tea_wild_owl

you roll a number of dice equal to the number of models, and for each roll of 6 a model is slain. it does not specify the roll to a model, so as usual you can remove as normal (by unit owner's choice)

I played this exact list this weekend against a 2k Ogres list. it was very fun to play (even with spontaneous outrageous comments from my opponent how ridiculously overpowered new armies are, but he always complains and it is not meant in a negative way 😀). we played knives to the heart (1 objective each player, whoever's is holding both from round 3 onwards wins). the Ogor player had lots of ogors and iron guts, 6 of the leadbelchers, a scrap launcher, a iron blaster, a butcher and the tyrant, and 3 yheetis (who did nothing except dying against the riders^^) in the first round (he started) he killed only a few guards (his leadbelchers were -1 to hit from my nexus), so everything was healed back. I just moved a bit forward, trying to let him charge to keep my guards in range for my harvester healing). in the second round, he got some lucky shots and killed my first harvester with his shooting (the iron blaster dealing 6dmg on his d6 weapon), so the first blob of guards died in the first wave of iron guts due to not being able to resurrect (they dealt 3mw on explosions). I then moved up to him, getting a double turn and locking his iron guts with the 2nd block of 20 hoards, now with harvester support. the ironguts killed 21 skeletons (8 popping back due to the harvester) who exploded to 6mw. did not do so many wounds, but survived for a while. he then got lucky on a charge with his normal ogors, and 2 (!) of them were able to kill my 2nd harvester with lucky rolls. had then a lucky moment with Arkhan rolling 24mw with his curse against his iron gut unit (the last one survived with 1wound due to rolling a 1), however it was just a uphill battle from this point for me, being tabled in round 5. it was very fun, ogors being a good counter for the OBR, dealing mw on a charge and having tons of wounds. I watched through the game how it would have been with petrifex, then my harvester would have survived much longer and it would have been played out differently. however, the army feels vulnerable against ranged weapons and mw, so a skilled and adaptable opponent won't have to much issues against them.

so I skipped leg day and made the throne a flying one

and here is my first converted centaur cavalry rider (after to my Arch-Kavalos Zandtauros). two arms also saves me from deciding whether to go sword or spear

I started with converting my cavalry: meet Arch-Kavalos Zandtauros

I used the contrast primer grey seer

bones are contrast basilicanum grey, black is contrast black templar, gold is liberator gold and the red is bold for the blood God (I play it as hardened blood stone gems), then wash with nuln oil. very easy and fast for the guard units

first model finished, petrifex elite colours (which I will use as crematorian, too)

note that the soul bound protectors rule is a must, you cannot deliberately choose to allocate it or not, you have to roll. however, it still makes Arkham way more durable for sure and I will try it out

to be fair, OBR are not the first army that can kill specific models, and if you know that they can do this, just adapt an set unit coherence in a way to mitigate the loss of one or two models. and small characters can be hidden behind terrain. and don't forget look out sir for -to hit and other artifacts you may can use. After the first time I used reikenor for killing half a unit, my opponents never did the mistake again. don't only play your army but adapt to the opponent and set up multiple banner/totems/musicians per unit to mitigate there losses, too. the only unique model may be a leader of the unit, but they are not that powerful most of the time

Small Magnetizing Guide Regarding the discussion whether to go spears or swords on the Mortek Guard, I decided to go both for a few via magnetizing. The models are very good and easy to do so with 2x1mm magnets. Drill a 2mm hole into the body and cut of the extrusion on the arms to glue the magnets on. The shoulder pads cover the magnets very well, so you won't see them. I'll use 2x20 with glued swords and 40 with magnetized weapons option which should be enough to play smaller or one bigger block. I magnetized the towers for the Nexus, too. For the smaller towers I used 5x2mm magnets, they fit almost perfectly in the gap at the bottom (either cut a bit of the bottom or fill gaps with green stuff). You can glue the decorations onto the bases for the mall tower, just don't glue them to the small towers themself for them to be detachable For the big centre tower I used cylindrical magnets since they are easier to glue lengthwise. The statue stand very good on it's own, but I added them for some extra support. Glue the counterparts to the inner side of the nexus.

Sadly, I don't have one. But I can measure it later, but the nexus it's a square with squares at the edges (that cannot be removed)

just read the rest of my post, even if it's quite long your picture is basically a house rule, as per official matched play core rules terrain is set by the players. so this will need to be addressed by a TO, which is bot done yet the main issue is that for maximum efficiency the nexus should be somewhere in the centre of the battlefield (except when there is an objective), so it would be a hindrance if there is pre placed terrain (which shouldn't be there yet as by core rule sequence)

the order for preparing for battle as for all latest rules: 1) place objectives 2) place ossiarch terrain (new sequence here) 3) place normal terrain (see core rules, each players positions a number of big and small terrain pieces) 4) place faction terrain that is set after setting up terrain, but before choosing sides (nurgle trees) 5) roll of and choose sides 6) place faction terrain that is set after Rollins for sides, in your territory (e.g. moonshrine, wyldwoods) proof for 2) the set up rules states: "when terrain is set up for battle, before any other terrain is set (so step 3) the nexus must be placed". furthermore it then states: "set up the rest of the terrain features as described in the core rules". the last sentence "if both players can place terrain before any other terrain feature, roll off" is just for OBR mirror matches, since there is no other terrain yet. positioning the normal terrain was introduced with latest core rules. unfortunately, it is normally not used (especially on tournaments where this would take more time) due to time limits or having preset terrain. However, it it a crucial strategic part (as you could place realm gates for tzeentch or sigmarite mausoleum for LoN) or at least offer some zone of protection (selecting more line of sight blocker or less line of sight blocker). note that the normal terrain set up is before choosing sides, so you either have to gamble for your terrain or even it out on the field. additionally, the new normal terrain rules do not allow placement on objectives (if they are already on the field), which is good because the objective will be in the open field and not bunkered in a terrain feature offering cover saves so for the new ossiarch terrain, if the normal terrain is preset on the table, the OBR player should be allowed to place it anywhere and shift the already placed normal terrain. but in the end it's up to the TO NOTE: since the tome is not officially out yet, and this wasn't mentioned in reviews yet (I suppose it was just skipped due to people thinking it is similar to other faction terrain) there are no official TO statements yet, so it will take some time to be noticed and addressed by official rules, you can always play it. any preset terrain tables are basically house rules (skipping the terrain placement phase), so it would need am additional house rule for OBR terrain (like replacing/moving replaced terrain)

no, as I said (I have the rulebook here), it is "when terrain ist set up, the nexus must be set up before any other terrain, 3" from objectives and 6" from battlefield edge". then you do the normal terrain set up (big and small per player). so you can always place it anywhere on the field, preferably somewhere in the centre because it is before choosing sides.