So, what do we think of the new Contrast paints?

[eekamouse]

 

[Kramer]

Okay weird bit of news from my FLGS. I went there to get a pot of black, which I didn't get earlier. 

It, of course, was sold out. The shop owner told me GW is producing... but only shipping out two colours a week. 34 colors means a potential 17 weeks to wait on that one refill... 😕(

[Fuxxx]

Kind of the same story for me. My game store I ordered at told me they only got two colours since my initial order. Some of them they never got. Well, I was told they suppose the summer would be pretty poor regarding contrast - but I'm still hoping the 2 paints a week isn't true. Still haven't had the chance to properly experiment with them.

[Infeston]

Same here for me. I ordered them from a store close to me. They already sent me the paints which were available, but i am still waiting for the rest. 

I am especially waiting for plaguebearer flesh, black templar and the white one to paint my moonclan gobbos. 

[Kramer]

On 7/1/2019 at 12:10 AM, Kramer said:

Okay weird bit of news from my FLGS. I went there to get a pot of black, which I didn't get earlier. 

It, of course, was sold out. The shop owner told me GW is producing... but only shipping out two colours a week. 34 colors means a potential 17 weeks to wait on that one refill... 😕(

A, hopefully useful for @Fuxxx and @Infeston, update on my previous post. Randomly my girl walked by a GW store and got the black I was missing and asked after the delivery times. According to that store owner GW stores are able to keep up a normal pace it’s just the flgs’s that are behind in the cue. So that’s helpful if you have a GW store nearby. 

EDIT: due to @Overreadreply, indeed for further context this is in Holland for what it’s worth. 

Edited July 2, 2019 by Kramer

[Overread]

Makes sense, it might also vary region to region - ergo countries/regions with no GW stores might well get priority over regions where GW has their own stores on the highstreet as well. 

[gjnoronh]

2 hours ago, Kramer said:

A, hopefully useful for @Fuxxx and @Infeston, update on my previous post. Randomly my girl walked by a GW store and got the black I was missing and asked after the delivery times. According to that store owner GW stores are able to keep up a normal pace it’s just the flgs’s that are behind in the cue. So that’s helpful if you have a GW store nearby. 

EDIT: due to @Overreadreply, indeed for further context this is in Holland for what it’s worth. 

Also I suspect as with any distributor large high volume accounts (FLGS or not) get more priority on hard to get items then others.  I've seen that in play with various manufacturers over the years. 

I also have seen FLGS be 'unable to get' some orders because of ****** ups in how they handle ordering something that they should have preordered but didn't.  

 

[Kramer]

48 minutes ago, gjnoronh said:

Also I suspect as with any distributor large high volume accounts (FLGS or not) get more priority on hard to get items then others.  I've seen that in play with various manufacturers over the years. 

I also have seen FLGS be 'unable to get' some orders because of ****** ups in how they handle ordering something that they should have preordered but didn't.  

 

Oh absolutely. Don't blame anyone in that line of production to consumer but if I had known the restock would take that long I would have bought black and several other colours. Now for me a GW store is a relatively short journey but that's not the case for everybody. 

Your second point is also a valid question. I have no idea if they messed up their own orders or not. But that the restock will take that much time will hurt the FLGS owner. Which is a shame. (just like I think it's a shame some models are webstore exclusive only, somehow I end up fancying those the most 😂, but that's a different conversation)

[Click5]

One small thing that kind of bugs me, I haven't seen mentioned really... the contrast specific primers are designed to have less tooth so the contrast paint can flow appropriately, well this has given me a bit of trouble when using normal paints over the top of it.  Normally thinned down paint goes over the top of Wrathbone and Grey Seer kind of splotchy, so I'm actually spending more time base coating.  Something to keep in mind if you are not using strictly contrast paints

[Kramer]

18 minutes ago, Click5 said:

One small thing that kind of bugs me, I haven't seen mentioned really... the contrast specific primers are designed to have less tooth so the contrast paint can flow appropriately, well this has given me a bit of trouble when using normal paints over the top of it.  Normally thinned down paint goes over the top of Wrathbone and Grey Seer kind of splotchy, so I'm actually spending more time base coating.  Something to keep in mind if you are not using strictly contrast paints

Good call, I just primed a first stormcast to test just that. I’ll see if the same happens to me.

first thoughts on the black over wraithbone spray, which has a really clean one spray finish, is that one layer works. But unless it deepens more overnight, it’s either going to need a second coat or it will stay relatively bright  

 

[RuneBrush]

6 hours ago, Click5 said:

One small thing that kind of bugs me, I haven't seen mentioned really... the contrast specific primers are designed to have less tooth so the contrast paint can flow appropriately, well this has given me a bit of trouble when using normal paints over the top of it.  Normally thinned down paint goes over the top of Wrathbone and Grey Seer kind of splotchy, so I'm actually spending more time base coating.  Something to keep in mind if you are not using strictly contrast paints

Out of curiosity, what paint were you applying?  I've used Dryad Bark, Std Mech Grey and Leadbelcher without any issues straight over Grey Seer - but they're all base paints which may have contributed.

[Thorsten]

my take on them_: use them for small, horde battleline armies and add some extra highlight and shade and you will have a great mini for the average painter. For your big models still use your regular technique imo. cant speak for pro painting but i guess a good painter can make every colour and mini look amazing.

[Click5]

15 hours ago, RuneBrush said:

Out of curiosity, what paint were you applying?  I've used Dryad Bark, Std Mech Grey and Leadbelcher without any issues straight over Grey Seer - but they're all base paints which may have contributed.

The main offender for me was Castellan Green.  I was trying to power through a bunch of Cadian infantry by priming in Wraithbone and hitting the fatigues with Aggaros Dunes, but then blocking out the armor took two to three thin coats.  My next attempt was to essentially wash the entire mini in Aggaros Dunes to add tooth to the parts that will then be green, but then I just figured, why don't I just prime them in Zandri Dust block out the colors and wash everything in Agrax Earthshade?

[Clan's Cynic]

They're fantastic for cloth, they're good for skin, they're horrible for anything flat. The main offender I've found is Creed Camo which for a paint presumably designed for Cadian armour - the hint is in the name - it would go on better than most, but it's closer to a darker Hexwraith Flame than anything else.

[Weazel]

Just dropping my 2c after a week or so of contrast painting. They are absolutely brilliant. I haven't had this much FUN with painting since I started airbrushing. I'm getting so much stuff done that would have taken me ages to finish with conventional methods (or to be frank, would probably have remained unpainted).

Now I'm not a beginner painter by any means, I'd probably rate myself in the late intermediate stage (and to be honest I just don't have the time nor patience to push into advanced territory). But I just wanted to put it out there that contrast paint jobs do not "need" additional highlights and shades to qualify as passable playing figures.

I'm adding a couple shots here to illustrate my point. These are pure contrast paint jobs (one coat) over a zenithal prime. Only things layered are the dots on some of the mushrooms, otherwise it's just Contrast Magic (tm).

Edit: Seems the forum scales these down quite a bit, here are the links for bigger versions (should they work): Picture 1 & Picture 2

 

Edited July 4, 2019 by Weazel

[Kirjava13]

Contrast paints have helped me up out of a dark hole by making things very simple, and thus ensuring that I can make the minimum possible effort to paint. Without them, I might not have found the energy or will to paint again, and then there is a very real chance that the hobby and whatever joy it brings me would have gone away, at the very least for a while. So... thanks, Contrast. You make hordes of Clanrats easier, and you've helped me find some happiness in my hobby again.

[Lord marcus]

I've really liked them so far. The darker colors gradient well.

 

You can see more in my Freeguild blog

 

 

[Grimrock]

Quick question for people that have had a chance to use their painted models, are the reports that the paint rubs off during play true? I've been thinking of picking some of the paints up for a new project but if I have to varnish everything after painting I'll probably pass.

[Overread]

1 minute ago, Grimrock said:

Quick question for people that have had a chance to use their painted models, are the reports that the paint rubs off during play true? I've been thinking of picking some of the paints up for a new project but if I have to varnish everything after painting I'll probably pass.

It's true you do need to varnish, even GW admits this is the case and its why they paired the launch with brush-on varnish options as well. It does add another stage, but it protects the models and helps avoid the paint rubbing off. Even regular paints would take wear and tear just not "as fast" so really varnishing is something any active gamer should learn and do when it comes to putting painted models on the table. 

[Grimrock]

4 minutes ago, Overread said:

It's true you do need to varnish, even GW admits this is the case and its why they paired the launch with brush-on varnish options as well. It does add another stage, but it protects the models and helps avoid the paint rubbing off. Even regular paints would take wear and tear just not "as fast" so really varnishing is something any active gamer should learn and do when it comes to putting painted models on the table. 

That's really unfortunate. I've been wargaming for almost 20 years and I've never had a need to varnish plastic models. Pewter maybe, but even then it was usually good enough to have a decent carrying case and just avoid having them rub together. Plus I've never liked how they change the finish on a model I've spent so much time getting just right. 

Thanks for the response though!

[Overread]

http://iwillnevergrowup.com/2014/03/28/hobby-tips-gloss-varnish-vs-matt-varnish-the-logical-myth-explained/ this might help with your varnishing. 

4 minutes ago, Grimrock said:

That's really unfortunate. I've been wargaming for almost 20 years and I've never had a need to varnish plastic models. Pewter maybe, but even then it was usually good enough to have a decent carrying case and just avoid having them rub together. Plus I've never liked how they change the finish on a model I've spent so much time getting just right. 

Thanks for the response though!

 

[Inquisitorsz]

6 hours ago, Weazel said:

Just dropping my 2c after a week or so of contrast painting. They are absolutely brilliant. I haven't had this much FUN with painting since I started airbrushing. I'm getting so much stuff done that would have taken me ages to finish with conventional methods (or to be frank, would probably have remained unpainted).

Now I'm not a beginner painter by any means, I'd probably rate myself in the late intermediate stage (and to be honest I just don't have the time nor patience to push into advanced territory). But I just wanted to put it out there that contrast paint jobs do not "need" additional highlights and shades to qualify as passable playing figures.

I'm adding a couple shots here to illustrate my point. These are pure contrast paint jobs (one coat) over a zenithal prime. Only things layered are the dots on some of the mushrooms, otherwise it's just Contrast Magic (tm).

 

Those look pretty. 

When you say Zenithal prime, how did you achieve that? 
Did you prime black then spray Grey Seer or Wraithbone from the top? Or did you airbrush the contrast base colours over a darker primer? 
Did you use black or grey as the darker primer? 
Does the contrast paint flow/pool differently across the different primers? That's what I'm worried about regarding mixing primers. Does the surface finish change much? Or did you gloss varnish over the primer to smooth it all out? 

I haven't had a chance to stuff around with zenithal priming or preshading with contrast yet. 

[Lord marcus]

3 minutes ago, Inquisitorsz said:

Those look pretty. 

When you say Zenithal prime, how did you achieve that? 
Did you prime black then spray Grey Seer or Wraithbone from the top? Or did you airbrush the contrast base colours over a darker primer? 
Did you use black or grey as the darker primer? 
Does the contrast paint flow/pool differently across the different primers? That's what I'm worried about regarding mixing primers. Does the surface finish change much? Or did you gloss varnish over the primer to smooth it all out? 

I haven't had a chance to stuff around with zenithal priming or preshading with contrast yet. 

Zenithal priming is a priming method we're over a black undercoat you then spray prime from the top of the model with a white or gray undercoat.

[Inquisitorsz]

7 minutes ago, Lord marcus said:

Zenithal priming is a priming method we're over a black undercoat you then spray prime from the top of the model with a white or gray undercoat.

I know what it is. 

I'm asking about its application specifically for contrast paints and how it relates to the different special contrast undercoats. 

I know wraithbone and grey seer aren't 100% required but it does work better and it's easier than getting a consistent finish with corax white. 

I mentioned some other techniques in my post. That's why I'm asking for more clarification 

[TheNotebookGM]

As someone who is a totally novice/****** painter it is nice to have something that lets me get something passable on the table. Working on things for the slow grow at my club is far less daunting when I can get a unit done in an evening or two of dedicated painting.