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Cordova

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37 Lord Celestant

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  1. Well, I voted for the Squig Hoppers, because they're squigs, so it's kinda mandatory
  2. Shame. There's some great models in there (Magma Dragon and Carmine Dragon - both out of stock now) ... I would have loved a Carmine Dragon, but I really can't stand working with resin. Sigh.
  3. It's probably done like this: http://studiogiraldez.blogspot.com/2007/12/how-to-make-snow-como-hacer-nieve.html (tutorial by the man himself) Sorry, it's in Spanish, but Google translate doesn't seem to mangle it ...
  4. Really nice! I think that you can make something very close with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo White & Grey primers (Grey Seer), and ~3:1 mix of White and Desert Tan (Wraithbone). This is based on me using the images in this video as a base (local GW only got 6 cans of each colour, so the examples and play models all used white undercoats), and the bottles of primer I've got.
  5. Dunno if it's of interest, but I popped into my local GW this week - the guys there are really rather decent painters, and are having a lot of fun with them and getting some rather nice results. Interestingly (and counter to popular opinion on the internet, it would seem), one of the staff said that they're "probably not great for beginners" due to them being thin, and correcting mistakes being difficult. They've also done a nice comparison of contrast versus layering (recipe here). I had a brief play with them, and they "feel" a bit like shades when applying them, however, the result is noticeably different. TL;DR is that the results I got in ~5 minutes were significantly better than I thought - rather unsurprisingly, they seem to be particularly effective on highly-textured surfaces, cloaks/billowing robes, shields with sculpted designs, etc. FWIW, I used to be a decent painter, but I haven't painted in a few years due to deteriorating eyesight (of late, whilst I can base-coat cleanly, I've struggled with highlighting due to not really being able to clearly see the tip of the brush, which has led to a fair number of mistakes) - it's been a case of I can't get a result I'm happy with, so I get frustrated and don't paint (and have a stack of Vallejo and Formula P3 paint going unused in the corner...) ... it's looking like these might help get me painting again.
  6. The problem with using water is that it will alter the properties of the paint. For example, using Vallejo's Heavy Charcoal, thinned 2:1 with thinning (acrylic) medium, I can paint around the rim of a base in 1 pass with good coverage and no brush strokes visible. If I thin it in the same manner but using water, the paint will actually "pull down" from the top of the base before it dries, forming a series of elongated "u" shapes, and has reduced coverage. Obviously, Vallejo paints are not GW paints, but they should all behave similarly. Obviously, the above is a fairly extreme example, and probably not applicable if you're just adding a few drops, but just something to bear in mind if you're repeatedly "rejuvenating" your paint.
  7. If it's gone thick, add acrylic medium* to it, and give it a good mix - it should be fine. I had some Vallejo paints that were starting to "go" - they were actually going "stringy" if you dipped something into them. I just kept on adding Vallejo Thinning Medium (acrylic binder) to it and mixing it with a Tamiya paint mixer (but any stirrer would do) until it reached the correct consistency. * for GW, you could get Lahmian Medium. If you're going to use lots, look at Vallejo Thinning Medium (60ml bottle), or Winsor & Netwon/Golden/Liquitex artist's mediums (~200ml bottle).
  8. As far as I'm aware, Nightvault is Shadespire 2.0, and the Shadespire boxed game has been discontinued. The original warbands and cards, and board tiles, are/have been released separately. TL;DR get Nightvault.
  9. I've seen people suggest that the Burning Chariot kit can be used to make a Blue Scribes proxy - don't know if that route would fulfil your aesthetic desires? (if you go that route, have a look at the Start Collecting box, as it'd give you some summonable daemons for not much more money than the chariot, if you wanted them)
  10. They look great! umm ... 30? It's squigs, so the correct answer to "how many?" is ... "more" If anyone queries such trifling matters as "maximum unit size" and "points limits", simply point out that (a) it's squigs, so just bask in the sheer awesomeness of them, and (b) goblins' numbering system is officially "1, 2, lots"*, so what do you expect? Boiiing! * WHFB 4th Ed Bestiary book, I believe
  11. I'm guessing they'd just "find" a city in one of the Mortal Realms, which has some background that gives it a similar "feel" to the Olde World town of Mordheim, give the rules a fix-up, and call it done? Certainly that's what I'd assumed upon hearing Mordheim's being re-done - a v2.0, with the same feel as the original, but transferred to the current setting. For what it's worth, Shadespire (the setting, not the upcoming game) feels "a bit like" Mordheim (to me). On a related-but-slightly-tangential note, from what I've heard (the Warhammer Community post, and some bits on the YakTribe forum), it appears Necromunda 2.0 may be be different to the old game (confirmed expanded background and new gangs, rumoured Frostgrave-style activation with action pools, which could be neat) - I'd imagine Mordheim 2.0 would get a similar treatment, although I could be wrong.
  12. @TheWilddog: Those are some very nice models!
  13. Dettol can be a bit messy, and if you don't do it right (get water on the paint-Dettol mix before getting the Dettol off), you can get some interesting "nobbles" of hardened paint on the model. Another option's methylated spirits (NB I've not tried this): If you're not sure, you could always paint up a bit of sprue and try it on that.
  14. They look good If I remember correctly, one of the old GW tutorials was Brown Ink (Agrax Earthshade?) -> Snakebite Leather (Balor Brown?) -> Bubonic Brown (Zamesi Desert?) or Bleached Bone (Tyrant Skull?), if one wanted some extra highlights ...
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