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Gore Grunta gap filling tips?


Banglesprout

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Hey guys! I've been spending my day building my first 3 Gore Gruntas, and so far I have two thoughts.

1. These guys look sooo awesome!

2. These guys have quite a lot of significant gaps to fill :(

So I was wondering if anyone has any tips for how to fill them?

I'm thinking I'll pick up some liquid green stuff and give that a go - I've used the putty before but never the liquid stuff, which I've heard shrinks a lot when it dries.

Any advice on using it? Or tips on alternative if liquid greenstuff isn't the answer?

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The gaps I'm most aware of are on the boar's head e.g. you can see the lower lip in the photo below. 

I did make sure to use the same numbered parts as the instructions, they just don't seem to fit together quite seemlessly.

I have filled some of them in with ordinary green stuff, but I thought the liquid might be easier to work with for small fight gap filling?

IMG_20170909_230233.jpg

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Yea, those gaps are worth doing something to before you prime for sure. I haven't had much luck with using Liquid green stuff, but use normal green stuff for bigger gaps.

Though on plastic models like the Grunta, you can also consider simply using (extra) plastic glue to fill gaps, as it fuses the two parts together. I use Revel glue with the needle nose,  and have often done this if I had small gaps or lines of indentations. So if you have something like this, I would recommend you try that out, as you can easily wipe off (wet) /scrape off (dried) any excess that may flow on to an adjacent flat part.

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On ‎10‎/‎09‎/‎2017 at 8:48 AM, Fungrim said:

Use Revell plastic glue (blue bottle yellow tip with metal nozzle) - this stuff partially melts the plastic to form best bond, so if you fill a gap with it it often does wonders 

(Posted at same time as @Spiky Norman ! Absolutely concur)

As @Fungrim and @Spiky Norman said, this is 100% the way to go. I also approve of the specific product Fungrim mentioned. You can buy it here;

http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/revell/glue/revell-contacta-25g?d=10210

This does the exact job you want when it comes to building Gore-gruntas...and I should know!! ;) 

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1 hour ago, Chris Tomlin said:

As @Fungrim and @Spiky Norman said, this is 100% the way to go. I also approve of the specific product Fungrim mentioned. You can buy it here;

http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/revell/glue/revell-contacta-25g?d=10210

This does the exact job you want when it comes to building Gore-gruntas...and I should know!! ;) 

Should also add, if you do get this, and you're silly enough to lose the nozzle cover like I tend to... it's handy to keep a lighter around! Metal nozzle needs evacuating sometimes

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1 hour ago, Fungrim said:

Should also add, if you do get this, and you're silly enough to lose the nozzle cover like I tend to... it's handy to keep a lighter around! Metal nozzle needs evacuating sometimes

Yup, this is also something I do. Did a dodgy one handed video of it for a Twitter hobby tip video!

Pro tip; remove the metal nozzle from the container before lighting it up.

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25 minutes ago, Chris Tomlin said:

Yup, this is also something I do. Did a dodgy one handed video of it for a Twitter hobby tip video!

Pro tip; remove the metal nozzle from the container before lighting it up.

I remember you saying that! It was probably you I stole the lighter thing from to be fair...

I think before that I used to just pull the nozzle out and struggle dabbing it on carefully from the yellow bit  xD

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Great advice, thanks guys! 

So I chose to both heed and ignore you all.. by buying both a bottle of liquid green stuff *and* plastic glue with the nozzle. :D

I wanted give LGS a go.. and I too can confirm that it does virtually nothing after one or two passes..

The plastic glue with nozzle is great for fusing together parts, particularly if you're happy with there being a visible indentation, as long as it's not a gap.

I think if you want more control over the texture of the filling, or you want a seemless filling then putty green stuff is really the only answer.

Anyway the grunters are all done, now just to paint the buggers ?

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I think for deep gaps, a proper putty is the best option.  I'm a big fan of Magic Sculp, it's not as elastic as green stuff but dries more solid and is easier to manipulate (it's more like milliput), I've been using it to fill the gaps where Ogor arms join with great success.  Of course there's also nothing stopping you using plastic glue to "fill" the gap and then just topping up the surface with putty or liquid green stuff (a bit like using No Nails to fill a hole in a wall before you Polyfilla over the top)

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2 hours ago, Banglesprout said:

Great advice, thanks guys! 

So I chose to both heed and ignore you all.. by buying both a bottle of liquid green stuff *and* plastic glue with the nozzle. :D

I wanted give LGS a go.. and I too can confirm that it does virtually nothing after one or two passes..

I never actually responded to your LGS question as I got so excited about Revell....

I've had fairly limited experience with LGS, but it's been 50/50. Biggest obstacle is picking you sculpting tool - obviously you don't want to be using the same tools as normal GS. I picked up some rubber-tipped clay craft tools from The Works (are you UK based??) for super cheap, and they're invaluable for all types of GS work.

To be honest, I gave up on LGS as the 3 tubs I bought over a 12-month period barely lasted a week or 2 each before firming up and becoming mildly useless. I've since returned to good old fashioned GS (cheap Kneadite from eBay is perfectly fine) - I find soft GS can do most things that LGS can do, and if I want it any runnier, I'll use Revell.

Have to say though, 99% of the time nowadays I don't need to fill cracks, the Revell sorts it all whilst I'm doing the initial building. 

 

As you say though you've picked both up and the only way is trial and error! Glad to hear your Gruntas are ready to paint... welcome to your new nightmare....

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7 hours ago, Banglesprout said:

[...]

The plastic glue with nozzle is great for fusing together parts, particularly if you're happy with there being a visible indentation, as long as it's not a gap.

[...]

If you have an indentation where you fused two parts together, you can easily go and pour more glue on it to level it out. Once it's dry you can sand or simply scrape your hobby knife across it to smooth it out completely. I use glue to both fuse, fill smaller gaps and level out indentations like what you mention. :-)

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19 hours ago, Spiky Norman said:

If you have an indentation where you fused two parts together, you can easily go and pour more glue on it to level it out. Once it's dry you can sand or simply scrape your hobby knife across it to smooth it out completely. I use glue to both fuse, fill smaller gaps and level out indentations like what you mention. :-)

Yeh this is a great tip and is invaluable with the newer style of plastic GW kits. I used to hate plastic glue, but nowadays it's all you need for basic GW model assembly (other than a mouldline cleaning device of course). Can get completely seamless joins with relative ease.

23 hours ago, Fungrim said:

Glad to hear your Gruntas are ready to paint... welcome to your new nightmare....

xD .... Funny because it's true! :S 

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