most of the time after three steps I used pure Cold Grey for a thin accent which I brightened once or twice by adding white. Especially at the corners an accent almost in pure white is important to give the metal feeling. Red got a base layer of Mechrite Red (Games Workshop). However, this is only a carrier layer, the actual base color is Mephiston Red (GW). I shaded the plates with Agrax Earthshade and added a bit of black if neccessary. The first accent consisted of a 1:1 mixture of Mephiston Red and Wild Rider Red (GW), followed by pure Wild Rider Red. Again, I made sure to always leave a little of the previous accent visible. Then I added a little Bronzed Fleshtone (VGC) to the Mechrite Red. Don't overdo it, or the first accent will be too hard. Then I added a tiny amount of white again. At this point you can decide - either you make an additional highlight with a little more white, which is smaller, or you take white directly and put dots on the corners or very sharp edges of the plates. This will look something like this: Teeth The tusks are also an old recipe: the base layer is a dark brown. It doesn't matter which one is used, because it only serves as a carrier layer again. The entire tooth is then painted with Plague Brown (VGC). Bonewhite is now painted in stripes to create the effect of ridges afterwards. The whole tooth is now shaded with slightly diluted Agrax Earthshade (GW). When the wash is dry, the ridges are smoothed again with Bonewhite, but this time only up to about half of the tooth. Finally, a white dot is placed either on the upper third if the ridges still need some finishing, or only on the tip if they are already clearly visible. Well, I'm curious to see if anyone will dare to try the recipe. If you keep the order of the steps, you shouldn't have any problems with later details, because these are mostly on the top part of the surface and therefore easy to reach. Greetings from the Chaosbunker Dino
  10. @Fisher KIng that is how I meant it, not with old stuff. I was talking about fully new warband boxes with a look coherent with the game.
  11. I like that @Lior'Lec. I also think that the non Chaos warbands were included later and that the original size of the game was intended to be much smaller. Therefore I'd like to see some additional Chaos warbands including different races as sub faction characters. For example, 2 "enslavers" with 5 Greenskins for each. Something to give them different flair from the other warbands and an own unique style. Even though I like all the stuff in the Grand Alliances, the other non Chaos warbands just don't feel really fitting to me, except for Gloomspite Gitz, who had a reasonable/believable background story. What I miss as an additional Chaos warband though, is a group of Skaven.
  12. The base size of Ardboys and Brutes is noticably different. Ardboys are visually easy to distinguish: - Two weapons - One big weapon - Carrying a shield - No helmet (boss) If you want to bring them closer to the cards, just give them regular Ardboy helmets. They'll blend in neatly. I really don't see a problem with mixing up helmet or no helmet either. Do it like in any other game. Point at the guy and say "That dude is da boss!".
  13. My guess is, that we're gonna see more Slaves to Darkness in the third Underworld season and a testrun for some new designs of other factions. Initially I thought about Greenskins, but the upcoming Battletome does not look like they will be included there. In my book, they're cut from the range and from the lore. What I could see though is an expansion of warbands for Gloomspite Gitz in the form of Spiderfang. Some folks on foot, seperate Spiderlings and so on would make sense, as they could be used in AoS, Underworlds and with a new warband card in WarCry. The woods theme sems to fit in Underworlds and if I remember right, there was a speartip teasered quite some time ago.
  14. Then I'm pretty irritated why you compare them to these two lines to be honest. I have those too and the style of those minis is VERY 90's. No, that's nothing bad, I believe to see a lot of miniatures from GW at the moment that blend current technological possibilities with 90's flair, but neither lines can keep up with the complexity of model structure GW offers. And that is another reason why I believe the older range is dying - they are not on par anymore with the companys indicated product quality. Though what most minis from GW lack currently, is the possibility of indivualisation, even though it would be possible. THAT is the one advantage other plastic lines have, for example the Oathmark line. On the recent previews the Lizardmenteam for BB has the same problem. EDIT: sorry @RuneBrush, read that after the post, but I'm looking at the announcementas of the recent minis with the mentioned things too.
  15. It's great that you have this very personal, subjective view, only regarding your personal perception of things. I again read "competition" in there. Qualitywise...sorry to say, but the are pretty much the company with the best quality compared to the amount of miniatures they throw on the market. Or do you compare them to some small company, producing...how much? A couple of hundred miniatures? Maybe even a low thousands? Don't get me wrong, neither am I a fan or someone who dislikes the company. It's an objective observation based on numbers (you know, the thing what some folks look at when they want to be competitively good). Aside of that I usually buy miniatures solely in regards of one factor: what they look like. This is what was the first impulse that triggered my interest when I walked by a miniatures store (Welt der Spiele) many, many years ago and I am 100% sure, that this is the first impulse for EVERYONE who did not have contact with tabletop games before. Saying anything else is like saying "I like your character" to a good looking lady before even really knowing her.
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