Sheriff Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Thats mental. is it your full time job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davariel Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 @Mohojoe ... That workload is nuts (the stardrake alone would take me months) - best of luck getting it all done! As for me I'm going to keep it basic and just pledge to paint... something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastercrafted Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Struggled last month due to stag do, jiujitsu tournament, job interviews and getting married. Have little on this month so i'm aiming high, wanna build and paint to minimum tournament requirements - Slaughterpriest, bloodstoker, bloodsecrator, 20 blood reavers, 5 blood warriors and a khorhorath. Hoping i can get 2000 points ready and get out for my first AOS games before year end Gonna be a challenge, partly due to my new snes mini as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOtherJosh Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 15 hours ago, Mohojoe said: Big thanks to @TheOtherJosh for picking up my slack this month! This months pledge is to build and paint to a tabletop standard: 10 liberators 10 judicators 5 paladins 2 dracothian guard 1 celestant prime 1 knight azyr 6 prosecutors 1 celestant on star drake I have 12 days to go before a tournament and its 75% built... HELP ME At least they're Stormcast? From a painting perspective, I've heard them referred to as the "Necrons of AoS" they can be simple or complex ... depending on the amount of effort you want to put into them. ... I've seen your work, so I have faith in your abilities ... even if you're not going the ez-button I'm sure you'll manage to pull it off I recommend following the Hobbyist Guide to time Management Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOtherJosh Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 10 hours ago, Davariel said: @Mohojoe ... That workload is nuts (the stardrake alone would take me months) - best of luck getting it all done! As for me I'm going to keep it basic and just pledge to paint... something. What do you think you want to paint (or build? It doesn't have to be Painting ... we're not that restrictive ) I'm pretty excited about the new Shadespire stuff coming out myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 I'm tempted to assemble an arachnarok this month too. Anyone done one of these before and can share tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeusLeDieu Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 First time pledge, Hope to complete the nurgle half from the Blightwar Box. Assembled yesterday, ready for undercoating and pri-shading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiceIfILikeIt Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 On 10/2/2017 at 3:13 AM, Sheriff said: This technique is fascinating! Would you mind summarizing the process here? e.g. how many layers of wash? You must have to wait for each one to dry too? Or they mix into each other? My process is Chaos. I couldn't tell you how many layers of wash - I just keep adding it until it looks right to me, and I'm way too impatient to let them dry in between, so they are very much mixed together wet. Basically, I set out all of the washes and the figures on a lap desk and worked on them while we watched football. In general, I applied the lightest shade of a color for each area of each model like a wash equivalent of a basecoat. Then, I added more of the same or darker shades in the bits that seemed like they should be darker, and complementary colors in whatever spots that seemed like they should be differentiated. Plus nuln oil on really dark spots or mistakes. Oh, and some blood and Nurgle's Rot on the "sores" of the book. 'Cause ewww. ;-) Also, I am proud to say I didn't spill any of the washes this time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 3 hours ago, Sheriff said: I'm tempted to assemble an arachnarok this month too. Anyone done one of these before and can share tips? Leave the legs off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 4 hours ago, ZeusLeDieu said: First time pledge, Hope to complete the nurgle half from the Blightwar Box. Assembled yesterday, ready for undercoating and pri-shading. I know Grandfather Nurgle doesn't give more than you can handle . . . But those pencils! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Praecautus Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Two blood warriors done on my pledge and 3 built, another 7 to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeusLeDieu Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 First step complete, i'll have to break out the brushes tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 I'll be very interested to see how things turn out for you as we seem to be going for similar themes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Progress tonight - managed 7 more of these little gits. Here is the full gang! (Might be ready to actually start playing them soon...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwiceIfILikeIt Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Started a pink horror with just washes so far. Will need to add some regular paint to get him pinker, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mohojoe Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 13 hours ago, Soulsmith said: Leave the legs off. What he said! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheriff Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Mohojoe said: What he said! You mean leave off the legs whilst painting it, or forever? I don't want a spiderfang slug! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 7 hours ago, Sheriff said: You mean leave off the legs whilst painting it, or forever? I don't want a spiderfang slug! While painting. Best to paint spider body, legs, howdah, and grots all separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOtherJosh Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Soulsmith said: While painting. Best to paint spider body, legs, howdah, and grots all separately. You'll also want to scrape the paint off the connecting surfaces when actually doing your glue-together after you complete the painting. Having experience on the gluing after painting ... I will say that the glue doesn't hold as well if trying to "melt" through the acrylic paint. (And one shouldn't use superglue for the plastic models.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 4 minutes ago, TheOtherJosh said: You'll also want to scrape the paint off the connecting surfaces when actually doing your glue-together after you complete the painting. Having experience on the gluing after painting ... I will say that the glue doesn't hold as well if trying to "melt" through the acrylic paint. (And one shouldn't use superglue for the plastic models.) Aye, this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kramer Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 11 hours ago, TheOtherJosh said: And one shouldn't use superglue for the plastic models.) Why not? Because I used to use the gw plastic glue as a kid, plastic glue from the hobby shop. and comparing those models to the ones I glued with super glue seem not as sturdy. Especially 15 years later when I unboxed them, the super glue models have survived the, multiple, moves a lot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spidero Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Barely touched the ol' brushes in recent months, so here's a pledge to try get me commited to doing something. This month I will paint... a liberator. It's a very modest model count, but ambitious on the technique front. I'm super psyched about shadespire and the stormcast models seem like they'd look lovely with a NMM paintjob, so this month I will try and learn the techniques by painting a NMM liberator. It's about time I pushed myself to learn something outside the infamous and often effective "Duncan Method". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOtherJosh Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 3 hours ago, Kramer said: Why not? Because I used to use the gw plastic glue as a kid, plastic glue from the hobby shop. and comparing those models to the ones I glued with super glue seem not as sturdy. Especially 15 years later when I unboxed them, the super glue models have survived the, multiple, moves a lot better. If you're using less and pinning, sure it can be viable. But superglue tends to be a strong but brittle connector. And when stuff bounces, it breaks. For plastic glues they melt and "weld" together. So, stuff with superglue tends to break when dropped whereas plastics glued with plastic glue don't tend to, as they're welded together. I cant talk to the quality of the old GW plastic glue, as there have been many formulations for glue, but I do know that some "kid safe" plastic glues (which typically smelled like citrus) were better for "safety" than from a gluing standpoint. (At least they were non toxic if eaten.) Like everything in the hobby world your individual experiences may be different from mine But superglue for metal and resin and plastic for plastics. (And PVA for clear windshield types to avoid crazing or melting.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulsmith Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 In fairness, I will sometimes use super glue to affix plastics once they've been sub assembly painted. But usually only the more fiddly parts that are tough to score to allow plastic to have contact. Or if I am lazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spidero Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 12 minutes ago, Soulsmith said: In fairness, I will sometimes use super glue to affix plastics once they've been sub assembly painted. But usually only the more fiddly parts that are tough to score to allow plastic to have contact. Or if I am lazy. I hear blu-taccing over your joins for your sub assembies when you prime works pretty well. Never really used sub assemblies but think i'll be trying it out for Mr Liberator. I think I'd fall into the I am lazy trap when it came to scoring too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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