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My Ironjawz: Awright ladz, let'z git gud at paintin'


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Right, as some may have seen in other threads I am an old git that finally took the leap and ordered a box of Ironjawz Brutes a while back plus all the paints, brushes, glues and tools etc.

 

 

 

TONIGHT I finally got around to making a start and what better way to start then to glue together the Boss model.

 

This thread will be my journal, my kick up the backside and hopefully, with your help, the source of motivation, critique and feedback as I am slowly but surely starting my journey to building and painting an Ironjawz army.

 

My fine motor skills and general arts and craft abilities rival those of a 4 year old so please bear with me, I have never done this before! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

 

'Ere we go, ladz!!!26221194b23f044e7b3ef93e9ad81f1f.jpg155506704ffd6b9d0eb46a3a2b99e5c0.jpgfbb6ae727d788954c631c638aa32a59d.jpg04b4715b2cd8cdd154cac3a25e937568.jpg

 

It is getting too dark now to continue so I will scrape the plastic glue of my fingers now!

 

 

 

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Welcome back to Warhammer @Chillpill!

You've made a great choice picking up Ironjawz. The models are absolutely fantastic, some of the best GW has ever made IMO. That Brute kit is phenomenal, I've assembled 7 boxes of them now and haven't got bored (and traditionally I don't like assembly!).

Look forward to seeing what you do with them.

Have fun.

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I love Ironjawz - the Brutes especially were my favourite to build and paint, so you're in for a treat.

One thing that helped me: I don't usually paint with sub-assemblies, but I left off the Brutes' chestplates until I had painted the skin beneath (where possible - sometimes the Brute was holding a weapon across his chest and was less hassle to glue it on and work around it).

Without the chestplate, it made it a lot easier to get at the face and paint the bare flesh of the chest (which is still kind of visible when the chestplate goes on).

(I had mine on the table just last night against a Disciples of Tzeentch force. The Brutes were definitely MVP - romping through a Mutalith Vortex Beast, Pink Horrors, Kairic Acolytes,  Marauder Horsemen and Ogroid Thaumaturge. The Mutalith took 13 wounds in a single round - they do like to Duff Up da Big Thing!)

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Good luck!

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1 hour ago, Chillpill said:

@Stylus I was actually considering that for a very long time and now that the model is assembled I already regret that I did not do it because I can see how much of a pain it will be to paint around the armor now!

I assembled all mine first and then painted them, they came out alright! They are indeed some seriously hard hitters, especially if in range of a Megaboss, fighting something large, and buffed by a Warchanter. Throw in a Waaagh! on top of that, and you're looking at absolute carnage.

20170529_142258.jpg

Picture taken mid-game, so not the greatest detail view!

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Ladz here is an update. I basecoated with white spray... think i might have been too close to the model it looked a bit too thick. Then i applied a base of waagh flesh, then a layer of warboss green and it is currently drying after applying biel tan green... i already got green onto the amor which is annoying.

Lessons learned:

1. do sub assemblies with the rest of the brutes
2. It is actually looking better than i thought it might and my hands are shaking a lot less than i thought

911b2cff6849a21d94b693b3b252097c.jpg552540191d02eaafe43f10b118ce04a3.jpg77fcabd90382f7001077945bb41ab473.jpg63f6a6d67b7249504b780c9dc4d4d5f6.jpg

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Ladz here is an update. I basecoated with white spray... think i might have been too close to the model it looked a bit too thick. Then i applied a base of waagh flesh, then a layer of warboss green and it is currently drying after applying biel tan green... i already got green onto the amor which is annoying.

Lessons learned:

1. do sub assemblies with the rest of the brutes
2. It is actually looking better than i thought it might and my hands are shaking a lot less than i thought

911b2cff6849a21d94b693b3b252097c.jpg552540191d02eaafe43f10b118ce04a3.jpg77fcabd90382f7001077945bb41ab473.jpg63f6a6d67b7249504b780c9dc4d4d5f6.jpg

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Nice! You're making progress!

When spray priming, thin coats are the key.

White as a primer can be a challenge, I usually do several thin coats, and then do a slightly thined basecoat layer with ceramite white. (Or multiple with corax white.)

The GW ceramite white is very opaque and can even do a solid job of basing over black primer.

Your primer choice is a personal choice. I like black because anything that is dark ends up being a "shadow".

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3 minutes ago, TheOtherJosh said:

Nice! You're making progress!

When spray priming, thin coats are the key.

White as a primer can be a challenge, I usually do several thin coats, and then do a slightly thined basecoat layer with ceramite white. (Or multiple with corax white.)

The GW ceramite white is very opaque and can even do a solid job of basing over black primer.

Your primer choice is a personal choice. I like black because anything that is dark ends up being a "shadow".

Thanks! I kind of regret that the first model I built was the "boss" unit of the squad rather than a normal Brute. 

Also, does anyone else think that the guys at Warhammer TV use SUPERSIZED models for their tutorials???
xDxD

By the way I picked white as a basecoat because I want the armor to be yellow!

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I too wonder if they use huge models for WH:TV... and then work on upping my painting game.

I use a basecoat of the GW ceramite white over my black primer for areas that I want light colored. (e.g. flames) (or an intermediate color, like Rakarth Flesh ... followed by White Scar or Uluthan Grey)

It allows me to do the black primer, and still have areas of bright colors.

My only exception is when I am doing a model that is almost entirely light colored. (Like my Kairic Acolytes, which use a wash for the skin, and have white kilts.)

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White is a good choice when you're working with bright colours, especially yellow can be a real bother on black primer.

TheOtherJost gave some good advice. Using a lot of primer is a mistake we probably all do in the beginning because we want to get a good coverage but that's not the thing you really want. The primer serves to give the colour a good grip so just take it easy and put a light layer on it and that will be enough. I would recommend you to do it while you have mild temperatures outside, too hot or too cold can worsen your results with spray can primer.

 

Anyway this hobby combines a lot of handicraft skills and those take a lot of practice, for a first timer you're doing great and you're already learning from your mistakes and things that didn't turn out as well as you'd have liked. Keep up the good work and keep us updated.

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A small advice for priming with a rattle can: just use short and light bursts of paint so you can keep control over the amount of paint you apply. Good old Duncan's catchphrase applies here too: multiple thin coats.

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A small advice for priming with a rattle can: just use short and light bursts of paint so you can keep control over the amount of paint you apply. Good old Duncan's catchphrase applies here too: multiple thin coats.

 

That reminded me of another couple priming tips when using rattlecan primers:

 

Getting the primer ready:

Think of the ball bearing in the can as a stirring stick. Shaking the can up and down just plunges the "stick" up and down in the paint and doesn't mix it well.

 

The best method for readying your primer can (that I've found) is to swirl the ball bearing in the can along the bottom of the bottom of the can (using a circular motion) for 30 seconds. Then flip the can so you're holding it upside-down and swirl the ball bearing on the upside-down can for another 30 seconds.

 

Make sure the can is warm. Not cold. (At least ~65-70 Fahrenheit [18-21 Celsius]) (note: Never warm the can up on the stove.... or over flame.)

 

Additionally:

Don't prime in direct sunlight. The primer can dry as it hits the model and you get splotchy paint flecks. (Only mad modelers Prime in the mid-day sun?)

 

Prime when it is warm/warmer outside.

 

Avoid priming in really high humidity weather. The primer will often 'fuzz' in really high humidity. (Specifically an issue if it is just shy of misting or damp when priming.) Some colors or primers are more prone to the fuzzing issue. For me, white primers seem to have that as an issue. (Disclaimer: Your mileage may vary.)

 

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@Chillpill - GW actually do an Averland Sunset spraypaint. If you're going for yellow armour I would suggest this is a must for saving time and getting a nice solid, smooth basecoat.

When it comes to sub assemblies, a lot of people swear by them, but I didn't use them at all in my Ironjawz and didn't encounter any problems whatsoever.

I guess it's whatever works for you best :) 

Nice to see you progressing and enjoying the hobby.

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13 minutes ago, Chris Tomlin said:

When it comes to sub assemblies, a lot of people swear by them, but I didn't use them at all in my Ironjawz and didn't encounter any problems whatsoever.

Heresy!

To be honest for Brutes sub assemblies are awesome because of the chestplate, it's hard to paint the skin under it and yeah you can see this damn skin when you look from above. But this topic is one of those where you can say "to each their own".

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I Prime black mostly because I am of the camp where "if my Brush can't reach it, you can't see it"

Sub assembly can be useful, but if you paint inside out ( from the layer lowest, i.e. Skin, to highest , i.e. Armor) it accounts for itself.

But, we are all being Paint geeks.

... I'm just excited to see the progress of the models!

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Some more progress tonight. I gave the skin a layer of warboss green after the wash had dried and then tried to highlight the edges with skarsnik green... it is not a disaster but i am sure i cam do better next time. Really think i caked too much corax white spray onto the model. Then i painted some of the dents in the armor red... results are mixed my hands were not quite steady enough and my technique needs a lot more work too. Again the basecoat being too thick made it hard to actuallu spot these dents properly.

Then i started to paint the armor in yriel yellow with two coats and afterwards washed the recesses with a mix of seraphin sepia and lahmian medium.

Currently waiting for the model to try before i will attempt to highlight parts of the armor with screaming skull8068b84bfab643369784b828beab8063.jpg9acff58f788d6e2c57d59f49a483f08a.jpg5da87c5e61367014bd3d3f9bfdab4df7.jpgc9dd40e0b83cec7760a4ce73c1cf9b05.jpg18ff6a9197d82d0636008dfec0e93f92.jpg

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Looking solid. I know that Hand stabilization when painting details can be a challenge.

What helps me with steadying my hands is to put both elbows on the desk, (making sure your painting surface is at a comfortable height for the elbows on the desk) holding the miniature in my non-brush hand, and press the heels of my palms together.

That steadies the hands when holding the brush and painting the miniature.

That leaves fingers free for the painting.

Most importantly is to have both the brush hand and the model hand touching to keep them from moving independently.

From a hi-lighting perspective, I might recommend flash gitz yellow as your "next step up" before going all the way to white.

Alternately:
Averland Sunset Base
Apply Cassandora yellow for shading
Hi light with Yriel Yellow
Edge hilight with Flash Gitz Yellow

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That's a good strong shade of yellow, a notoriously difficult colour to paint and one that I have not attempted!

Not sure if you are doing this already, but one thing that I found that helped me keep my hand steady was attaching the miniature to something larger that fit the resting size of my hand better. In my case I use the top of an aerosol, with blue tac on the lid holding the model in place. Because you're not having to grip the model as tightly, you're putting less strain through your hand and shaking less. 

Keep it up!

 

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I would use a cork for it. Just glue the model on it with a little super glue so you can remove it easily. Makes finishing the actual base of your model easier too because you dont have to worry about spilling paint on your already painted model.

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I would use a cork for it. Just glue the model on it with a little super glue so you can remove it easily. Makes finishing the actual base of your model easier too because you dont have to worry about spilling paint on your already painted model.


If you don't want to glue it, stick it to the cork (or the top of an empty paint pot) with some Blu-tack. ( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack )
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Another update. Unfortunately things kind of fell apart for me today. I think i started rushing, picked wrong colours and maybe was too ambitious in trying go follow the warhammer tv tutorial too much (still convinced they use supersized minis for their videos!! [emoji19])

I did various things such as paint the pants, boots, weapons, belt etc.

Not very happy with the results but will file this one under practice/ lessons learned. [emoji58]

Not quite sure what to do with the severed head and its hair...2dc0c63e6c0945e9b2db71ad0c2c8407.jpg67bbd545cb59a93fa32cdbaf632e8b6c.jpg845d1cf73c14e0208b3ead234e5badcf.jpg

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For the head I would for for Rakarth Flesh, a wash of Reikland Fleshshade and some Kislev Flesh for the highlights. For the hair it would be black (good contrast to the rest of the model) with an eshin grey or skavenblight highlight.

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