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Mirage8112

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Mirage8112 last won the day on September 16

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About Mirage8112

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  1. Lmao. It totally does. Especially when there's only one mini in the shot. When all the dryads are grouped up it mitigates that a bit thank goodness. Originally, I painted all the leaves pink, but it was too much. Generally I try to go with a ratio of 2 pinks for every 3 greens (give or take). I use the centrifuge on the Treelords. I just strap the mini down, turn on the spinner, pour the paint in and presto!
  2. I know, I know. No posts for weeks and weeks and an AVALANCHE OF POSTS. Suck it up buttercup. I got pictures to show. So, in line with my post the other day, I'm showing a full stage-by-stage progression to show how these dryads are painted; complete with colors, brush sizes and alternate application techniques. I've been told that my "style" of painting is unique, but I'm not entirely sure what that means. I do tend to do quite a bit of wet blending, only because it's predominately how you use oil paint. I also rarely thin my paints (only when doing fine highlighting or transitional layers) I've experimented a bit with layering and edge highlighting upon occasion, but I'm still getting used to it. So here you are. Enjoy! Step 1: The Dryads arms/head are glued to the body, but the rear headpiece and back branch is not. it makes it a little easier to get in an get the leaves and fine highlights, but you could very well skip that step and glue everything together. The entire model is them primed grey, and then basecoated in Rakarth Flesh with an airbrush*. Step 2: Drayd bark is then applied via the airbrush to the hands, feet, and branch tips. Have the back pieces removable helps with this as it's nearly impossible to hit just the tips on the face without hitting the backpiece with the airbrush. Step 3: the entire model is washed with a heavy application of Carroburg Crimson and allowed to dry. Step 4: Rakarth Flesh is again applied with the airbrush, leaving only a small reddish transition section between the Dryad bark and Rakarth Step 5: Then, a second highlight of Flayed one flesh is applied with the airbrush, only hitting the face and chest area. Step 6: The airbrush section is finished, and now we switch to a Medium Artificer brush (Unless noted from this point on all the work is done with Artificer). The tabard is painted with Bugman's Glow, and the very very tips of all the Branches, fingers and feet are painted with Abbadon Black Step 7: The tabard is highlighted with Pink Horror from the bottom up, and at waist level from the top down: Step 8: The tabard is again washed with Carroburg Crimson, as are eye sockets and mouth (carefully, with a small artificer) Step 9: The tabard receives final highlight of Emperor's Children Step 10: The eyes are carefully painted with Gauss Blaster green using a Small Artificer Brush Step 11. At this point, the steps might be a little hard to see, but if you look closely, I've begun highlighting the body, arms and face and back headpiece with a 50/50 mix of Rakarth Flesh and Palid Wtych Flesh. The back head piece also get a very very small amount of Carroburg Crimson washing into the recesses to help separate the branches. After this, the back headpiece is glued in place. Step 12: A final application of pure Palid Wytch flesh goes on the eyebrows, cheekbones, shoulders, the raised areas on the chest and knees, and on the back branch. After, the back branch is glued in place. Step 13: The hands are highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Dryad Bark and Bugman's Glow Step 13: the hands get a final highlight of Bugmans's, Dryad Bark, and Rakarthflesh (mixed together in equal amounts) Step 14: The green and pink leaves are painted Skarsnik Green and Pink Horror respectively Step 15: The pink leaves are edge highlighted with Emperors Children Step 16: The pink leaves get a final highlight of Fulgrim Pink on the very end tips. Step 17: The head tattoos get a fine application of Fulgrim Pink with a Small Artificer Brush. Step 18: Using a small artificer Brush, florescent pink is carefully applied to the tattoo in a 50/50 ratio of paint to water. This can vary, depending on how strong I want that particular tattoo to read. Florescent green is also very carefully and very thinly applied to the eyes with a Small Artificer Brush (this paint is not thinned with water, just a small amount applied very carefully and spread till it is very thin). The body also get a few choice crevices washed with Carroburg Crimson thinned 50/50 with water. And that's it! Only 18 steps! Alternations and addendums: Now, to be fair these steps could be greatly condensed. There are several places where I've chosen to add an additional mid-level highlight when it would be perfectly acceptable to just do a single. For example, the tabard has a highlight of pink horror before the wash it applied, but I could have just as easily painted the tabard, washed it, and then highlighted it with Emperors Children. The same goes with the intermediate 50/50 highlight of Rakarth and Wytch flesh before going with pure Wytch. I've also marked the first mention of doing by basecoat with an asterisk* because and airbrush is not totally necessary. It helps create clean easy fades, but it can be done just as easily with a 50/50 mix of Dryads bark and Lahamian Medium for step 2, and steps 4 & 5 can be replicated almost as well by drybrushing. While writing this, I got a bit into color theory and why I've chosen to build these scheme this way. Thinking better of it, I've deleted it and I'll post it separately later this week. Anyway, I hope somebody out there finds this useful. Good luck and Happy painting! -F
  3. Salutations! So, I've had a lot of comments on my basing scheme for my Sylvaneth Army on Facebook, Instagram and this PLOG as well. The process for actually doing the basing is simple and straightforward forward, but acquiring and preparing the materials can be a little bit tricky. The leaves in this picture: Are actually separators from the seed pods of birch tree. A number of years ago, you could buy these from Secret weapon miniatures and a few other outlets, but for whatever reason they are no longer sold anywhere. It's actually rather fortunate that I had one of these tress in my yard as a kid, so I recognized what they were the moment I saw them and knew I have several in the neighborhood close to my house. Why spend $15 on something you can make yourself? The answer? because it's a huge colossal pain in the ass. So, over much trial and error (mostly error) I've come up with a reasonably not terribly difficult way to get the materials for free. The whole process takes about 30 minutes and depending how much starting material you have can yield a large amount of quality basing materials. And it's free! Firstly, you'll need to find a tree like this: This is a Birch tree. They are thin-trunked with white bark and black markings, heavily leafed, and tend to yield seeds most of the year (except for winter) now is actually an excellent time to collect seeds since the pods will start drying out now, meaning you can skip the drying step. Collect as many as you can, preferably a gallon, since in the cleaning stage you'll lose approximately 3/4 of the volume. The seeds of the tree look like this: You can see that this pod is still green, but is already starting to crumble. The dryer the pod, the more brown it becomes. Birch seed pods are made up of 3 parts, the stem (obvs.) the separators and the seeds. It's actually the separators we're after and they look like this: Like tiny little Maple leaves. The main problem is that the seed pods are almost all seeds. Nearly 3/4 so. I sued to separate them out by hand (kill me now) because I didn't really have any other option. Over time, I noticed that if I breathed too heavily on them, the seeds would go flying but the spacers stayed put (relatively). This gave me an idea; I could sue the seeds natural tendency to catch the wind and fly away to separate the seeds from the spacers. Firstly, you will need a box, roughly 9" x 14" and about 2" deep. I believe I used the lid from the citadel woods box since I happened to have a crapton hanging around not doing anything. So, first, you just crumble seeds between your fingers until you have about 1 1/2-2 cups, and then dump them into the lid like so: Then you'll need to set up a wind source (unless your lung power is super awesome) to blow a continuous stream of air over the top of the box. You could use a box or rotary fan, I ended up using a shop-vac with the intake-outflow hose reversed to turn it into a giant leaf blower. You need to be careful that the airflow isn't too high, or you'll fine that you've just blown everything all to hell and need to go collect more seeds. I've found for my particular shop vac, I needed a distance of something like 15 feet: I also needed to put a rock into the box to keep the box from blowing away or flipping over, because if it does? You'll need to go get more seeds. When you turn the air on, the pressure creates a sort of drag wind that actually blows the seeds back toward the leading edge of the box. when they move, the lighter seeds catch the wind and fly out of the box, and the seed spacers stay in the box. He's a video demonstrating what it should look like. the wind is blowing from the top of the frame toward the bottom. You can see the spacers moving in opposite direction: After a few turns of the box, the seeds should be mostly separated leaving behind only the spacers. You will lose a few spacers in the process but only a very few. I should also mention that you'll have seeds all over the floor behind the box, so be prepared for a little clean up. After that's finished, uou can see the reduction in size; with the pile going from this: To this: Now that the seeds are mostly separated, you'll need to sift them in order to separate the seeds that have lost their "wings" (they are black spots in the periphery of the pile). To do this I just use a common flour sifter (one of the cheap metal ones with a crank handle). After a few cranks, this is what falls out: Seeds, wings, small stems and few twigs. At this point, the separation is complete and for every 2 cups of raw material you started with, you'll yield approximately 1/2 a cup of seeds. It might not sound like much, but a little will go a long way; 1/2 a cup of seeds will probably cover all 30 dryads, the Treelord Ancient, Drycha and a Wyldwood. At this point I'll usually take 3 tablespoons or so and color them to use as accent leaves. I'll cover doing that and actually basing with them as soon as the dryads are finished. Maybe in a week or so. I hope everyone finds this helpful. Happy painting.. er... basing! -F
  4. I've been oil painting now from somewhere around 15 years (give or take). I suppose I've been painting longer than that, but I'm counting that 15 years from the time I first received any substantial instruction on technique and application of paint. Prior to that, I picked up most of my technique on drawing and painting from books and articles. I read pretty voraciously, and having step by step guides on how artists made painting was pretty instrumental on getting me on my way to being a competent painter. Nowadays, some 15 years on, I mostly don't need the step-by-step pictures anymore. I can read a finished painting like a book. I tell almost at a glance what colors are used, how the paint was applied, what mediums were mixed in and have a reasonable guess at how much prep work was done before the artist actually began painting. I can also tell (in most cases) if the artist was left or right handed. I've been painting miniatures now for nearly 10 years and it's more or less the same. I look at a mini and I can tell, pretty closely how the artist got to the end point. Because of this, I often forget to post the step-by-step progress photos because I don't have quite as much need for them. But at the same time, I also hope that this PLOG might be useful to somebody who might not have quite as much painting experience. As fun as it is marvel at a well painted miniature, and as much as it might stroke my ego being told how good they look. That's all just for my vanity, and doesn't really help anybody else. So, I am currently in the process of painting another 16 dryads and I'm taking step step photos of each stage. I'll be posting them in a day or two as soon as I have everything squared away. In the meantime I've prepared a post on... uh.. preparing... basing materials for the 30 dryads, Drycha and TLA that I'll be basing as soon as all the dryads are finished. Happy painting! -F
  5. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    Nope, It's just one edge of one citadel wood that is required to be within 18". The other 1-2 can be outside of 18". Only the TLA's "silent communion" ability requires that each "citadel wood" be within 15".
  6. Sprouting Roots - Learning the Wargroves

    Great reports! I love reading these, especially with people who are new(wish) to them faction. Quick question: Did you have him reroll the dice? Or use 2 and take the highest if within 8" of a haunted piece of scenery? The Spites ability forces battleshock tests to be taken on 2 dice and then your opponent must take whichever of the two is higher. It's especially handy vs demon armies, but absolutely brutal vs low leadership armies. Keep up the good work! -F
  7. SC or Sylvaneth, if you had to choose.

    The clearest distinction between the armies IMO is Stormcast are more forgiving to play, they have resilient troops with multiple wounds and decent armor saves. They also hit reasonably hard, are relatively fast and do not take large amount of models to build an effective force. Sylvaneth take a bit more finesse, and have a play style unlike any of the other armies. They are an army of specialists with very specific strengths. Use a unit in the wrong place, or at the wrong time and you'll get wiped off the board. Use the right unit in the right place at the right time and you can win match-ups that you shouldn't be winning.
  8. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    The bat rep I posted a few pages back was played on a variation of Starstrike (from the open war cards). It was a close game, and had the objective fallen differently I wouldn't have won (but that was mostly because of a mistake in my own deployment). I suppose it depends on how aggressive your opponent is, we both ended up holding back about 1/2 our forces so we'd have a chance to capture the objective when it showed up. I still lost the hunters, nearly all the dryads, and 2 units of spites.
  9. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    I actually considered both those options. I opted for the Luminark because of the save vs mortal wounds and the extra 10" range. I also opted for the additional 20 dryads and wraith over Hunters because it allowed me to squeeze an extra hero in, making the list a little more competitive in the duality of death scenario. The list I posted is by no means a final draft. If it's a one off game vs a Changehost list I think either of those three variations would work. I opted to post the luminark version as it seemed a better all round choice.
  10. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    @scrubyandwells I've put the call out on social media for a play tester for the change host list we talked about a few pages back. It might be a little while before I can find somebody with the models and enough expertise to give a reasonable game, but in the meantime I've sat down and worked through some variations and possibilities for dealing with a list like this. I'd be interested in @Nico and @swarmofseals's input on the playability as well as second check on my math for what my conclusions are. Before I give my thoughts, I think it's probably best if I make just a few points regarding my thought process before I make my proposal and solicit input: I strongly believe that every list you can write has a hard counter, and Changehost is no exception. There is most certainly a hard counter for some of our strongest lists (as we've seen), and as points get adjusted and new armies hit the field things will inevitably shift. As we've seen Gnarlroot is no longer the go-to list for competitive play in 2017 as a number of counters have emerged and points have make that particular build a little more precarious. It's also worth noting that competitive list writing for tournaments is far different than competitive list writing for a one-off game. Tournament lists vary widely depending on specialized restrictions, sideboards, alternate lists and of course the "meta". One-off games allow a more specific build and often allow you to make lists that you wouldn't dare bringing to a tournament; often time they are quirky and fun to play with/against and allow you to take combinations that you wouldn't normally see. Tournament lists on the other hand can be the other side of the coin, boring and dry exercise in mathhammer that are little fun to play with/against. That being said, when I look at what the Dreadwood list I offered up earlier is an example of a tournament list. It's designed to completive across a variety of factions and has a relatively good chance of being able to win any of the scenarios from GHB. Granted, some match-ups will be easier/more difficult than others and some scenarios will present more of a challenge than others. It's a lot like the adage "you can please most of the people some off the time, and all of the people some of the time, but you can't please everybody all of the time." Going over the math for Changehost it's pretty clear any of our normal builds have no chance. It takes a lot for me to say this, so don't think I'm just being negative. The math simply isn't on our side. Providing the change host gets off all their damage spells (they will) and providing they can get most everything in range (they can) assuming average rolls, the list is capable up putting out ~27 mortal wounds per turn. That enough to burn through any list we can put together that has less than 100 wounds; and that's just magic. It makes no account for close combat or shooting (of which it doesn't have a lot, but it does have some). Dreadwood is a unique case insofar as it has the ability to completely negate 1 turn of magic, and possibly still be able to snag an objective. However the problem with dreadwood lies in the fact that Kairos is on the table. Even considering a bad deployment on the part of your opponent that allows the opportunity for an alpha strike, you still have to charge with the hunters. Roll a 1 on either of the 2d6 Kairos changes it to a double 1 and you fail the charge. The chances of rolling a one on either of 2 d6's is about ~30%. That means one out of every 3 times will fail. Because of this, I would suggest that alpha-strike with dreadwood shouldn't be used in this case. But to make matters worse, the stratagems depend on a roll at the beginning of the game. Roll 3 stratagems Kairos should be able to change that to a 1. Then you have an uphill battle. You can redeploy a unit to capture objectives and go first. But you will likely get blasted with magic next turn since you cannot limit range. You could reduce all abilities to 12", but you can't get any get units up the field or in position easily (especially in scenarios like Battle for the Pass, Starstrike, or Scorched Earth were the deployment zones have no buffer between deployment zones). In short the Changehost player has the ability to dictate how he want you to play the battle. Never a good thing for Sylvaneth. So here, is what I propose as a solution: Reach across the table and punch the Changehost player right in the mouth for brings such a filthy list I'm just kidding... sort of. Here is the basic list and my reasoning behind it: Allegiance: OrderBranchwraith (80)- General- Trait: Wisdom of the Ancients - Artefact: Acorn of the Ages - Deepwood Spell: Verdant BlessingBranchwraith (80)- Artefact: Warsong Stave - Deepwood Spell: Throne of VinesLuminark Of Hysh With White Battlemage (240)30 x Dryads (270)30 x Dryads (270)30 x Dryads (270)30 x Dryads (270)20 x Dryads (200)Forest Folk (110)Winterleaf Wargrove (160)Reinforcement Points (0)Total: 1990 / 2000Allies: 0 / 400 As I mentioned above, the Changehost can expect to put out ~27 wounds per hero phase. But that's making a few assumptions: 1. That the Lord of Change is at full health 2. That the Gaunt summoner has 30 dryads within range for infernal flames. 3. That nothing is unbound 4. That everything is in range 5. Average rolls for damage 5 is easy to assume, since the more times you have to roll for damage, the less swingy the total damage output will be. As to 1-4, its unlikely that all 4 conditions will be met for every single hero phase. So it's not unreasonable to suggest that the actual damage output would be a little bit lower- say instead of ~27 it will be more like 20. Still a lot. Multiplied over available game turns (5) that's ~100 mortal wounds over the course of the game. Granted the first turn will probably be far less since it makes sense to deploy at least 18" away from the spell casters. Dropping first and giving him first turn, or taking first turn but staying out of range, means he'll likely only get 1-2 spells off (say 4 mortal wounds) which drops the total spell output to ~84 over the course of the game. Then there is the Luminark's 6+ save vs mortal wounds with a 10" radius which will drop that another 6-8 over the course of the game, dropping total wound output to something in the high 70's. The only way to mitigate mortal wound damage for us is bodies. Bodies, bodies, bodies. This list sports 140 dryads spread out over 5 units. Combined with chain deployment to keep whatever you can within 10" of the general means each unit (roughly) can lose up to 10 models and still test on bravery 9, and will likely still be able to use inspiring presence on the unit likely to take the most causalities. Even taking the full brunt of spell, he'll be forced to eventually engage in CC, since he won't be able to clear the dryads off objectives through magic alone. Here the dryad's exploding attacks and extra wounding vs chaos units will be handy. Also, that many dryads is more than enough to prevent anything getting within 18" of the Luminark (preventing spell sniping), and since the Luminark's range is 30" and 6 damage it should be more than able to threaten whatever is beyond it. If you set up with a "radial deployment" (i.e. units of dryads moving out like spokes on a wheel out from the Luminark at the center) you should be reasonably able to prevent any shooting/magic from reaching the big gun and limit spaces available to summon more units. If the enemy decides to try and use a balewind vortex to reach the Lumiark; that's not terrible either: any turn the enemy wastes magically sniping characters are turn he's not clearing dryads. Really, the Luminark is there to do one thing: to wound the Lord of Change. The more wounds he takes, the less damage he's capable of producing. Kairos would be the second target, since he can cast infernal gateway as well. Winterleaf also has the ability from forest folk to remove the branchwraith and the 4 big units of dryads from the field and put them basically wherever you want (within your half of the board, or within 3" of a wyldwood more than 9" from the enemy) . This allows you to adapt to whatever deployment the Changehost player makes (albeit with a 9" restriction). Since you'll also be chaining to wyldwoods anyway, you have the acorn drop + verdant blessing to give you more options outside your own territory. In short, the plan will be to capture as many objectives as possible and force him to spread out, effectively preventing him from focusing any one thing down at a time. the fade from view ability will also allow you to possibly reveal the changeling and still position everything else optimally. When you consider that the only way to win scenarios is through objectives, you only have to control more objectives than him for 3 turns, and then control an equal amount of objectives for 1-2. With this many bodies, its reasonable to think that the changehost list will have trouble even getting close enough to control an objective until at least turn 3. The spells and command traits are chosen specifically because of spell theft. The only one that's iffy is the wraith with the staff and vines. I considered putting regrowth on him to keep the luminary at full health but I'm a little concerned that bad positioning will mean the blue scribes steal regrowth. A LoC with self-healing ability would be bad. Besides, Throne of vines will help with the odd unbind, and since the plan is to get as many forests on the board as possible; the more mortal wounds a forest can deal the better. Now after running the numbers, I actually think with the resources at our disposal, this list has the best chance against the Changehost. Would it compete in a tournament? I'm not sure off hand. I think it has potential thanks to the sheer mobility/crush of bodies it possesses. It can handle a high-mortal wound output army at range (obviously). Lots of -1 to hit/forests makes it can probably handle CC armies as well. Gun lines? Yes probably. It would eat a turn of shooting easily and then be able to pull off a second turn charge. It has some horde clearing ability from the Luminark as well. Is it a list you'd like to play? I dunno. That's aloootttt of dryads to paint. It's also pretty much the antithesis of the army @scrubyandwells describes as ideal "low model count, elite army with plenty of magic/shooting"... Sorry for the long post, but I welcome all your thoughts and theory crafting to overcome what I'm calling the "big bird challenge". -F
  11. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    Most definitely. I'd be shocked if they ruled otherwise in a FAQ. True I've been surprised before, but that just wouldn't make any sense. The original version of the list was written back in GHB2016, before spites were battleline. In that version of the list, there simply wasn't any room for dryads or anything substantial enough to hold objectives. The GHB scenarios also weren't quite as diverse, so the alpha strike plan fit pretty well with the battleplan requirements. But in GHB2017, spites became battleline, which really opened up the unit combinations you could field and gave the list more flexibility. In the original version, you alpha-struck or you were left standing there, holding your @#%^ in your hand, hoping your opponent gave you an opening you could exploit. Now, it's possible to build an effective list that doesn't depend so heavily on getting first turn. It does take a while to get used to playing a list like this, because it runs contrary to how Gnarlroot plays. Dreadwood is a very aggressive build, (especially if your using the alpha strike stratagem.) The other reason it is a little more unnerving to play, is that you should probably expect to lose 1/3 up to 1/2 you list over the course of the battle. In the version I'm play testing, I'd expect to lose Drycha, the Hunters, a unit (or two) of spites and maybe 1/2 the dryads. The reason it works, is that it will take your enemy 3-4 turns to finish clearing those units, which means they only really have 1-2 to capture objectives at best. It really takes some getting used to, especially when the mindset of playing an elite army revolves around losing as few units as possible. Not to rules lawyer, but the text says, "In your hero phase, you can pick either an enemy unit or terrain feature, and then move each unit from the free spirits as though it were the movement phase." I was under the impression that because it says "you can pick..., and then move." One could argue that "can" extends through both part of the sentence i.e. "you can pick, and then you [can] move." Meaning moving is optional. I don't see anything about it in the FAQ, but when something is mandatory, they usually add "must". I.e. "you can pick... and then [you must] move." Aside from that, I do agree that there are probably better battalions to use in competitive matched play no matter the interpretation. Granted you could use it to get out of combat and then move farther away in your actual movement phase, (since they've ruled moves in other passes still count as retreats) it seems only situational useful to me. I agree with you @Lhw, but @Cerve seems pretty set on packing them hunters in. Maybe his meta is just a peculiar one where this type of list works well. I'd be terrified to use it in a tournament myself unless I just planned to swim around the bottom tables all day, for the simply reason it doesn't look like it can compete in scorched earth, duality of death or tool conquest. There's juts not enough heroes or bodies. There's no woods to bunker on and no chance at unbinding spells. It does one thing very well (CC) but with a tiny model.unit count it can't really mitigate mortal wounds from target saturation either. It's got some big eggs, but there all in one tiny basket.
  12. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    This is basically my thought as well. Most events allow some kind of sideboard/ list variation (it depends on the event) and I wasn't sure what to do with it, but a list like the above might be a good candidate for such a sideboard. The Changehost list looks like what I mentioned before; a list geared toward focusing down elite model lists, or lists that invest heavily in characters. Dropping Drycha allows you to add another 30 dryads, and swapping the scythes for bows gives you decent range. That's ~90 models and 132 wounds. A Changehost list has little CC to speak of (mostly magic and some shooting) and that's a lot of bodies to clear. Especially when you consider they're losing an entire turn due due to range limitations.
  13. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    While I (largely) agree that you'll probably be going second, you are assuming your opponent knows the alpha is coming, (which is not a given at all). *** edit. I've gone back and looked at the list again, and realized that the blue's and brims were fielded in addition to the pinks. I had assumed they were there as a split. That actually makes more sense as to why the list is so difficult to deal with. I'm going to take another look at the lists make-up and get back to you guys.
  14. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    That would be the plan if you are going to forgo the alpha-strike. But also, you're forgetting we're assuming 2 stratagems. 12" range cap already prevents swapping since it limits ALL abilities to 12". Plus you get a free move before the game starts for 3 dreawood units. should be more than enough to get a hero in range of the changeling or get a unit to surround it and then bring the hero in (Especially with Drycha and her 7" move and huge base).
  15. Let's Chat Sylvaneth

    lol. Looks like fun. I'll have to see if I know somebody who can field this list. It's full of big models so it might be kind of tough, but I'll see what I can do.
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