Brad Gamma

Long time no post! A lot of stuff has happened with this army, but I did end up submitting it as my entry for armies on parade this year. Here is a selection of photos that I took!

Finished a squad of Judicators! Persidus the Hunter and his Judicator Retinue "Rain of Vengeance"

Of course! My method uses an airbrush, so i'll list how I do it, and then how I would do it without an airbrush. For reference, each model here took about 5-7 hours depending on how many extra bits there were. The exception to this is Severin Steelheart, who I spent about 20-25 hours on because I was using it as a portfolio piece. With Airbrush Prime everything in mid-grey (I use badger grey primer through my airbrush). Airbrush Incubi Darkness over the whole model. Do a light zenithal with Sotek Green. The total amount you use here sets the brightness for the model, I've varied a bit inconsistantly. (Optional) Glaze sotek green onto raised parts that I feel should be brighter, but the airbrush has missed. Shade recesses with coelia greenshade then a more detailed recess shade with nuln oil. Thick highlight with temple guard blue. Thin highlight with baharroth blue. Points and specular highlights with 50:50 baharoth and white scar. Without Airbrush (faster method) If I was going to do the base coat without an airbrush here is how I would do it, if I wanted to retain a little bit of speed. If you look at the first picture of the liberators, the guy in the top left is very close to this because I just sprayed him Sotek green. He looks a bit flatter than everyone else, but I don't think its that noticeable. Prime mid to light grey Basecoat Sotek Green Shade recesses with coelia greenshade then a more detailed recess shade with nuln oil. Thick highlight with temple guard blue. Thin highlight with baharroth blue. Without Airbrush (slower method) If I was going to do the base coat without an airbrush but wanted to get a close result to what I have above, I would do the following but it would take a while Prime mid to light grey Basecoat Incubi Darkness Block out some high points in sotek green Blend the two colours with glazes. Shade recesses with coelia greenshade then a more detailed recess shade with nuln oil. Thick highlight with temple guard blue. Thin highlight with baharroth blue. Points and specular highlights with 50:50 baharoth and white scar.

Thanks buddy! Probably a bit less converting on these ones though I will probably do an armies on parade board for them, depending on when that comes back round. Thanks! Good to be back.

Hey there TGA, long time no post! I have been absent from the forums for a while, because my hobby became very 40k focused, but I have recently gotten back into Age of Sigmar! Last time I was on here I was writing about my Gharuki Forest Duardin. This time I'm being slightly less adventurous and painting a largely unconverted, established army, the Celestial Vindicators. The Celestial Vindicators are known for their war chants, which they use to keep their rage in check. I plan to build a warrior chamber called the Warsong Chamber, or Warsingers, who channel their rage into epic symphonies and songs. Eventually I would like to represent this with a trio of converted Knight Heraldors. My main objective is to achieve a clean and beautiful Army in a GW style, replicating the sort of work done by the Armies and Battlefields team. As I post this I have already completed 12 models which comes to about 600pts (I have Knight Questor Larissa Shadowstalker, who doesnt have a proper points cost). Here are the models so far! Liberators - Lead by the fearless Starla Goldmane. She does not allow her men to dual wield weapons, because they get out of hand! Steelheart's Champions - As of yet unnamed Steelheart's Champions equivalent! Love these models Liberator Prime - Liberator prime Argus Ragefist, soon to be accompanied by his dual hammer wielding men. Knight Incantor - Gaia Stormheart accompanies the Warsong Chamber on their quest. Questing Knights - As of yet unnamed errant and knight questor tag along for the fun! Looking forward to expanding these guys over the coming months! I will start to take some army shots when I get to 1000pts, and some WIP shots along the way. Next up is a unit of 5 Judicators! Thanks for having a look

So I went into GW to test some some contrast paints so that I knew what to buy tomorrow (or try to buy, i'll be up early). This is the second time I have used contrast paints and I was eager to try it on some figures that I had based with a zenithal highlight. I was very pleased with the results. The above model was 2 or 3 minutes of messing around. Colors used are shyish purple, inyanden yellow guilliman flesh and black templar black Some thoughts! As expected the Zenithal worked brilliantly! As with most glazes/washes the purple worked better over a greyscale zenithal than yellow, but even the yellow looks okay, gives it a gritty dark look. I think that its misleading to tout it as a basecoat, wash and highlight all in one. For me its basecoat + wash all in one, and some easy highlights would finish it off. Don't get me wrong, that alone for some paint schemes could represent a HUGE time saving. (I realise that today's Andy Wardle article on warhammer community suggests that it can do the work of highlights though, and he is a million times better than me). I tried Volupus pink and Magos Purple first , and they dried much more transparent with a similar layer of paint. It would have required 2 or 3 layers I think. This is certainly a range where you will have to get used to each paint. When I decided to try a quartered colour scheme, I went from slopping things on to painting more accurately and you can be very accurate as long as you understand the directions things will pool. While I think you can be accurate with it, I think finishing some conjoining areas with conventional paints will allow you to be sloppier and quicker with the base coats. e.g. If I did the boots with normal black and armor with metallics, it would hide almost any sin in the previous stage. While for this model I used black templar for metal, in my eventual plans I will certainly use conventional metallics. I think with metallics and some highlighting I could do this type of model in maybe... 20 minutes? And it probably look better than if I had done it conventionally. So an early morning for me as I scramble to get into the store at opening time and hopefully pick up the 4 or 5 paints that I want.

I love this! 1000pts is my favourite point size for both AoS and 40k because: Its quite achievable for hobbysists to get painted, a 1000pt force is just a completely different psychological beast to a 2000pt army. It allows people to try out more armies, because the entry requirements are lower. Gives you that "full" warhammer experience, while being a bit quicker Works on a 4' x 4' board, and makes 6' x 4' feel like a more vast battlefield. Problem is, things are never really quite written for 1000pts, so sometimes it feels like you are missing out on the larger picture, or not quite playing the right game. Having a specific game mode at this size is fantastic for me. I'm sure it'll have some issues like skirmish does, where ultimately some of the rules are not balanced for that particular game mode (already talk about summoning), but for me and my friends this is great 😁 I love the min sized unit requirement. AoS has a few too many bonuses for large units that make me feel I need to max out everything. The combination of max unit points discounts and rules like "+1 to hit for more than 20 models" makes it feel a bit pointless to go with a smaller unit sometimes. Obviously some units have their large unit bonuses priced in, so don't know how balance it will be, but I still love this. Also as someone who collects Tyranids and Orks for 40k, I am slowly growing tired of placing 4 to 5 units of 30 to 40 mooks on the board, moving them, piling them in etc. Even with movement trays!

Just thought I would chime in here. I was at the event and heard the question and this summary isn't quite right (haven't checked out the honest wargamers show to be fair). When asked would dispossessed be getting a battletome they said: Over the next year or so, every faction will be covered by a battletome. Then just before moving on, they remembered to say that they won't necessarily match to the current faction labels, and that was a general comment about the factions, not dwarf specific. So they essentially confirmed that dispossessed will be covered by a battle tome within the next few years. That could be as part of a different faction (free cities etc.) or as a dispossessed book. This makes sense because under no circumstances would they say that dispossessed would be rolled into a larger book, they don't actually reveal that level of information in these Q&As. Despite it being fairly obvious that they don't answer questions about specific releases, half of the questions at these events are "Will we get space marine bikes?" etc. It gets quite infuriating. So they give us some vague ideas of long plans: This year (2019) there is still at least one release for each grand alliance. Over the next few years, all existing factions will be covered by a battletome. In fairness, they haven't ruled out achieving this by removing a faction, I don't think.

Hi, The sprues are visible on the GW website, and I think I can only see 10 combinations of bits which would suggest that you do need to build the grot-chomping one, but without the instruction booklet or hands on experience, its difficult to be certain.

Hi Git-Collectors Apologies if this has been asked elsewhere, it was a bit tricky to search for. In the Squig herd box set, one squig is pictured with a grot trapped in its mouth. Does the sprue contain enough pieces that you could construct the full 10 squigs without this variation? I want to use them in a non-grot based conversion. Thank you!

I love these new models! I hope they flesh them out to be their own subfaction, or use them to significantly expand the grot factions. Destruction needed something to capture the spirit of the grand alliance, breaking out of the greenskin/ogor mould without overlapping the Chaos Marauder types. I think this is perfect, a wild expression of nature itself, and probably doesn't care for your normal ethics or allegiances! Here's hoping its more than the warband

@Ben Subscribed and donated. Might go on a liking spree! Happy to contribute to this site, its a really welcoming and friendly community. I think the subscriber features look great, nice bonuses without creating a radically different experience for those who do and don't subscribe. I would echo a consideration about whether advertising could be disabled for subscribers, however if advertising is kept as hobby-related as possible then it helps the site and the industry as a whole and I'm all for it.

Thanks! I made some decisions so I could play with the board in the future, but I didn't focus on it too much. For example, the road ends before the board edge so that if I make other board pieces I don't have any issue lining up. It would be fun to do a defence scenario where the outpost is attacked, but castling up can get boring quickly. If I do ever make the other 5 pieces, i'll post them up here. Cheers I maaay give it a go. I have some ideas but I need to make sure I can get the design right and source the bits. If I did do it, it would probably be only once and most likely I would go straight for the Ironclad.

Thanks! I made some decisions so I could play with the board in the future, but I didn't focus on it too much. For example, the road ends before the board edge so that if I make other board pieces I don't have any issue lining up. It would be fun to do a defence scenario where the outpost is attacked, but castling up can get boring quickly. If I do ever make the other 5 pieces, i'll post them up here. Cheers I maaay give it a go. I have some ideas but I need to make sure I can get the design right and source the bits. If I did do it, it would probably be only once and most likely I would go straight for the Ironclad.

I did use splines. The tree was just fiddling about with poly curves until it looked a bit like a tree and then mirroring it. The knotted pattern round the edge was done by setting up some control points for a portion, doing a polar array of those points and drawing a spline between them for one wavey curve, then duplicating and rotating it slightly to get the second wavey curve. I remember it being a really tricky once I wanted to make them 3d and patch them onto the surface of a curved shield. I really like Rhino 3D. I wouldn't say I'm the most experienced with other packages, but mostly because I give up and go back to rhino. Whether that's because it's easy to use, or it was just the thing I learnt first is hard to say.