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A dark wind brews in the east


Kugane

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I put together some Black Knights/Skeleton Horsemen (I figured I could use them as either), combining as brainstormed. I gave them the buckler shields as a Jingasa helmet as I said in a previous post. This could be used as a "counts-as" shield. I may print out some history facts about round shields being worn as helmets in Japan and used as a shield when necessary.

 

I'll need to add some green stuff, clean up the models and add some details, but this is the progress so far:

TK7.jpg.031661cb436c359e5a3c1f5e9be120ed.jpg

I will paint the balls on the "shields" green to represent jade stones.

Also added a few coats of paint to the Mortarch:

TK6.JPG.cbbc8972eee1aa17bada39022a66c11a.JPG

5 hours ago, Seraphage said:

Man.. talking about some unique army. This is a wonderful idea and truly inspiring

Thank you very much! :)

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On 31/7/2017 at 0:31 AM, Kugane said:

Started working on a Royal Warsphinx now. It was a huge mistake to glue the head in place, I underestimated reaching the inside of the hood. I'm still thinking wether I'll use the stock basket on top, or if I'll build something more oriental with plasticard such as a small shrine. I tried creating a marble effect on the body. The head will need a few more washes and I can start working on some details soon.

597e4f65cd91f_TK5(1).jpg.f18307bd6574136200fe51dd29a8b967.jpg

 

By the way I cannot even begin to describe how much I like this piece of art. While I won't even get any close to this, may I ask what combination of colors / techniques I should try for such a magnificence ?

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1 hour ago, Seraphage said:

By the way I cannot even begin to describe how much I like this piece of art. While I won't even get any close to this, may I ask what combination of colors / techniques I should try for such a magnificence ?

That one is quite easy to paint. The way I painted it is like this:

1. prime black (Imperial Primer)

2. I coat all the metal bits with Leadbelcher and coat all the green bits with Caliban green.

3. Next I put some Warpstone Glow (don't thin it with water for this step) on a pallet and take the largest brush I have available (I use an XL base brush from GW), dip it into the paint and brush it out on the pallet until there is hardly any paint left on the brush. When you do a stroke, it should only leave a trace of paint "dots", if you know what I mean. I start 'stabbing' the miniature all over the green surface mixed with some overbrushing here and there on raised areas until it is a total mess of random Warpstone Glow 'clouds'. The miniature will look horrible at this step - it is meant to. For this step, don't worry too much if you hit some of the edges of the metal. You can fix that later.

4. I take a drybrush and some Moot Green, make sure there is as little moot green on your brush as possible, and slowly start building layers by drybrushing all the clouded Warpstone Glow areas. You want the Moot green to hardly get off your brush, so you can create a very natural flow and control where you want to increase the ammount of moot green and where you do not. This will also reduce the hard lines between the calliban green and Warpstone glow are merged together a little.

5. Take a detail brush and pick out the details like the lines of silver at the sphinx's belly with Leadbelcher and fix some of the silver areas you may have hit while drybrushing or going on the Warpstone Glow rampage.

6. Wash all the green areas with Coelia greenshade and all the metal with Nuln Oil. I personally wash the silver details on the green body with coelia as well. This should glaze and blend the hardlines between the 3 previous colours almost entirely.

7. Take some more moot green on your pallet and lightly dry brush the lighter areas a bit more, as well as lightly drybrush the silver areas with a bit of leadbelcher (or a lighter silver if you prefer. I wanted the metal to stay quite dark for contrast with the sphinx).

After that you are pretty much done with it. I personally feel that when you paint the sphinx and want this effect, its best to not think too much about where you want to put the paint, especially the Warpstone Glow step, and just aggressively get it on there. If you are having issues recreating this effect, I can create a step by step guide with pictures sometime in the coming weeks.

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4 hours ago, G.Prest said:

My favorite army on this site. Definitely look forward to seeing it in my daily digest from the site.

And can't wait to see it with paint.

Thank you very much! :) I am quite happy to hear so^^. I'll do my best to get more pieces done!

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On 10/8/2017 at 4:14 PM, Kugane said:

That one is quite easy to paint. The way I painted it is like this:

1. prime black (Imperial Primer)

2. I coat all the metal bits with Leadbelcher and coat all the green bits with Caliban green.

3. Next I put some Warpstone Glow (don't thin it with water for this step) on a pallet and take the largest brush I have available (I use an XL base brush from GW), dip it into the paint and brush it out on the pallet until there is hardly any paint left on the brush. When you do a stroke, it should only leave a trace of paint "dots", if you know what I mean. I start 'stabbing' the miniature all over the green surface mixed with some overbrushing here and there on raised areas until it is a total mess of random Warpstone Glow 'clouds'. The miniature will look horrible at this step - it is meant to. For this step, don't worry too much if you hit some of the edges of the metal. You can fix that later.

4. I take a drybrush and some Moot Green, make sure there is as little moot green on your brush as possible, and slowly start building layers by drybrushing all the clouded Warpstone Glow areas. You want the Moot green to hardly get off your brush, so you can create a very natural flow and control where you want to increase the ammount of moot green and where you do not. This will also reduce the hard lines between the calliban green and Warpstone glow are merged together a little.

5. Take a detail brush and pick out the details like the lines of silver at the sphinx's belly with Leadbelcher and fix some of the silver areas you may have hit while drybrushing or going on the Warpstone Glow rampage.

6. Wash all the green areas with Coelia greenshade and all the metal with Nuln Oil. I personally wash the silver details on the green body with coelia as well. This should glaze and blend the hardlines between the 3 previous colours almost entirely.

7. Take some more moot green on your pallet and lightly dry brush the lighter areas a bit more, as well as lightly drybrush the silver areas with a bit of leadbelcher (or a lighter silver if you prefer. I wanted the metal to stay quite dark for contrast with the sphinx).

After that you are pretty much done with it. I personally feel that when you paint the sphinx and want this effect, its best to not think too much about where you want to put the paint, especially the Warpstone Glow step, and just aggressively get it on there. If you are having issues recreating this effect, I can create a step by step guide with pictures sometime in the coming weeks.

Thank you so much for sharing the wisdom man !

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On 11-8-2017 at 2:25 PM, Seraphage said:

Thank you so much for sharing the wisdom man !

I would hardly call it wisdom! Dez told me this colour combination ages ago and I've been putting it to good use :). I also tried Game color fluor green, its quite bright, but the paint is rather thick and sticky. I sometimes use it as a bit of a glaze mixed with lahmian medium if my models turn out a bit darker than I hoped.

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I have been busy today trying to make my Mortis Engine fit in with the rest. I decided to make the main 3 riders samurai. The armour may not be typical japanese, but I think the helmets and back banners give plenty of a samurai vibe to them. I also turned the cage on the engine into a shrine of sorts. I am planning to order some more katana bits to replace most the swords on the model with Katanas. I am wondering to add more detail to the roof of the shrine, but there will be banshees swirling around it, so I am still thinking if its necessary.

 

5993240ef3741_TK9(1).JPG.0a4a94f9a4e8fd274aa16b5bf36197c0.JPG599324431a6d4_TK9(2).JPG.6dd7534c78b044f2d4520e966e85d856.JPG59932444c9565_TK9(3).JPG.da5efb5e587dfe8d0ea923f651511171.JPG

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10 hours ago, Lysandestolpe said:

Yes!! those few blocks to make the roof is brilliant. Talk about achieving great feeling super easy and quickly. Great job dude!

Thank you! It is quite difficult to not get carried away converting. I try my best to keep the conversions simple. It is far too easy to get carried away and end up with the army not looking like it belongs in the Warhammer universe anymore. Still thinking how to add the banshees. I'm now busy trying to fix the dresses of the banshees to look like kimonos instead.

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13 hours ago, WSDdeloach said:

Where'd you get a lot of your bits from? It's amazing!

Which ones specifically are you looking for? :) Lots of them I make myself by green stuffing or modifying games-workshop bits, but I also use some bits from other ranges as well. Back banners are either skaven or from kensei. Samurai heads on the mortis engine are from the Test of Honor game, katanas from puppetswar. Everything else is GW.

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44 minutes ago, Kronos said:

Wowzers, these are cool, great jade colours, the mortis engine wins it though, subtle changes that really that tie it to the theme.

Thank you very much! :) Now to find a way to actually fit these things into a 2k army. Hopefully the new handbook allows for more bigger units on the field.

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