Soulsmith Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 You can get regular grease proof and boil it. The wax melts off and it becomes parchment paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 No light box yet! In spirit of WiP Wednesday I've base coated and washed these guys... (well partially) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 I've now finished my Bloodbound Reavers to a standard I am happy with. I've spent longer than you'd think on them and was getting bored, so rushed the final finish. Not going to paint 20 of anything else in one go because procrastination kicks in at the effort. I'm going to finish the 9 i've got left from the starter set (Mighty Lord of Khorne, Bloodsecrator, Bloodstoker, Khorgorath, and the Blood Warriors) and then move on to Ironjaws (I may get the Orc BB team before that). I've based the other Khorne red so far but they need another coat. I've learnt a few things this time: - Agrellan Earth is terrible - couldn't get it to stick (bought it when it first came out though - bad batch/bad formula/old?) - If you can base with spray it saves loads of time. Will do in the future. - Be more delicate with brushes - L/M Base brushes are already knackered - More is more I know nothing about colour theory - i'm painting by numbers a bit at the mo (aka using GW chart etc) - want to learn a bit more about how to colour more effectively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordova Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 They look good With regard to Agrellan Earth, I believe there were issues with the first batch, as it didn't want to crack, if I remember correctly (I haven't used it - I tend to use Vallejo's pumice basing product due to cost). If your brushes are getting sad, don't throw them out - once they become not worth using for their original purpose, they can be used on things which are unkind to brushes, e.g. as a drybrush, or painting rough surfaces, such as bases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Thanks. I have to complete a project before moving onto the next so i'm just trying to get stuff done to a TT standard. The agrellan earth issue I had wasn't the cracking. It was that is just wanted to flake off - absolutely zero adhesion to the base. I've seen some say about basecoating the base before application, which I didn't do. But i've also seen others saying it wasn't necessary. it wasn't a tiny bit flaky - you could practically blow it off. Hopefully, it was a formular issue or i'd let it sit too long. Thanks for the tip on brushes. I've either not given them the TLC they deserve or i'm doing something wrong because i've wrecked them. I think sometimes it's the eagerness to basecoat and trying to ram a M brush into the crevices! I've probably not cleaned them as well as I could. Any tips on good but quick cleaning would be appreciated. Just using warp tap water and fingers at the mo. In terms of painting, i've put second basecoat on the Blood Warriors. Made a slight error and did missed areas in Khorne Red instead of Mephiston Red, but sorted that out. Then done a fairly heavy purple wash to emphasise the recesses. I think i've gone too light on the washes in the past. Also, i've used the wet palette less recently. Think it's better for detail work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Praecautus Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Get some brush soap, it will keep your brushes happier for longer. Change the water a couple of times and make sure to clean the brushes during the session. clean properly at the end and keep the plastic tube on them. I practically eat m base brushes. My old ones I keep for large areas, priming, mixing paint, dry brushing and then glue (in increasing order of brokenness). Metal paints are brush wreckers in my experience, so clean well when painting in metal, I even quarantine my best brushes away from metal paint for a while. For bases I base coat on dryad bark then let it dry. Good thick coat of agrellan earth then put in a warm place for 24 hours. When dry mix Cassandra yellow with lamian medium and wash it on, helps it stick well. You can dry brush tyrant skull to add some sandy effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordova Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 10 hours ago, Rob P said: The agrellan earth issue I had wasn't the cracking. It was that is just wanted to flake off - absolutely zero adhesion to the base. I've seen some say about basecoating the base before application, which I didn't do. But i've also seen others saying it wasn't necessary. Ah, that's not one I've heard of, but I would advocate basecoating the bases, if only because you can then control the colour showing through (personally, I would advocate a near-black dark brown). If it misbehaves, a brush-on varnish might help it stay put - Vallejo do some brush-on/airbrush varnishes, which are about £2 for a 17ml pot (I'd suggest the Model Air range, as they can be painted or sprayed) - if it works, I'd advocate finding a way of spraying it (e.g. airbrush). Varnishing them would also help protect against chipping. 10 hours ago, Rob P said: Thanks for the tip on brushes. I've either not given them the TLC they deserve or i'm doing something wrong because i've wrecked them. I think sometimes it's the eagerness to basecoat and trying to ram a M brush into the crevices! I've probably not cleaned them as well as I could. Any tips on good but quick cleaning would be appreciated. Just using warp tap water and fingers at the mo. For cleaning them, as Praecautus said, you want to be rinsing them out at regular intervals to stop the paint drying on the bristles (just swirling them in your water pot would be fine). After each painting session, I would recommend using some form of brush cleaner to make sure they're clean. Personally, I use "The Masters" brush soap, which is about £8 for a 75ml "cake", although Marseilles soap (olive oil soap) works well too (you might want to look at an artist's supply shop for these*). If you're using synthetic brushes, then you could also use a liquid cleaner (e.g. Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner - available in a 500ml tub that'll last a lifetime) - it would simply be a case of suspending them above a bath of the cleaning agent, and leaving them over night, then rinsing them out (you can re-use the cleaner, btw). Just to be clear, natural hair brushes shouldn't be left to soak as it can promote splitting, and they may well need to be "pointed" afterwards (coated in brush soap, drawn to a point, left with the dried soap on them for at least a few days to "train" the bristles), but it can be done as a method of last resort to try to revive a brush. * I can recommend Ken Bromley Art Supplies, Grantham's Art Discount, and Jackson's Art Supplies. 10 hours ago, Rob P said: Also, i've used the wet palette less recently. Think it's better for detail work. You might find yourself reaching for it in the summer, when it takes paint about 30s to try onto the palette! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 Thanks guys. I've ordered a big ol' pot of The Masters. Once it's arrived i'll give it a go. I've now based the Blood Warriors red and gone a little heavier on the wash (druchii violet). I've decided to go bone instead of bronze for the armour. I've only done a coat of zandri dust on one so far, but I think it looks like it will be effective. It feels a little like it will need another colour to have impact, but i'm honestly getting bored with them so we'll see about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Very early days, but I had a 20 minute fiddle with milliput last night followed by a 20 minute fiddle with green stuff. I'm currently preferring milliput to work with but i'm sure green stuff will be better in the long run. The issue i've had with the green stuff is that it has the consistency of a left-in-the-sun Refresher bar. Whilst milliputt is like fondant. I tried making a cape out of green stuff just to see how it went when cured and I screwed up by leaving it on something that it could stick to. However, (and I appreciate that it probably didn't look very good) I felt that it actually looked very decent for very little effort. On the other hand, I was struggling with it as a filler (it wanted to stretch whilst I wanted something nearer to a paste) and as something to craft things with. I have grabbed some paperclips and will try again with it re crafting. I found the milliput to be better for the things I tried. I used it to fill out the underside of a base of a poorly balanced Prosecutor. I also used it as support material in teh gaps on some terrain (i.e. on the underside of the throne of the Magewrath Throne). I've also made a 'tiny' (i.e. would fit on a dreadnought!) Raven Guard style bird skull. It probably looks terrible - will post picture at some point - but it's more of having a go than the result at this point. I can already see that milliput would be rubbish for tiny things because of it's consistency and that the weight of it will damage models in the long run. Hence, why I will try harder with the green stuff. Am I right in thinking that the green stuff cures to a relatively ridgid rubber consistency? That's how the cape felt before I chucked it (about 3 hours after making it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob P Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 OK, here the milliput 'bird' skull and the latest project. Waiting for gs on terrain to cure so I can file and prime. Also made a concept skaven marker. Plenty of finger prints on it plus it's sunk a little, but think it'll look OK once painted for first go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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