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RuneBrush

Rune's Legion of Grief...

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I wasn't planning on building another army until something new came along - however the new Legion of Grief we're getting in Forbidden Powers has really enthused me to put together a ghost army.  Because I'm a nutter this has massively grown from "just paint up what you've got in the cupboard" to "let's build something from scratch" - compounded by my idiot brain telling me it'd be nice to play this at Blackout in August...

So without a plan, colour scheme or in truth any idea, I've dug out the remaining sprues from Soul Wars, a couple of other boxes and some limited ed models and started to put them all together.  No guarantee that everything will make it's way into the army, but there's something satisfying about throwing away boxes and sprues!  In fact the Lord Executioner almost certainly won't go in the list because he's astronomically tall and wobbly.

D7SEwF7W4AI88oF.jpg:large

Please excuse the state of this picture!  It's actually not as bad as it looks as last night was me magnetising all of the bases - and I've learnt from experience that if you remember to do this first, you actually make your life a lot easier in the long run.

This weekend I've got two boxes of Bladegheist arriving as I've always liked the models.  My intention is to fundamentally have the army assembled and ready to undercoat when the new Contrast paint range comes out and more specifically the new Grey Seer undercoat is available (which should make spraying these a lot more straightforward).

All being well I'll keep this thread up to date as recently I've not been able to post a lot of the bits I've been working on - this army isn't secret though, so no reason why not to!

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"magnetising all of the bases " - why are you doing this? Sorry, if this is a stupid question.

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33 minutes ago, Sonnenspeer said:

"magnetising all of the bases " - why are you doing this? Sorry, if this is a stupid question.

He probably has a transport system (Armybox) which works with magnets

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29 minutes ago, Sonnenspeer said:

"magnetising all of the bases " - why are you doing this? Sorry, if this is a stupid question.

It makes transporting, storing and playing more convenient

You can get a plastic box, glue a magnetic sheet to the bottom of the box and transport models with magnetised bases like that, same thing goes for storing models, a metal box or, I think, I heard someone was using metal baking dishes or smtg

As the playing goes - recently I've seen no edge movement trays made of either metal or magnetic sheet

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33 minutes ago, Sonnenspeer said:

"magnetising all of the bases " - why are you doing this? Sorry, if this is a stupid question.

Not a stupid question at all!  For transportation, rather than using foam I have a number of cases that have metal shelves.  By gluing a magnet into each base (or in some cases more than one) I'm able to simply mag my models in place 🙂  This also works if you fix baking sheets into Really Useful Boxes.  I prefer this as foam often snags models with delicate or pointy bits and also takes quite a while to remove models from.

One side benefit is that that extra gram or so of weight really helps balance the model whilst you're playing.

2 minutes ago, JackStreicher said:

He probably has a transport system (Armybox) which works with magnets

I've got a mixture of cases now - I've an A+ Case, Battlefoam Magnarack and also KR cases with baking sheets rammed into the bottom.  I've also backed the A-Case Hybrid Kickstarter which will replace my Magnarack when it comes later this year.  They're not cheap - the Magnarack wasn't far off the cost of my Legions army, however I've not yet had a breakage whilst using it and ultimately it'll last forever!

2 minutes ago, XReN said:

As the playing goes - recently I've seen no edge movement trays made of either metal or magnetic sheet

I do plan on picking up some sets of the MiniMagTrays once I'm a bit closer to completion.  Have a read on this thread where Sedge talks a bit more about them: https://www.tga.community/forums/topic/22567-best-aos-movement-trays/

 

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28 minutes ago, RuneBrush said:

I do plan on picking up some sets of the MiniMagTrays once I'm a bit closer to completion.  Have a read on this thread where Sedge talks a bit more about them: https://www.tga.community/forums/topic/22567-best-aos-movement-trays/

I glanced over it previously, considering picking up 40mm trays when they get produced (they probably should make those at some point)

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Update from the weekend.  The first ten Bladeheist have been glued together and are awaiting gaps being filled and I've made progress on the Mortis Engine.  I've also put together the Harrowgheist from Forbidden Power (which also needs some gaps filled).

I'm not going to lie, the Bladegheist were far from the most enjoyable thing that I've put together.  Unlike Grimghast Reapers, the vast majority of the bodies are 3 parts and pretty awkward to put together without having two pairs of hands, which even with careful overgluing has resulted in a number of gaps.  Bizarrely considering it's a much older model, the Mortis Engine has gone together beautifully!

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We now have the release date for the Grey Seer Spray which I'm going to be using for undercoating this army - the 15th.  So I've 3 weeks to purchase the remaining models for the army and assemble them and then eight weeks to get everything painted 🤯😲  Slightly unnerving but still hopefully achievable providing I don't have too many setbacks.

I do also need to work out how to base everything...

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What size and strength of rare earth magnets are you using? I’m about to buy some but am kinda stumped on this issue. Also for larger models do you simply apply more magnets or do you have larger, stronger ones for bigger models?

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14 hours ago, Ragnar Alpaca said:

What size and strength of rare earth magnets are you using? I’m about to buy some but am kinda stumped on this issue. Also for larger models do you simply apply more magnets or do you have larger, stronger ones for bigger models?

For bases I use primarily two different sizes - 4 x 2mm & 6 x 2mm.  Thickness wise, a regular slottabase has a recess of around 2.5mm deep, so 2mm fits quite comfortably, but doesn't touch your metal sheet which means it's easier to move the model off.  It also means that the base is in contact with your metal sheet rather than the magnet, so they don't spin round.  Strength wise I normally use N35 for this, though it's not "that" strong, I've rarely had models come lose in transport - that's not to say they'd stay on if you dropped them down the stairs, but easily enough for travelling on public transport.

The 4mm diameter magnets are fine for 25mm and 32mm bases.  For Nighthaunt, I also use them for 40 & 50mm bases too as the models on top aren't very heavy.  For "normal" models, two 4mm diameter tends to be fine up to 80mm bases.  After that I go to the 6mm diameter ones - oval bases tend to have two at either end, just because they feel more secure :)

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Here's the next potato picture instalment!  Off camera is the assembled Mortis Engine, original 10 Bladegheist models that require gap filling and 45 bases with magnets glued in.  Despite them being some of the least enjoyable models I've started on the last 10 Bladegheist, with 20 Harridans and 2 Dreadblade Harrows as my reward for getting them done! 

I still need to work out the remaining 270 or so points of what I'm going to field, but assembly by the 15th does actually feel realistic now.

 

D8Fd7-QWkAIj1rY.jpg:large

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The last ten Bladegheist have been glued together (awaiting gap filling) and the Dreadscythe Harridans begun!  Must be honest and say the Harridans are significantly more enjoyable than the Bladegheist - to the point where I've decided to pick up another unit of 20 to complete the army!

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Base wise I'm around a quarter of the way through getting them done.  I've glued plasticard onto twenty 32mm bases and all the Chainrasp, so need to trim them down and fill the gaps.  I've then got to glue the sand on.  Most of the characters are done too.  I've yet to start the remaining twenty 32mm bases and the Mortis Engine base.  However I will have another twenty 32mm bases and twenty 25mm bases to sort out when those models arrive.

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I actually feel like I've broken the back of the model assembly - which is good as I've a self imposed deadline of this weekend for it 😉  I also finally have "models on bases" to show, which is far more impressive than a load of bits!  The first Chinese tub contains the 20 Bladeghiest which require gaps filling using epoxy putty.  The second tub contains my second unit of 20 Harridans, these only got glued together Saturday evening, so need joins sanded down and filling (though only using Vallejo Plastic putty as much smaller gaps).

The two Dreadblade Harrows are half way there and just need the join down the horses back tidied up and then work out if I can leave the rider off to paint or not.  I also may try and do them without faces to match the Bladegheist

Base wise, I've got 18 x 25mm and 17 x 32mm bases to glue the textured plasticard on and 23 x 32mm bases to trim the plasticard overhang off and fill the gap.  It's still quite a bit of work but should be possible with a bit of effort over an evening or two.  I've also got the Mortis Engine base to tackle.

The only thing that I've not touched yet is the two units of ten skeletons - I received the models on Saturday but no idea how they'll fit into the time I've got!

D8pkbDXXkAEcaiT.jpg:large

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On 6/11/2019 at 6:43 AM, DeathCat147 said:

That's a lot of floaty ghosts! I look forward to seeing more :)

I have looked at it once or twice and wondered if I've bitten off more than I can chew 😆  Rough count is around 95 in total

2 hours ago, Vasshpit said:

Really like the cobblestone on the bases. 

Thanks, they've actually come out OK and help to blend the difference between the easy to build kit sculpted bases and a regular kit.  I managed to glue the card onto the remaining 17 x 32mm bases last night so just have 18 x 25mm bases to do this to and then trim the edge round and fill in the gaps.  Should in theory be done tomorrow evening so I can glue the sand on Friday.

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On 6/3/2019 at 7:20 AM, RuneBrush said:

For bases I use primarily two different sizes - 4 x 2mm & 6 x 2mm.  Thickness wise, a regular slottabase has a recess of around 2.5mm deep, so 2mm fits quite comfortably, but doesn't touch your metal sheet which means it's easier to move the model off.  It also means that the base is in contact with your metal sheet rather than the magnet, so they don't spin round.  Strength wise I normally use N35 for this, though it's not "that" strong, I've rarely had models come lose in transport - that's not to say they'd stay on if you dropped them down the stairs, but easily enough for travelling on public transport.

The 4mm diameter magnets are fine for 25mm and 32mm bases.  For Nighthaunt, I also use them for 40 & 50mm bases too as the models on top aren't very heavy.  For "normal" models, two 4mm diameter tends to be fine up to 80mm bases.  After that I go to the 6mm diameter ones - oval bases tend to have two at either end, just because they feel more secure :)

No issues with small bases in close proximity? My friend magnetises all of his bases, and says his 25mm ones tend to push/pull on each other when piled in tightly.

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3 hours ago, Swooper said:

No issues with small bases in close proximity? My friend magnetises all of his bases, and says his 25mm ones tend to push/pull on each other when piled in tightly.

I've not had any issues with mine, but I'm massively pedantic about ensuring the polarity of my magnets are all identical on an army.  The N35 are one of the weaker magnets you can get too, which I expect plays a part - would fully expect an N52 to have all sorts of issues due to their strength.

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And another Monday morning update!

D9NoWdvXUAEZ0dm.jpg:large

This is pretty much the whole army.  I made really good progress over the weekend and everything on the two baking sheets is ready to be undercoated.  Over on the right, I've got the base of the Mortis Engine to sort (you can see some flagstone plasticard I've started to cut), the bridge to base and I've glued the torso's onto the legs of 20 skeletons (these are just a much of a pain to tidy up as I remember).

You can also see what I'm considering the next evolution of the spraying stick...  Basically an old hacksaw blade taped to a wooden baton so that I don't need to use blue tack or double sided tape to secure my models 😃

I also managed to get some paint onto the first test model!  This is purely Contrast paints over a Grey Seer undercoat.

D9NoYhJWsAc8fyr.jpg:largeD9NoajjW4AgVQKw.jpg:large

More experimentation required without a doubt!  The Magos Purple veers into the pink range, Shyish Purple is super strong and the Gryph-Charger Orange is quite brown.  However it does enforce that the rough colours I've picked should work.  I also tried a super quick blend into the shadow with Talassar Blue - which was pretty effective although a bit rough as I didn't really thin it enough (and was using a random offcut of plastic rather than a palette), but I can see there being a lot of fun things that the new paints will allow you to do - a lot more quickly than with traditional paints.

One thing I do need to do is to work out if I'm going to apply a zenithal white highlight before I apply paint...

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That's really industrious work! I like those bases, are you planning to use contrast for those as well?

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6 hours ago, Urauloth said:

That's really industrious work! I like those bases, are you planning to use contrast for those as well?

Thanks!  I'm still questioning my own sanity at doing such a big undertaking, but sometimes you just got to role with the punches!  I'm thinking contrast will be the quickest way to go, but need to do some experimentation to see what to do.  One thing that I'm finding is that the contrast colours are pretty easily identifiable and all feel slightly "pastel" because of the way the undercoat shows through.

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Had a bit more experimentation with contrast paints last night.  Each of the purples are slightly different (and you can't really see the chap on the left).  With hindsight, I wish I'd gone for the bone coloured undercoat, although I'm after a cold finish, I think the grey saps the vibrancy out of the contrast colours.

I'm aiming to have another experimentation tonight - I've given 3 models a white zenithal highlight (and also did the tips of the bedsheets on the ones below).

D9Sw56gWsAAOASJ.jpg:large

So to briefly explain - the chap on the left is pure Magos Purple, straight out the pot.  The centre one is Magos with a touch of Shyish Purple, but thinned quite a bit with medium (you can see a lot more grey coming through) and the chap on the right is Shyish but thinned with medium.  You probably can see the blue on the sheets of the centre one too - that was Magos, Shyish and a touch of Talassar Blue - which is insanely strong as a colour and turned the mix blue...  All of them also has thinned Talassar blue glazed into the shadows any anywhere the main contrast colour settled.  Really like this effect although it doesn't show up that well on the photo.

Orange wise, the left-hand chap is pure Gryph-Charger Orange and the centre one has had it thinned about 50/50.  Not happy with either of them as they're not very vibrant - I'm hoping the zenithal white will help to just pick that colour up a bit.

The chap on the left also had his base top covered in Cygor Brown which is so high pigmented it's beyond words!

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Happy to say that a little more experimentation has helped loads - plus a white zenithal highlight which has helped add some missing vibrancy to the colours.

So to explain, the model received a slightly thinned coat of Magos Purple all over (making sure it doesn't pool anywhere).  Once dry, the upper cloth was given a second coat.  Once all was dry I glazed in very thinned Talassar Blue into any area that had a darker patch of Magos on the lower cloth.  I did also try this with Ultramarines Blue.  Sadly the blues don't show up very well in photos (I'll see if I can colour correct it in Photoshop at some point).  I'm going to have another punt tomorrow night, but using a different blue - and letting it dry properly between colours (was a bit impatient)

I also went in with a pure white highlight (though didn't take a photo of that) on the lower bedsheets (it was far too stark on the top part), which actually has helped a lot and surprisingly didn't take too long (bearing in mind I need to do 95 models).  It certainly helped to define the edges.

One star of the show was the new Base Grey Seer which I used to touch up the hands - oh my word, the coverage is fantastic!  I can see this becoming a replacement for Celesta Grey, despite being a fraction darker.

D9X32KbWkAMZKx7.jpg:large

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Thought I'd give a different colour a punt as I'm still messing around with working out what to do.  Think this is a lot more viberant and striking...  Happy to take comments on how to improve though!

No photo description available.

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I like the blue one a lot more than the purples and oranges (which appear very washed out and dull if I'm completely honest), although it needs a little something. Fade to white (or black?) at the edges, and a bright ghostly green on the skin maybe?

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3 hours ago, Swooper said:

I like the blue one a lot more than the purples and oranges (which appear very washed out and dull if I'm completely honest), although it needs a little something. Fade to white (or black?) at the edges, and a bright ghostly green on the skin maybe?

Thanks for that - the blue is a lot brighter than I'd normally go for, but there does seem to be quite a lot of love for it over the more muted colours!  Currently in my head (and as such subject to change!) I think the edges do need pushing a bit lighter (or darker) for a bit of definition.  I put a shade of Drakenhof Nightshade into the shadows, but currently considering using Druchii Violet instead to add a tiny bit of warmth instead.

The bulk of the army is two units of 20 Harridans, so I'm looking at going for striking hair colour on them to really add some zing to the overall army - I think I'm happy with the rank and file having less pop to them.  With such a bright model colour, the bases are going to need to be kept much darker too (certainly not the wishy washy gravestone I've done with Balisicanum Grey)

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