GuyDenning Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 I've had a trawl back on this topic thread and can't find the answer so... I'm using Revell plastic cement for the standard Sigmar figures with no problem. But I've bought a set of witchy things from Raging Heroes and that glue isn't working (I presume because the resin isn't melted by the Revell solvent. Had a quick look online and there was the odd mention that resin kits are best stuck together with super glue. So went and bought some, squirted it ... nuffink going. I tried scratching the surfaces up a little but it still wouldn't hold. In desperation I even tried a little Revell/Superglue shandy and the only thing that stuck together was my fingers. Any advice from longer term modelers out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overread Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Ok so a few tips to help you out 1) Plastic glues used for models (such as GW and Revell etc...) all work the same sort of way. They melt the plastic from both halves and then the active element evaporates and the plastic solidifies. Thus the bond is formed and its generally pretty strong to near impossible to break without snapping the parts apart. 2) Resin models often come with a release agent on them from the mould. As a result ALL resin models need to have a quick wash before you assemble them. A simple bit of warm (not hot) water with a tiny bit of soap in it. Then use a worn old toothbrush and give them a light scrubbing. You shouldn't harm the resin surface at all and you're only agitating to get the mould release agent off. Rinse to get the soap off and then leave to dry. If you don't do this then glues might not work and paints might not work either. 3) Superglues generally work by forming a thin layer between both surfaces to be joined and then the glue "bonds" to both halves. Thus the glue forms a gripping layer between the two - which is why on a poor bond (or if you freeze it to make the glue more brittle) you can "snap" the joins apart sometimes. It's also why I clean both join areas so that they are smooth and flush to each other and then, as you've tried, score the join areas with a blade in a crosshatch pattern. This increases the surface area a lot and thus makes the bond much stronger. It also generally helps the superglue to bond more quickly initially. 4) Superglues can take a bit of time to get tacky and make a bond strong enough to hold. Note that even when they are in this state it might still take some hours for the glue to fully cure and set rock solid. In addition I find that metal to metal is the slowest; whilst resin to resin is normally pretty fast. Scoring makes a dramatic difference to both! 5) An old trick to speed things up is to use a VERY tiny bit of greenstuff (modelling putty) in the join area. When I say small I mean seriously small - whatever amount you have cut in half and use that. The greenstuff won't hold a join at all, its all on the glue, and you don't want it to form a greenstuff layer between the two surfaces fully. However Greenstuff is somewhat sticky and when it encounters superglue it all cures a bit faster. As a result it can help hold two parts together whilst the glue between the metal regions bonds - though personally I used this a lot, I've used it far less since I started crosshatching the join areas. Note as you tried plastic glue you might find you need to use a scalpel blade to scrap the joint areas of the parts clean and then give them another wash as whilst the glue might not have worked it might have left deposits upon it which are messing with the superglue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyDenning Posted February 18, 2019 Author Share Posted February 18, 2019 Splendid advice. I shall return to the glue splattered trenches tomorrow evening, and post news from the front. Thank you very much and may your Daughters of Khaine reign supreme over whatever tabletop they're lording it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammer49 Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Id say wash it in soap y water not too warm though as you could weaken the resin or make it easy to bend and then use superglue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyDenning Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Thank you. Hopefully it won't be hammer time with the kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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