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The Painting Contract - October 2017


TheOtherJosh

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Super Glue versus Plastic Cement, fight!

Advantage for Super Glue:

  • Can affix almost any surface to another (Plastic Cement only works on certain plastics)
  • Sets up quicker than Plastic Cement
  • Can usually be used with an accelerator for faster curing and drying time (nothing like this for Plastic Cement that I am aware of)
  • Can make some cool Nurgle-y effects when dripped onto PVA glue (try it some times, it's really cool!)
  • Can be dissolved with acetone (BUT ONLY ON PEWTER MODELS OR THEY WILL MELT)
  • Won't melt paint jobs (usually)

Advantages for Plastic Cement:

  • Gives more play in time to set pieces together, handy for wonky or poor fitting joints or kitbashes/conversions (Super Glue is nearly instant)
  • "Welds" the joints togehter, effectively making one piece out of two
  • Does not stick to your fingers and doesn't get things stuck to you (my personal favorite reason right here!)
  • Usually easier to apply to smaller pieces with smaller applicator tips on the bottles
  • Can cut through thin paint layers to bond painted pieces together (Super Glue only bonds the surfaces, making pre-painted joints weak).
  • I don't have to buy a new bottle/tube of Plastic Cement every year because it goes bad.  I find that Super Glue, once opened, will only last about a year on me before it loses effectiveness and stops working, and take a lot longer to cure.  Is it just me?

This is all in my experience, anyways.  I can't stand using Super Glue at all anymore, and try to stick with plastic models and armies as much as possible.  It's one of the biggest reasons why GW is my favorite miniatures company (Privateer Press can learn a lot from GW ;)).

My poor fingertips....  they ache just at the memory of ripped flesh and the tingly Super Glue burn.

1 hour ago, TheOtherJosh said:

I cant talk to the quality of the old GW plastic glue, as there have been many formulations for glue, but I do know that some "kid safe" plastic glues (which typically smelled like citrus) were better for "safety" than from a gluing standpoint. (At least they were non toxic if eaten.)

Like everything in the hobby world your individual experiences may be different from mine :) But superglue for metal and resin and plastic for plastics. (And PVA for clear windshield types to avoid crazing or melting.)

I've been using the non-toxic variety of Testor's Plastic Cement for about two years now and it works just like their regular version, at least to me.  And the fumes are not near as overwhelming as regular Plastic Cement.

And speaking of not melting clear plastic windshields, Testor's makes a plastic cement specifically for those clear plastic windshields.  I haven't used it in nearly two decades, but I still see it on the racks at the hobby shops.

13 minutes ago, spidero said:

I hear blu-taccing over your joins for your sub assembies when you prime works pretty well. Never really used sub assemblies but think i'll be trying it out for Mr Liberator. I think I'd fall into the I am lazy trap when it came to scoring too. 

Silly Putty also works for this really well.  I used Silly Putty to paint on camo lines on my old Imperial Guard tanks back in the day and it worked great!

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3 hours ago, BunkhouseBuster said:
  • Does not stick to your fingers and doesn't get things stuck to you (my personal favorite reason right here!)
  •  

Hahah nuff said ;)

3 hours ago, BunkhouseBuster said:

try to stick with plastic models and armies as much as possible

I feel you but on monday I got the Slaanesh lord on Deamonic mount in the mail. I expected a resin model but man oh man, I was so happy that it turned out to be metal. There is just something in the weight that feels right to me for the heroes. 

 

Thanks for all the responses everybody, when the super glue runs out. I will give plastic glue a second chance. Maybe it, or I, just improved in my 15 year hiatus. We'll see :D 

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35 minutes ago, Kramer said:

There is just something in the weight that feels right to me for the heroes.

I hear you on that one.  Back 7 or 8 years ago, there were still plenty of GW metal models, especially for much of the leader type models.  I too like that heft provided by a pewter model, but I'm not too keen on it once the figure gets much larger than a 40mm base can hold.  My experiences with the old metal Tyranid Hive Tyrants still haunts me...

 

20 minutes ago, Sheriff said:

What's the type of plastic for some models that really really sucks at glueing? It's not the usual dark grey plastic but kind of pale grey. Sucks!

There are some manufacturers that use PVC or other plastics that don't react to regular Plastic Cement.  Privateer Press and Reaper Miniatures come to mind.

Plastic Cement melts down and bonds High Impact PolyStyrene plastic (HIPS).  It's made from the same stuff as Styrofoam and insulation foam(which is why it melts styrofoam on contact, it's working like on the models!).  I'm pretty sure that the melting part of Plastic Cement is also in miniature manufacturers's Spray Primers, which is why it sticks to the plastic models so well (can someone confirm that?).

Are these older GW models?  Sometimes I find old GW plastics have a lighter shade of grey to them, indicating a change in recipe sometime, but they have, to my knowledge, always used HIPS for their plastic kits

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3 minutes ago, BunkhouseBuster said:

Are these older GW models?  Sometimes I find old GW plastics have a lighter shade of grey to them, indicating a change in recipe sometime, but they have, to my knowledge, always used HIPS for their plastic kits

Yes specifically the spiderfang big boss on Giant Spider. It's horrendous. Covered in tiny splints too on the sprue. Super slow to glue and you have to basically sand down the whole model to remove the little splints. 

 

It's the only model I've had to build scaffolding around and leave to glue over night. 

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1 minute ago, Sheriff said:

Yes specifically the spiderfang big boss on Giant Spider. It's horrendous. Covered in tiny splints too on the sprue. Super slow to glue and you have to basically sand down the whole model to remove the little splints.

It took me a second to realize.  Your model is made of Finecast, GW's own resin blend.  It is not made from plastic, so Plastic Cement will not work on them.  You will have to use Super Glue to assemble the model.

There are several tips and tricks to working with resin models, and these tips will also apply to any pewter models you work with:

  • Wash the pieces off when you get them. in warm, soapy water, using an old toothbrush or similar to scrub them.  The models often still have the release agent from the casting process on them (think cooking spray but for model making).  If this is still on the model, glue and paint may not stick to the model.  Additionally, the dust from sanding and scraping the model can also prevent paint and glue from adhering to the model.  I always wait until I am ready to assemble before washing.  And make sure you rinse them really good!
  • Green Stuff is your friend.  Or any other two-part sculpting putty.  I have found that sometimes Super Glue is not enough.  So what I have been doing is taking a small amount of Green Stuff and putting it in the joints of the model during assembly.  Doing that, the Green Stuff helps hold the pieces together while the glue dries and cures really well.
  • Pinning joints together.  This takes skill and caution, but is very useful, and almost required on certain models or joints.  You use a small pinning drill, and use small metal rods (usually brass, but steel paperclips sometimes work) as a reinforcement to help hold the pieces together.  Like how rebar can reinforce concrete, pinning a model increases a model's joint strength.  And not just by being sturdy stuff, but it prevents the joint from moving if jostled or bumped.

Good luck!  Finecast is not the best resin out there.  And believe it or not, it was much worse back when it was first released 5 or 6 years ago.

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 thanks so much for the tips. I'd heard people talk about fine cast but presumed that referred to the normal dark grey plastic that actually works. 

I ended up using pva glue for the model eventually. It seems sturdy now and the primer grey paint seems well applied. We shall see!

I'll buy some of this fancy glue you mention above. Thanks

 

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Assembled the various sections of the arachnarok spider tonight. It's pretty difficult to do the scaffolding sections on top. 

I fear it's for too large and pointy to be transported in the box with the rest of the army. Might need to keep as 2 separate halves and blutack together on the battlefield. 

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1 hour ago, ZeusLeDieu said:

Progress update:

10 Plaguebearers and 1 Nurgling base finished :D

And a bonus Wright King to join the masses.

Sorry for the crappy photos, it doen't do them justice, i'll try better next time.

 

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Oh you are putting me to shame. Haven't touched a brush since my pledge... tomorrow... definitely tomorrow. 

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This month I want to paint;

  • Rogue Idol of Gork / RAW Leviathan using Gorkanaut as base (my long promised model will be on dual purpose duty at my next two events)
  • The Krunksaur (this will be used as my Hunter at RAW...there is a very real chance he will not be completed now though)
  • The Liberators from Shadespire

So just 5 models...unfortunately 2 of them are pretty huge!!

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Still a WIP, but need a banner bearer for my blood warrior starter unit. I don't often convey/kitbash so be nice ?

 

IMG_0408.JPG

 

Starter unit also needs a glaive wielder, this is the start with a simple head swap. I plan to add some spare blood warrior bits to his armour for a bit of detail

 

IMG_0409.JPG

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So the local GW is having their Birthday coming up this month and they’re doing an event with Blood Angels (no AoS.....) and we needed to create and paint up a model to represent our character in the “Blood Games” (not “AoS” but I really am getting stuff painted ... honest!)

Having completely forgotten about it ... I panicked and had to get mine up and painted.... 

So here is my Heavy Support Plasma Gunner Blood Angel Space Marine:

He’s been converted from the Dark Vengeance Plasma Space Marine with bits from the Blood Angel conversion pack.

83EA3EF5-4092-4A6C-90A6-759EB65C43CE.jpeg

 

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(Edit: And Back to Working on the Gaunt Summoner!)

As an aside, the techniques and color schemes were from the new “Citadel Paint App”, and they turned out nicely ... I’ll have to try out the other proposed color schemes and model suggestions for the AoS range as well.

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Not at all what I planned to paint this month but ended up almost finishing this tonight. Pics on this phone always make models look 'sticky' like the paint is glooped on, but this is actually thin paints... 

Also shout out to @Chris Tomlin for recommending that awesome brush cleaning hair wax stuff. 

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And how versatile is Thunderhawk Blue, folks? Let's hear it for Thunderhawk Blue. 

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8 hours ago, Sheriff said:

Also shout out to @Chris Tomlin for recommending that awesome brush cleaning hair wax stuff. 

 

Oh please tell me. I'm still using the soapy stuff I used as a kid and can't make my brushes survive past 3 months and I paint maybe once or twice a week. Iwant to invest in better brushes but that really prevents me from doing so. 

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34 minutes ago, Kramer said:

Oh please tell me. I'm still using the soapy stuff I used as a kid and can't make my brushes survive past 3 months and I paint maybe once or twice a week. Iwant to invest in better brushes but that really prevents me from doing so. 

It's the pot in the picture. Available from Amazon. 

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On 01/10/2017 at 8:20 AM, Charles said:

I pledge to build and paint 8 Blood Warriors and a Bloodsecrator. 

Stretch goal = Build and paint Garrek Gorebeard's 5 Reavers from Shadespire.

Why not make it a little tougher and add a Bloodstoker and 10 more regular Blood Reavers.

Progress update - main pledge completed (pictures below).

I have also started on the 10 additional Reavers and the Bloodstoker. I am challenging myself a little with this batch as I am painting 4 different skin tones to keep things interesting. 

Also I may have over promised on Garrek’s warband I thought I would have my hands on them on the 14th not 21st. If I don’t manage them I will try to make up with more regular Blood Reavers.

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