Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...
Overread

General Hobby Chatter!

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, JackStreicher said:

I am very interested in the results!

Yeah me too.  I have a friend who does commission painting and he swears by it.  I got a fairly small one to test it out (they get expensive for bigger ones).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yay - finally made a tester that I'm satisfied with. Now onto painting the entire table 😆 (I've assembled two starter sets of terrain, to get more variation, and to be able to get second floors on some of the ruins.) Also building a dedicated Warcry/Kill Team table, and playing with the thought of trying out a bigger table - perhaps 30 x 30" or even 36 x 36" - anyone has tried that? I'm making the table 3 x 4' - that way I can configure it as two regular Warcry tables, 30 x 30" or 36 x 36", and having a nice sideboard for cards and miniatures.(using some 5 mm MDF and laying it onto the table, to make that full size matt into playing fields)

ruintester.jpg

ruinsunpainted.jpg

  • Like 6
  • LOVE IT! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, amysrevenge said:

I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner, excited to try stripping some paint with it.

My local shop used to use one of these. Seemed to work pretty well; would love to hear the results of yours. 

In a smaller, unrelated update, I just completed six of my screamers with a lackluster paint job, but I can't bring myself to care. Remind me in the future never to pick up metal models again. Things are horrible. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old metals is the main concern for me - I love old metals but I have some second hand ones with thicccc varnish that have been challenging to strip, either defeating the milder chemicals or requiring harsher chemicals I don't like to use (the sort that chew through rubber gloves like they were made of cotton candy).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an fyi for Realm of Hysh hobbyists, I noticed with the upcoming Lumineth that people were wondering how aelves were pale in a plane of endless sunlight.

The 2019 White dwarfs show that the magic light of Hysh "bleaches" the skin. For tans you go for the much heavier heats of the realm of fire.

So for those painting armies to ally with (or  tribes that march against!) the Realmlords in their golden realm go for pale and bright skin-tones. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Ryan Taylor said:

I am thinking of selling off anything bar 1 army and only buying when I get it all built and painted. Has anyone else been through this? 

I sold everything except my SCE and CoS armies projects. I need at least 2 project so I can switch - currently suffering hard from SCE gold burnout. I am not sure why but I have a really hard time getting gold on models - might try with a brown undercoat next time.

 

12 hours ago, amysrevenge said:

I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner, excited to try stripping some paint with it.

Please update us, I used BioStrip and it worked okayish on some old metal highelf bolt thrower - although it didn't get all of the paint out from the nooks and crannies  , hopefully the ultrasonic thingy can vibrate those out so no toothbrush is needed :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Baron Klatz said:

The 2019 White dwarfs show that the magic light of Hysh "bleaches" the skin.

oh god... they don't help themselves do they...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
34 minutes ago, schwabbele said:
14 hours ago, Ryan Taylor said:

this- might try with a brown undercoat next time.

A beige/ochre basecoat works best for gold.

Edited by JackStreicher
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, JPjr said:

oh god... they don't help themselves do they...

They didn't say that. They only said that their skin can be burnished (polished, gleaming) - oiled abs an all that. No word on bleaching.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, GuitaRasmus said:

Yay - finally made a tester that I'm satisfied with. Now onto painting the entire table 😆 (I've assembled two starter sets of terrain, to get more variation, and to be able to get second floors on some of the ruins.) Also building a dedicated Warcry/Kill Team table, and playing with the thought of trying out a bigger table - perhaps 30 x 30" or even 36 x 36" - anyone has tried that? I'm making the table 3 x 4' - that way I can configure it as two regular Warcry tables, 30 x 30" or 36 x 36", and having a nice sideboard for cards and miniatures.(using some 5 mm MDF and laying it onto the table, to make that full size matt into playing fields)

ruintester.jpg

Beautiful color test - did you do it akin to the GW tutorial but using slightly different hues rather than just one glaze? Sorry for the annoying question but I feel I could learn a valuable lesson here! :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, michu said:

They didn't say that. They only said that their skin can be burnished (polished, gleaming) - oiled abs an all that. No word on bleaching.

Yeah, bleaching was just how me and my friends described it because of all the shining white and gold models.

Pretty cool how it's like magic radiation rather than just heat with all kinds of effects like translucent skin from burned away corruption and said marble-like polish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, MitGas said:

Beautiful color test - did you do it akin to the GW tutorial but using slightly different hues rather than just one glaze? Sorry for the annoying question but I feel I could learn a valuable lesson here! :)

That's absolutely not an annoying question - the whole point of this forum is to share stuff like this. :)

It's not GW's recipe - tbh, I wasn't a big fan of it; the ruins seem a bit to flat and green (as in not realistic) to me (and you use SO much wash on terrain), so I set about making my own: 

The ruins are primed black, zenith sprayed with Mechanicum gray. Then drybrushed (top to bottom) with Nurgling green, Ionrach skin, Ulthuan gray. The greens and browns (patina) are Agrax, Typhus corrosion and green wash, very thinned down. The black bricks are Black Templar contrast. 

The metal is AV Chainmail, stippled with Typhus corrosion, then Tau Light Ochre, washed with AP Strong Tone, and drybrushed very lightly with Chainmail again.


Drybrushing terrain is very easy, fast, and it is nice to be able to build the colour slowly. Use colour sparingly, and use a cheap makeup brush - it really helps.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, GuitaRasmus said:

That's absolutely not an annoying question - the whole point of this forum is to share stuff like this. :)

It's not GW's recipe - tbh, I wasn't a big fan of it; the ruins seem a bit to flat and green (as in not realistic) to me (and you use SO much wash on terrain), so I set about making my own: 

The ruins are primed black, zenith sprayed with Mechanicum gray. Then drybrushed (top to bottom) with Nurgling green, Ionrach skin, Ulthuan gray. The greens and browns (patina) are Agrax, Typhus corrosion and green wash, very thinned down. The black bricks are Black Templar contrast. 

The metal is AV Chainmail, stippled with Typhus corrosion, then Tau Light Ochre, washed with AP Strong Tone, and drybrushed very lightly with Chainmail again.


Drybrushing terrain is very easy, fast, and it is nice to be able to build the colour slowly. Use colour sparingly, and use a cheap makeup brush - it really helps.  

Thank you very much for your detailed reply/mini-tutorial! I will definitely do something similar to yours (perhaps a tiny bit more blue than a straigther acier color like you have) as I love the subtle color variation you've got going on. Great, great job and thanks again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, MitGas said:

Thank you very much for your detailed reply/mini-tutorial! I will definitely do something similar to yours (perhaps a tiny bit more blue than a straigther acier color like you have) as I love the subtle color variation you've got going on. Great, great job and thanks again!

No problem at all. :) The green tint is all in the Nurgling green and Ionrach skin. If you want it to be more blue, I would substitute those two colours for Fenrisian grey and Celestra Gray - keeping the Ulthuan on top. They are similar shades, but different tints: 

 

Billede 11-02-2020 23.35.47.jpg

Billede 11-02-2020 23.36.07.jpg

If you do this, please upload a picture - I'm curious as to how it'd turn out. :) 

Edited by GuitaRasmus
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, GuitaRasmus said:

If you do this, please upload a picture - I'm curious as to how it'd turn out. :) 

I've been thinking about going for a mix out of Ryleh Grey and some blue for the general tint (I wanted to get that eerie Diablo 3 Pandemonium look) and then highlight with it with a bone-color to add some interest. I've added a very quick photoshop to get the idea across... I don't get to paint at the moment so it might take a while but I'll gladly share it then. :) It's not too different to yours, hence why I asked cause I don't pay lots of scenery and yours was so excellent that your mini tutorial will help me a lot. :)

warycry-test.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've gotten started on my skirmish table; 

Preamble; I've been enamoured with 40k and Fantasy for as long as I can remember. I love the miniatures (first and foremost - it's always been the miniatures), the lore and the game... Well, the game has always been sort of a dark horse for me. I love collecting miniatures, converting them, painting them, and putting them on the table, but the game has sometimes been a bit of a chore, to be honest. I do like AoS and I have a rather large Maggotkin army, almost finished, but sometimes a game of AoS is a bit draining. I sort of lose interest when we get 2-2.5 hours into the game, and the same for 40k - though tbh I haven't played it since 6th. 
I still love the idea of using the miniatures to game with - so for the past few years I've been getting into skirmish (Played a lot of Heralds of Ruin Kill Team, and worked on my own AoS skirmish a couple of years ago). Skirmish ticks all the right boxes for me; fast (I don't lose interest during a game, I can get a couple of games in during an evening - a good thing with an 8 month old "Squig" baby boy), an opportunity to really go to town on conversions and paint, making a warbands lore your own, telling a story with the game, doesn't take up too much space, and much more. So, Skirmish is right up my alley. Although it is the wrong forum for that stuff, I'm also going to make some cool 40k sector mechanicus terrain to go with this table, for 40k Kill Team. 

Anyway; I wondered how to make a table that was as flexible as possible; I would like it to be reconfigurable in size, from 22 x 30" (std. Warcry and Kill Team), to 30 x 30" (which I'm curious to try for Warcry - I like square tables - they don't dictate the direction the battle is fought as much, imo.) 36 x 36" (for larger games) and 36" x 48" (for either two games of Warcry or a single big game). So I came up with this: 

A 36" x 48" table, with a mousepad battle mat on it (for now it just rests on my sofa table - I just got some legs for it from Ikea tonight - they are cheap, stable, and can be screwed off for easy storage) and some 5 mm MDF sheets cut out and laid onto it, to make sort of an enclosure for the battlefield. These sheets also function as a sideboard, which I really like having for dice, miniatures, counters, etc. I am going to spray these black, and probably cover them with black felt, so dice rolls won't make as much noise (really dislike rolling dice on the battlefield). I also need to make a frame for the table, to bump the MDF sheets up against, but I think this will work out really cool - and the narrow sheets on both sides of the table make for a nifty place to put the Warband cards. 

Let me hear what you think, ideas, input, critique. :)

Full table: 

table1.jpg

Standard Warcry size (22 x 30"): 

table2.jpg

30 x 30": 

table3.jpg

(disregard any dust bunnies on the carpet - it's a man cave, not a doctors office. ;)

Edited by GuitaRasmus
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Hobby Progress Challenge we started locally has kept me moving more steadily than I have in years.

Karak Cythral thus far:

IMG_20200219_003541.jpg

  • Like 2
  • LOVE IT! 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a random question for everyone.  While brainstorming for display boards in another thread, I hit upon an idea that lit my imagination, but I'm not sure hiw to implement it.  What kinds if materials would you use to model the chains holding Slaanesh in place?

Edited by Koradrel of Chrace

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Koradrel of Chrace just something like this I imagine - https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Lancuszek-mosiezny-30cm-3-8x2-8mm.html but I imagine you'd probably want much bigger chunkier ones. 

could be a really interesting* modelling project, especially if you were to spray some kind of fixing agent to the chains so they are rigid reaching up and you try to 'model' Slaanesh via negative space.

 

 

 

 

 

* difficult.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@JPjr Heh, yeah, this whole thing, while awesome, just about fried my brain.  I'm not sure I could use actual metal chain, because I think that would actually be too hard to get it to stay upright.  Also, via Wrath of the Everchosen, it took Dhorgar's bite to sever just one link, so the links would probably have to be rather large.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't forget Slaanesh is huge so on Slaanesh the chains might look small even if in reality they are vast. Plus just because it took a huge bite to break doesn't mean they have to be vast in size. 

 

 

As for what chains you could use check out Zinge Industries https://www.zinge.co.uk

They make resin products with a metal core which means you can pose them and they hold position. They do loads of stuff like ammo belts, powercords and chains! I've got some and they do work very well. Real chain can work if you've got both ends secure or laying flat across a surface so you can glue it down; however where all else fails metal cored chains work well.

Search them up on ebay as their chains are currently out of stock on their main website. Zinge chains or otherwise search just for Zinge Industries and you should find them without much trouble. 

Eg I found these for the UK https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zinge-Industries-Flexible-Chain-Set-of-6-Various-Poseable-Resin-New-Bits-S-CHA01/293033016394?hash=item443a20fc4a:g:-coAAOSwc15bOT9K 

Not much more than searching the company name and going through the list of results.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/20/2020 at 8:09 PM, Koradrel of Chrace said:

@JPjr Heh, yeah, this whole thing, while awesome, just about fried my brain.  I'm not sure I could use actual metal chain, because I think that would actually be too hard to get it to stay upright.  Also, via Wrath of the Everchosen, it took Dhorgar's bite to sever just one link, so the links would probably have to be rather large.

According to the the same source (and Slaanesh book) they are also not actual chain but magically mad binding. So there’s no reason why one or more shouldn’t be different. Or if in chain form mad from something else than metal.

so that opens the field up imo. But top of mind IM’s either go actual chains and loop a bit around a thin metal rod to keep it upright. Or go all crazy magical chain with it and cut it out of blue foam. That way it can be big enough that 4 or 5 links already give enough of the impression of an immense chain going out of shot. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Kramer That may be what I wind up doing, though I found some decently large plastic chains than I'm going to play around with this weekend to see if I can glue them into a solid position.  Going by the picture in Wrath, the chains are fairly huge and made half of light and half of shadow.  I'll see what I can come up with.  Thanks for the advice everyone!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, that's totally something I could explain to the wife, no problem.  "Yes dear, I swear I bought these fuzzy hancuffs to help decorate my toy soldiers...."

Edited by Koradrel of Chrace
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...