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Stevewren last won the day on September 24 2016

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About Stevewren

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    Dracothian Guard
  1. I'm afraid you're pretty much out of luck. You could chance your arm, but if you get caught expect to be asked to have the models removed. However there are plenty of independent events that are much more flexible in the models you can use.
  2. For the Realm of life table I wanted to add in a piece that called back to the Old World, so I thought that an Elven Waystone dedicated to Allarielle would be a nice way of doing this. It could be kept standing through the powers of the wanderers and have some magical effect that bolstered the Sylvaneths power. One of the challenges with making this from blue foam is keeping all the angles consistant. To solve this I b cut a rectangular block and then cut a wedge from a a second piece to make sure the angle would be consistent. Each time I made an angled cut along he long sides I kept the off cut and taped it back on so that I was always cutting from a rectangle. This meant that the shape would be consistent throughout. I cut the waystone and the square base together and joined these with cocktail sticks and silicon glue. I drew on a lot of the detail with a pencil to make the indented pattern and then glued on some half beads and the elven letters that I cut from a stencil. The top of the waystone was decorated with a small circular gourd that came from the lake town house kit from The Hobbit range. The Plinth was made from thin slices of blue foam that I laser cut. I was able to engrave on the stone shapes and runes which saved a lot of time. I had to play around with the power setting n the machine to get a good effect though. When this had finished I glued them all together onto a hardboard base. The edges were sanded and I cut the edges with a craft knife to roughen the stones appearance. I also cut some steps from cardboard that I could glue down. Painting was a quick job. First I gave the whole thing a coat of blue tester pot paint from B&Q before spraying it all with greys and browns. I did the waystone and the plinth separately. Then I drybrushed the whole thing with Wrack white and Terminatus Stone before spraying the half beads and the top gourd with a bright blue to create the OSL effect. Its a bit non specific, but it does the job. I then edge highlighted a lot of the stone work and drew on the cracks in the steps with a sharpie and white paint. The final step was to glue the whole piece together and add some flock, tufts and bushes.
  3. One of the things that I have wanted to make ever since the South Coast Grand Tournament was my very own Silver Tower as the centrepiece terrain feature or my Tzeentch table. I wasn't sure what to use as the start of the model though, until I came across this cheap (£6.99) lighthouse from The Range. I thought with a bit of tweaking it would work as the base for the model. The first thing that I did was remove all of the shells and nautical decoration. It had al been attached with a glue gun so a quick go at it with the hobby knife allowed me to remove a lot of the detail and then I could sand down some bits that were a little rough. However the lighthouse now needed to be AoS'd a little bit. To start with I designed a Tzeentch pattern that I got from the floor tiles from the silver tower game. I scaled them so they were larger at the bottom than the top and then I cut them out carefully. I needed three patterns to go round the tower as well as a couple of extra bits to hide the window and door openings. Once they were cut out I used spray glue to attach them to the lighthouse. I had to go round some of the designs with superglue to get them to stick securely. The next step was to cut away the central pillar at the top. I drilled two holes in the top section and the main piece that could be joined by some wooden dowel. I then drilled a hole through a table tennis ball which was going to act as the eye of Tzeentch. I then used the laser cutter to cut out the nine Tzeentch spikes that would go round the top section. For final decoration I glued on some of the bits and pieces left over from the Lord of Change kits to add some more flavour to the design. I I then made a new Tzeentch disc style base which I attached to the original wooden base. I drilled a 20mm hole into the bottom using a Forstner bit and glued a piece of clear acrylic tube into it. To make it look magically powered I used expending phone around the bottom and stuck a load of the spare Lord of Change heads into it. At this point I also made a base from MDF and lots of filler to give it some weight. I covered the pole with masking tape so that could paint the base. With all the building now finished I was able to get on with painting the model. I painted it in four sections - the base, the tower, the base of the tower, and the eye. The base was painted brown and grey, then dry brushed and flocked. I used a lot of blue and white spray paint to paint the magical cloud at the bottom, then sprayed the top silver. Some of the silver went onto the blue but I really wasn't concerned by this as it added to the mystical appearance. I then gloss varnished the cloud. I also edge highlighted all the silver parts as well. The eye was sprayed with shades of blue and then I quickly picked out a nebula pattern with white on the eye. Again this was given a glossy finish. I sprayed the tower with leadbelcher and then hit it with a silver spray to pick out details. I used the light blue to do the lighting effects on the tower. I used a little bit of gold on the top just for some contrast. Everything was then glued together using mitre adhesive. All I need to do now is to create some exciting game rules to go along with the piece....
  4. At fist I thought you had used the 40K Promethium Pipes. The Hirst Arts molds have worked a treat. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.
  5. The Polluted Pools These are made from the old 40K craters. I picked a set up and they were cheap, but they were a bit broken up. Before I could do anything I had to fix the holes and clean up the dodgy centres. I did this by replacing a lot of the areas with bark and then filling in all the the remaining areas with the air drying clay (I'm becoming a fan of the stuff over filler for different things). Once this was done I sanded the edges and based them onto some hardboard to make them more rigid. Once this was done a i glued a Reaper Bones Pox Worm into the centre of each pool along with some hobby craft half beads. I then painted them with the spray cans. Again it was Caliban green for the water before the bright green went on. This time I poured some woodland scenics into the craters to make them glossy. After that dried I then quickly painted the worms and glued on the aquarium plants and the tufts and flock to finish off the pieces.
  6. Thats very nicely done. Lovely colour scheme
  7. My Nurgle table for Warhammer Achievements is coming along nicely. So far I have done some large slimy line of sight blocking terrain, a polluted Shimmerfalls, some Fetid Swamps, and a floating Island. All that is left is a diseased river which is currently under construction. The Bloated Growths I used expanding foam to make these, which makes for very quick terrain. I laid out a large sheet of grease proof paper and then squirted an entire can into piles of various sizes. I then left these to fully expand and cure, which takes about 24 hours. Once they were fully cured I ran them through the bandsaw to get a flat bottom and then glued them onto hardboard bases. I used PVA glue for this and then left the to dry with elastic bands around them to hold them firmly onto the bases. Once these had set I sanded the edges before base coating the slime with some random paint from a tester pot. Once this was dry they were spray painted Caliban green and then highlighted with a really bright green and some white followed by a coat of gloss varnish. The edges were painted brown and then dry brushed with Terminatus Stone. Finishing touches were done with Aquarium plants and some tufts just to add some interest. The Pollution of the Shimmerfalls. This was one of the cool images that are on the maps in one of the first Realm Gate Wars books. To make the Shimmerfalls I got a piece of 12mm MDF (could have been less thick in hindsight) and this was detailed with playback and air drying clay and then sanded. To make the falls themselves I took a sheet of perspex and cut it to the length I wanted, then I line bent the two ends. One end was screwed into the MDF base and the other was where I planned to put the pox cloud that was polluting the water. Once this was all attached I poured clear casting resin mixed with some Athonian Camo shade in to the pool. The waterfall itself was created using clear shower sealant that i piped on with a gun, and then textured with cocktail sticks to drag all the sealant down. I started putting the expanding foam on. This time i did it in layers, adding cocktail sticks to the foam so that the new layers had something to adhere to. Once this was dry I painted the whole thing with blue tester pot paint before spray painting it all the same a s the Bloated Growths above. To finish the piece off I painted a Plague Drone and stuck it on the top to show how the waterfall had gotten polluted.
  8. I loved the lord of change model so much I painted 4!
  9. I saw this the other day and I've just managed to win one on Ebay for £10! This strikes me as a good deal! Thanks for the inspiration
  10. Take it with as much scepticism as you like, but rumours are that there will be a big Nurgle release 'soon' plague bearers will still be around in some form, be it a rerelease/repack or a new sculpts. Also eBay and the secondary market isn't exactly short of these models! What we do know is that poxwalkers apparently aren't coming to AoS in their current form.
  11. I always base terrain. It helps to ground it on the table. Also you can match it to armies. I tend to paint between 6-8 pieces of scenery for each army I do so I try and base them the same. As an example here is the latest piece I did. Based it to match a lava mat I have:
  12. The Plan Here you can see the original drawing I did and the image from the Blades of Khorne book that Inspired it. The first piece I wanted to was a Blood Altar of Khorne. Building the Alter Base I've wanted to build a lava table for a while and running Warhammer Achievements has given me the option to do it. One of the centre piece items I wanted to build was a big alter that is dedicated to Khorne. I set out by cutting out some blue foam to make the main base and the steps. I angled the cuts and then went round the top with a craft knife to just rough up the edges and make it not too regular. I then drew out the base on hardboard and cut this to shape to match. Next I had to get a bit more technical. I drew out the Khorne symbol in 2D Design and then cut it out on the laser cutter. I did two parts so that I could have a recess that I planned to fill with some sort of blood effect. I cut these from Hardboard as well and then glued them together with PVA glue. I then attached this to the blue foam with silicon glue as this glues better than using PVA. The next step was to run some filler around the edges and then add sand onto the base. I decorated the Khorne symbol using sticky half beads that you use to decorate cards. I bought them from Hobbycraft. I did find that they needed some superglue to hold to the hardboard though. I also used a hole punch to cut out all the small circles that I could use as rivets. I cut out squares of card and glued them on as steps. The altar model in the middle is from the Reaper Bones line, which was a nice find and it works well in the middle, I didn't know quite what to put round the edges, but I ended up using cocktail sticks and some dowel which i sanded into points. I then used hot glue to hold them in place, I felt like these finished off the alter quite nicely. Painting the Altar I started off by painting the blue foam blue again! This was just to give it a good coat of something so I could spray paint the whole thing. I hadn't been happy with some of the previous Khorne stuff that I had painted, so I went with a tried and tested method. I spray painted the whole thing dark grey then light grey, then I sprayed a load of brown on the sandy bits followed by light brown. Once this dried I dry brushed the whole thing with white to detail it up. The Khorne symbol was based with Balthasar gold and then washed with purple. I used a sharpie pen to pick out the corners and lines as the terrain is so big this doesn't really matter about the quality of the highlights too much. The spikes were painted black and then gloss coated. I did consider that they should have some skulls stuck on them, and I might go back and do this later. The blood was interesting to do. I used Mephiston red and then stippled on some purples and oranges and whites. I made sure that the bubbles were gloss coated too. Then I had to do the resin. I mixed some blood for the blood god into the resin which totally didn't work - I should have used Caroburg Crimson instead. However the pour went well and i waited a few hours and then swirled in the blood for the blood god which worked much better. Building the Realm Gate The realm gate required quite a bit of chopping and cutting. I removed all of the swirly bits, and then had to chop up the gap in between the two halves to make space for some polypropylene sheet. Once this was glued in place ai assembled the realm gate as normal and then glued a few of the swirly bits back onto the bottom. I then had to assemble the Bull Demon (restic - yuck!) before slicing it up on the bandsaw. I then used super glue to glue it onto the polypro sheet. Painting the Realm Gate Again this was done with spray paints. I used the greys and browns first to do all the stone and the minotaur. I then blasted it with Mephiston Red to pick out the top parts of the demon. This also oversprayed the stone with some red glow which looked effective. Once all this was done I swirled on some purple ink and then glossed the realm gate before quickly painting the Demon. Because its a terrain piece I didn't spend a whole heap of time. It was just quick base coats, a wash and a n extreme highlight on the reds and golds. Overall Finished Piece In the end I am happy with how this has come out - its a nice playable piece of scenery that you can run figures over the top of. Combine this with some rules for sacrificing and becoming crazy fighters I think this should work well. Next up for this table will be the Fortress...
  13. I enjoyed the warhammmer weekly show. There were some fun insights especially as I don't play stormcast at all so it's nice to get some thoughts on particular units.
  14. I think it needs an oasis and a few palm trees to finish it off though. Looks a bit bare still for AoS, but I'll see what I have left time wise.
  15. Table 1: The Endless DesertsThe first job I set myself was making some themed terrain for the project. I wanted a bunch of small scatter terrain pieces, so I had a quick root around in the bitz box cupboard to see what I could find. I came up with half an Arcane Ruins kit that the wife had bought me and a bunch of Battlefield terrain resin crystals. These, I decided, would do nicelyI glued all the bits of arcane ruins together so I had a selection of pillars and columns and then I went to work with a hack saw cutting them into fallen chunks. Some 3mm MDF soon followed fo the bases. I cut these on the bandsaw and rounded off all the edges with sandpaper. I have to admit now that my inspiration came from the White Dwarf that featured the Tomb King release. They had a really good article all about building Tomb King terrain, so I nicked a lot of ideas from that. Once I had cut up a lot of the terrain I glued it all down using a two part epoxy resin, and I glued the crystals to the bases as well with the same glue. I then started covering the base with wood filler to build up the ‘sand.’ Once dry this all got a good coating of PVA and was covered in different grades of grit and sand. Again, I left it to dry, then gave it the obligatory PVA and water mix all over the top to seal it all. The pieces all got sprayed black. The paint scheme was very simple. All the terrain was painted Chardanon Granite, dry-brushed grey, then given a light Bleached Bone dry-brush. The sand was done Calthan Brown, Vomit Brown, then a 50/50 Vomit Brown and white mix. Any detailing was done in Hawk Turquise, with the gold detailing picked out in Shining Gold. This was then washed with Agrax Earthshade. The crystals started out with Catachan Green and were highlighted up to Goblin Green then gloss varnished. All in all the painting took about an hour or so. That’s the one thing I love about Terrain – it’s very quick to do compared with miniature paintingOnce these were done I took a quick trip to Pets at Home – supplier of fine miniature wargames terrain, and picked up an Egyptian statue of a cat and a sphinx. These would look very nice in my terrain collection, so I painted them up in the same scheme and based them. Boom! Jobs a good’n!Here are some shots of the finished pieces. \\\ The lava pits were made from the old (and now annoyingly out of production) 40K craters set which I filled with filler and smoothed down. The bubbles are made from sticky half beads that you can get from Hobby Craft and the whole thing was painted red, orange and yellow and then gloss varnished. The big temple was made from blue foam just cut into squares and glued together with PVA and then just dry brushed. I used the laser cutter to make the hieroglyphics and the egyptian head was from aquarium terrain. The pillars were just cake pillars from M&S that I had to order. Here you can see the final table laid out and ready to be played on