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Getting Starting - Advice Request


Rob P

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13 minutes ago, Rob P said:

Thanks @Cordova I somehow missed your post.

No worries :)

 

13 minutes ago, Rob P said:

Firstly, how much plastic cement should I be using. I'm bring fairly conservative (thin sliver along one of the surfaces i'm sticking to another unglued surface.

Just a small amount will do (i.e. a thin coat over one surface of the join), otherwise you risk melting too much plastic and getting an "oozy" seam when you compress the join.

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17 hours ago, Rob P said:

Firstly, how much plastic cement should I be using. I'm bring fairly conservative (thin sliver along one of the surfaces i'm sticking to another unglued surface.

I vary how much glue I put on depending on what I'm actually gluing.  If I'm doing two pieces that will be flush together (two halves of a cannon for example) then I'll "overglue" to deliberately get a dribble of melted plastic pushed out which once set I can smooth off without needing to fill.  If the two pieces don't then I'll apply a thin line along both, just enough not to squeeze out.

17 hours ago, Rob P said:

Secondly, the Liberator shield arm on the body piece has what looks like an elbow. I can't get the shield piece to fit on this in any way whatsover. Does the elbow need cutting off flush to the shoulder pad?

You shouldn't need to cut anything off - I've not put the liberators together (stuck with Khorne) but I think some shields only match specific bodies.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've now managed to get all but 6 models from the Age of Sigmar starter set put together and i've sprayed about 60% chaos black. Mostly painless. I'm fairly certain i've stressed the plastic on the wings on one of the Prosecutors so will need to be careful with that one. Also had a few minor issues with shaping the Dracoth and Relictors parchment, but i'm happy for a first attempt.

 

Edit: Also put the Blood Warriors on 40mm. They look better than they would of on 32mm but i've had to source some GW 40mm bases to complete the liberators (4 of the 6 o've not yet put together).

 

I'm going to start painting them towards the end of this week - should I dump my pics here or should I start a new plog?

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A little tip about glue: if you're gluing plastic models, I find that plastic cement, or glue specifically made for plastics, is infinitely better than superglue. This is because plastic cement actually melts the pieces together, forming a solid bond. Superglue just sticks in-between them and will be more prone to break if dropped. 

Model Master liquid cement is what I use, and it's terrific.

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While we are on the subject of plastic glue. Anyone have tips for avoiding those threads of glue that seem to appear everything I apply some. It al ways gets on my model and it's a pain to get them all. 

Are you using liquid glue that comes in bottles or the thick gloopy stuff that comes in tubes? I've used Loctite precision or, more recently the cheap 'Tommy Walsh' glue from Poundland. It's got a proboscis so it's really accurate. Avoid the gloopy glue at all costs. It's like trying to glue with...stuff you wouldn't want to glue with.

Also, I don't bother with plastic glue, just super glue for everything. The number of times I've gone back and repositioned models or changed weapons, or rebased, it's helped to be able to snap them apart. That said, I've never dropped anything major. I may one day learn my lesson.

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Welcome to you and your son to the hobby, Rob P!

I think Plastic Glue (or Plastic Weld) is one of the greatest tools I've found, but I tend to do a lot of conversions so I can readjust on the fly. It also works pretty fast, so you don't need to babysit it like superglue. 

Another thing I've found that has really made things nice is using paint stirrers to prime. Paint stirrers (not sure if they are called something different in other areas/countries) are those flat sticks that look like rulers you get when you buy a gallon of paint at the hardware store. I use poster tac (or blue tac) to put my models on them when I prime. This way, I can move the stick around all over the place, even upside down, to be sure I've gotten complete coverage.

In addition to the step above, I've done zenithal highlighting. What this means is I prime black, being sure i get all the nooks and crannies. I'll then prime again in white, being sure I only get a 'top down' angle where the light would hit. This is a great first step in setting shading for a model, especially if you thin your paints as the Lord of Layers would say :) The best part is it's all easy to do and can really add to the look of your models.

Good luck, and keep posting your questions and progress!

 

large.57e09e6997428_DuncanRuns.jpg

 

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Hey Guys,

To upload pics, just click on the Gallery button on the top right (Header Bar). You'll see a blue 'Add Images' button, click on that. From there, you select your category, Choose Image. You can then do any edits (or skip edits) and your image will be in the gallery,

To have it show in your post, choose Insert Media in the lower right (in the Rich Text box, where you type your posts) and Insert Existing Attachment. You'll then see your image via the gallery, just click on it :)

It sounds like a lot of steps, but it's really easy.

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